Thursday, December 19, 2019

Featured Wines: Season's Rieslings

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).




Season's Rieslings


Hi Everyone!

**A Quick Word From Your Holiday Turkey**

Gobble, everyone! Hope you’re having a gobbly-great holiday season! I’m not particularly, I’m sitting in your freezer waiting to be baked and eaten, but no hard feelings – Gobble knows if I were bigger than you and had thumbs and could recognize my own reflection, well, y’all would be on my plate too. Before all that happens, though, I’d like to ask a question that me and the other Turkeys in the yard have been wondering:

Why don’t you drink Riesling with me?

Whether it’s dry or sweet, Riesling pairs with me and my fixin’s, like gravy, stuffing and cranberry sauce, in fact it’s one of the only wines that can check all of those boxes. The fruit balances the saline notes and the tartaric acid cuts through the fat. It’s so perfect it’s almost like turkeys invented it (except we woulda called it Gobble), but every Christmas y’all show up with Apothic and J. Lohr and the like… I’d shake my head disapprovingly if my neck weren’t, you know, right over there.

Riesling, folks. It’s really quite gobble.

**A Quick Word From Your Christmas Ham**

Oink, folks. I don’t often agree with my fine feathered friend there, but everything the bird just said about Riesling also applies to me. Baked ham and Riesling, guys. It’s oinking delicious.

**I am so sorry, here are some yum Rieslings**

Pegasus Bay, Waipara, New Zealand

I’m very excited to offer these unique and ultra-rare Rieslings – in fact I’m the only retailer in BC to offer these, they were imported at my request. The Donaldson family farms the vineyards in Waipara, north of Christchurch on the South Island, and differ from their Marlborough counterparts by inviting Botrytis into the mix. Often employed in sweet late-harvest and Spätlese/Auslese Rieslings, the Noble Rot concentrates the sugars in the shriveling grapes and increases phenolics, and the Donaldsons render those grapes two ways:

Pegasus Bay “Bel Canto” 2017 Dry Riesling
An electric, statuesque, Botrytis-affected Riesling vinified dry, to an austere 5g/l residual sugar. Ginger, apricot and orange peel on the nose precede a stratified, richly structured body that calls to mind Smaragd Riesling from Wachau, Austria (but with way more fruit weight). The Botrytis adds waxy texture and depth, the acidity is considerable but completely in balance, bolstered by a very slight effervescence that adds the last few volts to the long finish. An altogether new Idea, I’ve never quite tasted anything like it. 95 points Cameron Douglas MS*, 94 points Bob Campbell MW*, 2 6-packs available, $59.98 +tax

Pegasus Bay “Aria” 2016 Late Picked Riesling
Pushes the Pleasure Buttons faster and more frequently than a caffeinated squirrel playing Call of Duty, like someone dunked a plugged-in toaster into a Gold Capsule Auslese. Key Lime pie, jasmine and melons swirl around a lemon-yellow body of sweetness and delight. 50% Botrytis, 83g/l residual, 11% Alcohol, this is powerful, heady stuff, but the shining streak of tartaric acid saves the day and brings a fresh zing to the finish – this pairs with Foie, Crème Brulée and Stilton, not pancakes. Simply gorgeous, drink this and try not to smile, it’s impossible. 95 points Bob Campbell MW, 93 points Robert Parker, 2 6-packs available, $59.98 +tax

August Kesseler “530,3” Riesling Spätlese 2006 Rheingau, Germany
Put simply, this wine is having more fun than you. This wine is eating nougat and you are not. This wine smells like honeyed grapefruit with slate and you don’t. This wine is 13 years old and I truly hope you are not. Exclusive to Everything Wine, this is a perfectly-aged Rheingau Riesling that’s just off-dry enough to be naughty but structured enough to go a further decade if you can wait (you can’t). August Kesseler took over his family’s winery in the ‘70s and has been at the forefront of the qualitative renaissance that the Rheingau region – previously known for jug-filling – has enjoyed over the last few decades. This 2006 is a staff favourite for very good reason. 3 6-packs available, $59.98 +tax

Jim Barry “The Florita” Riesling 2018 Clare Valley, Australia
Built like an arrow, The Florita (means “wee flower”) has always been one of Australia’s Tent Pole Rieslings, showing the bright, linear purity of the Clare Valley, and serving as an antidote to the Barry family’s spine-crushing reds. Brilliant citrus and stones on the nose, business-like and fresh on the palate with a miles-long finish. Decades of cellaring potential, here, it’s like Grand Cru Alsace with blinders on. 96 points James Halliday, 6 bottles available, $71.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!!

*Cameron Douglas MS is New Zealand’s only Master Sommelier, reviews NZ wines more than most, and should have picked a different domain name than camerondouglasms.com. Likewise, Bob Campbell is one of two NZ Masters of Wine, specializes in that country’s wines, and his domain name is fine.

Tuesday, December 17, 2019

2019 Icon Wine of the Year

For 2019 we anoint our first Merlot as the winner of the Icon Wine of the Year award. Honorable mentions go to Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2015 The Creek and to Achaval Ferrer Winery 2017 Malbec for placing in our top 3.







2019 Icon Wine of the Year


Little Engine Wines 2017 Gold Merlot
100% Merlot
$55 - 14.8%
93-94pts


The Little Engine 'Gold Merlot' is an uber-elegant, yet, concentrated and perfectly ripe expression of the Bordeaux variety reminiscent of blending the styles of high-end Sonoma and Napa Valley Merlot. Full bodied, yet, effortless on the palate and approachable in its youth, yet, possessing the structure and 'bones' to age beautifully. Layers of delicate, sweet red fruit and savoury, baking notes grace the feminine nose and super refined, approachable palate. Enjoy now or hold for further development. Drink 2020-2025.
Full Review



Previous Winners


  • 2018 - Black Hills 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2017 - Black Hills 2015 Syrah and Painted Rock 2015 Syrah
  • 2016 - Cassini Cellars 2013 The Aristocrat
  • 2015 - Le Vieux Pin 2012 Équinoxe Syrah
  • 2014 - Painted Rock 2012 Red Icon
  • 2013 Stag's Hollow Winery 2010 Cachet No. 03
  • 2012 - Painted Rock Estate Winery 2011 Chardonnay
  • 2011 - Fairview Cellars 2009 The Wrath
  • 2010 - Stratus Vineyards 2007 Red
  • 2009 - Blackwood Lane Winery 2006 Alliance

Top 10 Icon Wines of the Year

For our Top 10 list we are using a subjective approach taking into account availability, collectability and relevance in the world of wine. All Top 10 Icon Wines of the Year were released within the calendar year in the BC market. Reviews based on barrel samples were excluded.

#1 - Icon Wine of the Year

Little Engine Wines 2017 Gold Merlot - $55
Full bodied, yet, effortless on the palate and approachable in its youth, yet, possessing the structure and 'bones' to age beautifully. Layers of delicate, sweet red fruit and savoury, baking notes grace the feminine nose and super refined, approachable palate.
Full Review








#2

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2015 The Creek
Opening with a perfumed nose of sun-warmed cherries, potpourri, sweet and savoury spices, blueberry compote, hazelnuts and vanilla, this charming, age-worthy wine offers good continuity of flavours with fine, lightly-smoked tannins and tangy, blackberry acidity framing the full-bodied, long-lasting palate. Simply delicious. 
Full Review







#3

Achaval Ferrer Winery 2017 Malbec
This is an uber extracted, smokey, seductress of a Malbec with an intense, aromatic, black fruit'n'incense scented nose and an equally intense, chewy palate with rounded tannins, dense, dark fruit, smokey spices and bright, fresh blackberry acidity. A fantastic wine for BBQ meats or dark chocolate.
Full Review







#4


Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery 2017 Blaufrankisch
Blaufrankisch is a late-ripening, rarely seen grape of Central European origins which produces a spicy, medium-plus bodied wine and, commenting frankly, will never catch on in North America unless it is disguised as part of a proprietary blend thanks to its hard-to-say, unfamiliar name. A shame, really, since it can match the complexity of a G-S-M blend by itself and makes the most out of minimal oak contact.
Full Review






#5

Quails' Gate Estate Winery 2017 Old Vines Foch Reserve
Opens with a nose to dive deep into and stay awhile to explore around a little. You'll discover a seductive blend of Kirsch liqueur, cocoa nibs, sweet salami and the pleasing, familiar notes of Christmas cake with its dried, candied fruit. The dry palate is uber food-friendly with well-balanced acidity, mannered tobacco-leaf tannins and similar notes as the nose. Pair with braised venison or other gamey meats at your next special holiday dinner.
Full Review





#6

River Stone Estate Winery 2016 Corner Stone
A Right Bank inspired composition of 42% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot showcases Oliver-grown fruit in a beautiful way with a harmonious blend of ripe, dark fruit, minty-goodness, light oak, vanilla, savoury herbs and feminine notes of flowers and incense.
Full Review







#7

Painted Rock Estate Winery 2016 Red Icon
This year, a blend of 44% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Malbec combine to showcase the lively, fruitier elements of each varietal with fewer brooding characters than is previous years. Still refined and elegant, as always, with layers of savoury goodness (oak, spice, herbs and a touch of leather) but also cheerful and aromatic, very feminine.
Full Review






#8

Quails' Gate Estate Winery 2017 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay
Oh so elegant and smooth, this French oak kissed Chardonnay is both rich and focused with a full-ish body, juicy peach and nectarine aromas and flavours supported by concentrated minerality on the nose and palate which elevate the balance and structure. A long-lasting finish offers lingering citrus zest, signature macadamia nuts and a hint of exotic spices.
Full Review






#9

SpearHead Winery 2017 Pinot Noir Cuvée
This Cuvée bottling represents the winery's best barrels of its many Dijon clones blended with an eye on elegance and depth. Opening with a youthful, layered nose of creamy raspberry, forest floor, huckleberry and sweet, smoky, BBQ Salmon crackling aromas. A full, yet, lively, dry palate follows with a similar mix of sweet and savoury flavours; dark cherry, cocoa, light smoke, vanilla and a touch of spicy oak and amaretto liqueur on the long finish. 
Full Review





#10

Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery 2016 Summit
Bold, ripe and concentrated with both fine texture and weight to pair with lean, grilled meats, but not too much body, staying fairly fluid and graceful. 'Big', yes, but 'balanced', mostly. Look for classic New World Meritage flavours of dark fruits, pipe tobacco and spices supported by toasted oak, a touch of graphite and other mineraly notes.
Full Review


 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2019 IconWines.ca

Featured Wines: Christmas 2019

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).




Santa's Got A Brand New Bag





Hi Everyone!
We’re late enough into the season that I can spoil the ending of the Christmas movie: Santa’s spirit was inside of us the whole time. That means buying wine for yourself is totally cool. I have some ideas:

AUSTRALIA
John Duval Eligo Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley
A stellar Shiraz from the man who made 16 vintages of Grange. The semi-retired former Penfolds head winemaker (he won World Winemaker of the Year twice) returned to his family’s vineyards in 2003, producing small batches of gorgeous Shiraz like this 2013 Eligo, showing violets, licorice and dark chocolate over a molten core of blueberry and eucalyptus. Perfect purity of fruit and purpose. 98 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs available, $84.98 +tax

CHILE
De Martino Vigno 2016 Maule Valley
Now this is something new, why wasn’t it on my radar before? A Carignan-based field blend (Malbec fills the holes) from Aguada, a 60-year-old dry farmed vineyard in the Maule. A fascinating nose – if you could see aromas this would be Technicolor, with flowers, earth, game and red berries, a balance of sweet and savoury scents – but the big body and finish are classically elegant, not unlike a Hermitage. Wow. 97 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs available, $61.98

FRANCE
Louis Roederer Cristal 2008 Champagne
I’ve already seen a dozen cases of this instant classic bounce off this store, but I did manage to snag a tad more for the Holidays. Boasting some of the best scores in decades, the 2008 Cristal (held back and released after the yummy 2009) has been called a “perfect wine” by Jeb Dunnuck – the nose of apple, cream and toasted spices runs seamlessly into a honeyed body of ginger, orange peel and chalk. There’s so much going on, here. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 100% not gonna be here by 2020. 100 points James Suckling, 100 points Jeb Dunnuck, 98 points Decanter, 98 points Wine Enthusiast, 97 points Wine Spectator, 3 3-packs available, $295.99

Chateau Suduiraut 1982 Sauternes (375ml)
What does Forever taste like? Honey, walnuts and beeswax, evidently. This low-key estate (close to Yquem) dates back to the 1500s, and the only reason it’s not charging an arm and a leg is because of the meh quality of its mid-20th century output, a problem that was more than remedied by 1982, when new owners started to make classic Sauternes again. 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, browning a tad, with waxy, nutty notes sand a layered, medium-sweet deployment. Pairs with Netflix. 1 wooden 12 pack (and some wee loose bottles too), $65.98 /375ml

ITALY
Felsina Fontalloro 2016 Toscana I.G.T. 
The Tuscan 2016 vintage is like a baseball player who’s already scored a home run but keeps running around the bases over and over. We get it, dude, you’re awesome. Accordingly, this 100% Sangiovese from high-altitude vineyards in Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi is an instant legend, a cellar-ready beast that exudes cassis and licorice over earthy minerality – think Flaccianello crossed with a Barolo. Probably best past 2022, but I have noticed that many Tuscan 2016s stop biting after 5+ hours in a decanter, so… game on? 98+ points Robert Parker, 98 points James Suckling, 3 6-packs available, $109.98

Guidalberto 2017 Toscana I.G.T. 
The famous younger brother to Sassicaia has developed its own following independent of that house’s Grand Vin, the value is fantastic and the doors open for business far earlier. The 2017 is still pretty youthful but the dark red fruits are singing over a firm, Saint-Estephe-ish frame with blood orange and coffee sealing the finish. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. 94 points James Suckling, 4 6-packs available, $59.99 +tax

Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrogio 2015 Piedmont
A rather thick and robust offering (from the record-breaking hot 2015 July, no doubt) from a family winery who’ll be celebrating their centennial in a little over a year. The Ambrogio vineyard is found in the lesser-known Barolo commune of Roddi in the north, and its wines are a balance of masculine and feminine, it’s a beast on the palate, for sure, but it smells so pretty. Citrus, orange peel and mint infiltrate the bright red fruits on the nose, there are pronounced, fine tannins but 1) that’s kind of baked into the Nebbiolo cake and 2) there’s almost enough generous body to balance it. 97 points James Suckling, 2 wooden 6-packs available, $104.98 +tax

Elio Sandri Barolo Perno Riserva 2012 Piedmont
I know there’s a whole lot of folks waiting for this one. Curmudgeonly traditionalist extraordinaire, Mr. Sandri returns to us with elegant tobacco, mint and cedar notes, and a Bruce Banner-ish hidden power that is only brought to the fore with a good long decant. I missed this guy. 94 points Vinous, 3 6-packs available, $94.98 +tax

SPAIN
CVNE Monopole Bianco Clasico 2015, Rioja
This wine never gets the points it deserves (although it’s #17 on Vine-Pair’s top 50! Huzzah!) but that kind of only makes me love it more. You aren’t actually allowed to make white Rioja this way, but since CVNE has been doing it since before cars, it got grandfathered in. Monopole Classico is neutral-barrel-aged Viura (with Malvasia) with 5% dry Manzanilla Sherry added in. That little move completely upends the texture and feel of the wine, transforming the aromatics (yeast, nuts, spice on top of citrus cream) and the viscosity (creamy, dry and lingering). If you’re curious we’ll be pouring this in the River District Vintage Room tomorrow (Saturday) at 3pm. A steal at this price. 92 points Robert Parker, 2 cases available, $39.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!!