Colour... A deep, dark, brilliant ruby. Part 1

A deep, dark, brilliant ruby...

Was the predominant appearance note for the wines I gravitated towards at the BC Wine Institutes's annual Fall VQA tasting event, Colour. Ripe, intriguing and world class Cabernets and blends from the 2009 vintage caught my attention early and became my focus for the rest of the afternoon.

Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon is a tough grape to ripen in BC, but a few producers can produce excellent cool-climate versions in most years. With the hot 2009 vintage, the field was widened to include a few more participants who managed to avoid the damage of an early frost in October. When it's ripe, it's right! These are soooo right!

Church and State 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$35 14.5% 300 cases
Available in early October. Coyote Bowl vineyard. Juicy, ripe and very accessible. Perhaps, not the cellar dweller of my other Cabernet recommendations but an excellent wine in its own right.

Fairview Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$40 14.7% 160 cases
Sold-out at the winery. The 2009 vintage yielded the best Cabernet grapes from Bill Eggert's home vineyard in many years. So pleased was he with the results that a true Reserve level Cab will be coming out in future years, thus, the production is way down on his "normal" Cab. Fairview fans, of course, know it's anything but normal. Massive tannins with this one requiring 3+ years of bottle age.

Fairview Cellars 2009 The Wrath
$65 14.6% 250 cases
Available now. Wow was my first and nearly only note as my brain was too distracted by this incredible wine which offers an ultra-ripe and concentrated palate and smoky, sexed-up nose. Priced for collectors at $65 but oh-so worth the price.

Painted Rock 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$40 14.5% 150 cases
Not yet released. Rivals the Fairview Cabernet's ripeness and concentration but eclipses everyone with a dazzling display of complexity and depth. By far, the winery's best yet.

SpierHead 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$33 13.6% 210 cases
Available now. More fruit forward than the others listed here. Lower alcohol and a touch more residual sugar create a softer expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that is ready to drink now.
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Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc has become the latest front-runner in the race to become BC's signature grape - well, red grape anyway. By no means is this an official event that wineries are actively participating in - it's completely made-up by the wine media in order to help define to the world what makes BC's various wine producing regions unique. Yet, the quality on display at Colour does suggest a growing love affair with the lesser-know Bordeaux varietal both within the industry and with consumers. So, maybe we finally have a winner?

Cassini Cellars 2009 Reserve Cabernet Franc
$40 (est) 14.8%
Not yet released. The South Okanagan has a new Cab Franc powerhouse with the release of Cassini's first single varietal offering of the aromatic grape. Displays good typicity for BC Cab Franc with a new level of concentration and power. One to watch out for.

Church and State 2009 Cabernet Franc
$35 14.5% 300 cases
Available in early October. Only produced in exceptional years

SpierHead 2009 Cabernet Franc
$30 13.5% 71 cases
Available now. Follows house style of soft, elegant and drinkable now. Comes off like a cheeky Pinot Noir with med body and a watery, smoky texture. Good minerality.

Sumac Ridge 2009 Black Sage Bench Cabernet Franc
$20 13.5%
Available now. Easy going, typical and well-priced.

Tinhorn Creek 2009 Cabernet Franc
$20 148%
Available now. Early candidate for value wine of the year. 2009 was a banner year for the Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc with offers delicious, ripe dark fruit matched with thick, savoury dark chocolate, spice and oak characters.
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 -  Liam Carrier ©copyright 2011 IconWines.ca

Go to Part 2 Meritage Blends and The Rest

Bordeaux 2008: Futures VS. Liquor Board

The ordering of Bordeaux Futures, the practice of purchasing wine still in barrel and two years prior to release, gives one a limited, yet, intriguing insight into the complex and sometimes comical world of government regulations imposed on liquor and wine procurement in the province of British Columbia.

There are no guarantees when purchasing Futures. The wine, which, unless you're an international critic or a diligent wine merchant, you've never tasted, is bought and paid for based on the tasting notes of others or with a collection in mind. Some may say for "investment", but since it's illegal for consumers in BC to resell their collections, any investment "worth" is essentially, incalculable.

When you receive your wine you won't know if it's as good as advertised until you actually open and try a bottle, which for some wines will be unlikely for many years, if ever, due to the collectible nature of Bordeaux and the personal (or perceived) sense of pride that accompanies a collection of any kind.

It's a game. A fun game for some, which should be treated with the same degree (or lack there of) of importance associated to any elective pastime.

If, it's a game as I've suggested, then with whom are you competing? The BC Liquor Distribution Board. Which, with their formidable size (bureaucracy) and unpredictable moves (right to change prices on a whim), provides a worthy opponent.

How did Futures fare in 2008? You be the judge.

We purchased the following wines via Marquis Wine Cellars' annual Bordeaux Futures offering. First amount is the Futures price from Marquis and the (bracketed) figure is the current BCLDB price as part of this weekend's release event.

Château Calon-Segur $90 ($78)
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou $200 ($199)
Château Leoville-Barton $100 ($98)
Château Montrose $150 ($159)
Château Pavie Macquin $95 ($98)
Château Pontet-Canet $140 ($188)
Vieux Château Certan $130 ($150)

Where we scored highest in 2008 was with the Pontet-Canet and the VCC whose brands have both risen dramatically in recent years and for which the current price could be attributable. As I said above, there are no guarantees.

Did we destroy our opponent? No. Worth a victory lap? No, but I do feel like a winner for 2008 and I've enjoyed playing the game. How will 2009 and 2010 go? It's anybody's guess.
  -  Liam Carrier ©copyright 2011 IconWines.ca

BC Wine Deal: September 22nd, 2011

The following wines have been reduced in price at participating VQA wine shops and BCLDB stores. Some reductions are due to new vintages being released soon and others are simply to help move stock.

Cedar Creek Ehrenfelser was $18.90 is now $17.90
Clos du Soleil Signature Red was $38.92 is now $36.90
Le Vieux Pin Petit Rouge was $24.00 is now $20.90
Prospect Shiraz was $16.99 is now $15.99
Prospect Chardonnay was $12.99 is now $11.99
Fork in the Road White was $17.99 is now $15.99
Rigamarole Rose was $14.99 is now $12.99
White Bear Sauvignon Blanc was $13.99 is now $12.99