Colour 2012 Highlights

Each September the BC Wine Institute holds its Fall tasting of VQA wines. The event, Colour, attracts a large contingent of VQA member wineries ranging from the big conglomerates like the many Vincor properties to the small Mom and Pop shops and everything in-between. The event has an afternoon Trade and Media component and a consumer-friendly, evening food-pairing tasting that always draws a great crowd. It's hard to taste all the wines on offer, however, reporting on what was tasted and having sought-out mostly new releases, below are my notes on a few gems worth seeking out.

Most Memorable White:
Painted Rock Estate Winery 2011 Chardonnay - $30
Absolutely gorgeous nose that will make you smile. Warm, sweet fruit and light brioche. Harmonious palate builds from a whisper on the entry to a full-bodied crescendo of orchard-fruit-goodness and a long, long finish. Very impressive.

Most Memorable Red:
Black Hills Estate Winery 2010 Syrah - $30
A nice surprise considering the cooler vintage and pedestrian 2009 release. Nice floral notes on the nose add complexity to the concentrated red fruit and pepper. Palate's balance is impressive with all components fitting nicely; good fruit, oak influence, mouth-watering acid and good length.

Best Value Wine:
Arrowleaf 2010 Pinot Noir - $17.99
Contender for best value wine of the year! A delicate nose of cherry cola followed by a light bodied, yet intense and fresh palate of red fruit and forest floor. Straight forward, no piece out of place. Delicious.

The Best of the Rest (A-Z):
Black Hills Estate Winery 2010 Nota Bene - $54
Fantastic concentration and depth. Deep, seductive, dark fruit on the nose with a full-bodied, fruit'n'herb palate to follow. Seems to embrace the cool vintage conditions rather than combat them.

Fairview Cellars 2010 The Bear - $34.90
Despite the success of the following single-variety wine, the best way to manage a cool vintage when trying to produce a hearty red wine is via a creative blend of components. Winemaker Bill Eggert succeeds again with his signature Bordeaux blend and similar to the Nota Bene, embraces the cool vintage conditions.

Fairview Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon - $39.90
There's just something about Fairview's terroir and vineyard program that squeezes every once of available ripeness from nature to produce the style of Cabernet Sauvignon folks are willing to pay good money to get. For 2010 we're at the lean and masculine end of the spectrum. But an herbal mess? No. A ripe Cab with delicious flavours? Yes - but you'll need to be patient. 2-3 years at least.

Fort Berens 2010 Meritage - $26.99
Rather different style than the fruit-forward, ready upon release 2009. The 2010 will need to lay quietly in your cellar for a while to mellow out, but, it deserves to be there. Super dry palate with big tannins and an austere style are the biggest changes. Think Right Bank Bordeaux

Fort Berens 2010 Cabernet Franc - $26.99
Similar to the Meritage, the 2010 Cabernet Franc has been made in an ultra-dry, austere style with big tannins that need some time to chill. Lean, focused with a great texture on the palate.

McWatters Collection 2009 Meritage - $29.99
Another stunning, full-bodied and concentrated Meritage from the hot 2009 vintage. Classic New World Meritage nose with ripe berry fruit dominant. Palate is juicy, full of flavour, well balanced and the wine finishes long.

Moon Curser 2010 Border Vines - $25
This wine stands out from its Meritage peers with a unique blend that includes Carmenere (35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 7% Carmenere, 7% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot) and prune notes on the nose. Rich, ripe, chewy tannins and a little extra body from a splash of RS. A big blend.

Moon Curser 2010 Dead of Night - $38
Another proprietary blend with 47% Tannat and 53% Syrah all sourced from the Osoyoos Bench producing a rich and intriguing wine. Again prune notes help distinguish it from the pack, but, will they be to everyone's liking?

Osoyoos Larose 2009 Petales d'Osoyoos - $25
Consistant with the house style of massive tannins and a dense character of dark fruit, licorice and toasted oak. Ripe tannins and fruit, good structure and well balanced. The best Petales in years.

Osoyoos Larose 2008 Le Grand Vin - $45
The 2008 vintage is one to pass on. The tannins are absolutely huge and slightly under ripe which no amount of time in the cellar will improve. 2009 vintage should be released fairly soon and given the success of the firm's 2nd wine from that vintage (see above) I would save your cash and hold out.

Platinum Bench 2010 Benchmark Red - $?
From a new winery on the Black Sage Bench wedged between Black Hills and Desert Hills with a mature vineyard that used to conract out its grapes. This is a proprietary blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 8% Gamay Noir. Ripe and fruit forward.

See Ya Later Ranch 2009 Ping - $27.99
Expressive, ripe berry and plum fruit on this Meritage blend of 54% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Good intensity with friendly, round tannins. Best Ping I've ever tasted.

Seven Stones 2009 Row 128 Merlot - $30
Unfortunately, this wine is now sold out according to the winery's website. If you do come across it, however, snatch it up and be reminded just how good Merlot can be in BC when it is nicely extracted and properly oaked. Big, fruity and robust with decent complexity and superb balance.

Tantalus 2011 Riesling - $21.90
Off-dry Riesling with grapefruit, lime and loads of green apple acidity. Quite full, perhaps a tad too sweet, but, a great spicy food wine to be sure.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Colour... A deep, dark, brilliant ruby. Part 2

Continued from Part 1 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Highlights from the recent Fall BC VQA trade tasting.

Meritage Blends
It seems that nearly every winery in BC these days is possessed to produce a big, Bordeaux-styled blend. Why? I don't know. Could be the competitive nature of the personalities involved in the wine business. Could be that the influence of Bordeaux is so far reaching that most folks simply find comfort in the familiar. Or, it could simply be that Merlot and the Cabernets go really well together, especially when they get dressed up in fine oak staves and accessorize with a touch of Petit Verdot here and dab of Malbec there.

Blackwood Lane 2007 Alliance
$60 14.5%
Available now. Big, juicy, refined and very complex, but a slight funkiness on the nose will have you seeking out more of the still available 2006 vintage.

Black Widow 2008 Hourglass
$36 14.9%
Available now. A blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc which delivers a port-like intensity with a little too much candied fruit on the nose.

Cassini Cellars 2009 Maximus
$28 14.9%
Available Oct 1st. Perhaps, not as "big" as the 2008 overall, but more refinement on the palate is a welcomed attribute of this new vintage. Based on the pedigree of previous releases and the new use of a real cork enclosure, development seems like a safe bet along with a long lifespan of nearly ten years.

Church and State 2008 Quintessential
$50 14.5%
Available in early October. Church and State's signature blend (Cabernet Sauvignon dominant) is amazingly consistent year to year. Classic new world, fruit-forward, beast of a wine, yet refined and elegant. Finish goes on and on.

Ex Nihilo 2007 Night
$40 14.5%
Available now. Tannins are a bit green, but still a very tasty blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc with good concentration or dark fruit characters and oak which is ready to go. No bottle aging required.

Fairview Cellars 2009 The Bear
$35 14.9% 300 cases
Available now. The best Bear since 2005. Eclipses the fantastic 2008 vintage with more concentration and attitude. Uses all 5 Bordeaux varietals for added complexity.

Noble Ridge 2008 Reserve Meritage
$30 14.8%
Available now. New for 2008, Noble Ridge has released two Meritage blends. A $20 entry level, Stelvin capped, Merlot driven blend with entry-level intrigue. And this "Reserve" Meritage at $30 which sees better barrels and better fruit resulting in a wine that's miles better than its little brother.

Painted Rock 2009 Red Icon
$55 14.3%
Not yet released. We don't just love this wine for its bold and familiar name. We love it for its uniqueness in the world of cookie-cutter big reds. The first vintage (2007) had Petit Verdot as the leading grape in the blend... yeah, Petit Verdot! None of the corporate wineries would ever try that. (And to be fair, I doubt proprietor John Skinner would ever again either... the bane of originality.) These bold risks have mostly all paid off delivering a unique blend from a picture perfect vineyard offering honest vintage variation. The 2009 is a blend of 30% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot and 1% Syrah delivering massive concentration and complexity. California cult blends come to mind while tasting. Well done Team Painted Rock!

See-Ya-Later Ranch 2008 Ping
$27 14.5%
Available now. Sturdy, decent complexity on offer here in this Merlot-leading blend. Not as "big" as the 2006 version, but juicier and more approachable. Very well priced.

Seven Stones 2008 Meritage
$33 14.4%
Available now. Blend of 58% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot produced with fruit grown in the Similkameen Valley. A beautiful nose greets you then a soft and very smooth palate brings it home. Ready to go now so enjoy it while you're waiting for the Painted Rock Icon to mellow.

Tinhorn Creek 2008 2 Bench Red
$30 15%
Available Oct 1st. May not be the Master of Balance that was the 2007 edition, but the 2008 still delivers. A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc which delivers a potpourri of savoury and fruity characters wrapped in a mouth-watering, sweet oak and very dry palate.

The Rest
A few other wines from the trade tasting worth mentioning should you be looking for something other than a Meritage blend or Cabernet. All reds.

Blackhills Estate 2009 Syrah
$30 14.1%
Available now. Soft, spicy, nice blend of old world texture and weight with new world fruit. Long finish. Very good first vintage for the boutique winery. 2% Viognier added for extra aromatics and colour.

Churh and State 2009 Syrah
$35 14.5%
Available in early October. Another solid south okanagan valley Syrah produced from the winery's Coyote Bowl vineyard offering good typicity within an easy-drinking presentation.

La Stella 2008 Maestoso
$90 14.7% 150 cases
Not yet available. A blockbuster of a wine filled with explosive action sequences and romantic intrigue. Wow! Priced for serious collectors only.

Road 13 2009 Merlot-Syrah
$40 14.5% 300 cases
Available now. As advertised, a blend of Merlot (74%) and Syrah (25%) with 1% of Viognier added for good measure. Unique. Nice and spicy. Not a "big" red wine, more elegant and reserved, but very complex.

Keep a look out for full reviews of these wines on http://www.iconscores.ca/ during the Fall as the wines get released.
 -  Liam Carrier ©copyright 2011 IconWines.ca

Colour... A deep, dark, brilliant ruby. Part 1

A deep, dark, brilliant ruby...

Was the predominant appearance note for the wines I gravitated towards at the BC Wine Institutes's annual Fall VQA tasting event, Colour. Ripe, intriguing and world class Cabernets and blends from the 2009 vintage caught my attention early and became my focus for the rest of the afternoon.

Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon is a tough grape to ripen in BC, but a few producers can produce excellent cool-climate versions in most years. With the hot 2009 vintage, the field was widened to include a few more participants who managed to avoid the damage of an early frost in October. When it's ripe, it's right! These are soooo right!

Church and State 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$35 14.5% 300 cases
Available in early October. Coyote Bowl vineyard. Juicy, ripe and very accessible. Perhaps, not the cellar dweller of my other Cabernet recommendations but an excellent wine in its own right.

Fairview Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$40 14.7% 160 cases
Sold-out at the winery. The 2009 vintage yielded the best Cabernet grapes from Bill Eggert's home vineyard in many years. So pleased was he with the results that a true Reserve level Cab will be coming out in future years, thus, the production is way down on his "normal" Cab. Fairview fans, of course, know it's anything but normal. Massive tannins with this one requiring 3+ years of bottle age.

Fairview Cellars 2009 The Wrath
$65 14.6% 250 cases
Available now. Wow was my first and nearly only note as my brain was too distracted by this incredible wine which offers an ultra-ripe and concentrated palate and smoky, sexed-up nose. Priced for collectors at $65 but oh-so worth the price.

Painted Rock 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$40 14.5% 150 cases
Not yet released. Rivals the Fairview Cabernet's ripeness and concentration but eclipses everyone with a dazzling display of complexity and depth. By far, the winery's best yet.

SpierHead 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$33 13.6% 210 cases
Available now. More fruit forward than the others listed here. Lower alcohol and a touch more residual sugar create a softer expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that is ready to drink now.
Icon Score

Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc has become the latest front-runner in the race to become BC's signature grape - well, red grape anyway. By no means is this an official event that wineries are actively participating in - it's completely made-up by the wine media in order to help define to the world what makes BC's various wine producing regions unique. Yet, the quality on display at Colour does suggest a growing love affair with the lesser-know Bordeaux varietal both within the industry and with consumers. So, maybe we finally have a winner?

Cassini Cellars 2009 Reserve Cabernet Franc
$40 (est) 14.8%
Not yet released. The South Okanagan has a new Cab Franc powerhouse with the release of Cassini's first single varietal offering of the aromatic grape. Displays good typicity for BC Cab Franc with a new level of concentration and power. One to watch out for.

Church and State 2009 Cabernet Franc
$35 14.5% 300 cases
Available in early October. Only produced in exceptional years

SpierHead 2009 Cabernet Franc
$30 13.5% 71 cases
Available now. Follows house style of soft, elegant and drinkable now. Comes off like a cheeky Pinot Noir with med body and a watery, smoky texture. Good minerality.

Sumac Ridge 2009 Black Sage Bench Cabernet Franc
$20 13.5%
Available now. Easy going, typical and well-priced.

Tinhorn Creek 2009 Cabernet Franc
$20 148%
Available now. Early candidate for value wine of the year. 2009 was a banner year for the Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc with offers delicious, ripe dark fruit matched with thick, savoury dark chocolate, spice and oak characters.
Icon Score
 -  Liam Carrier ©copyright 2011 IconWines.ca

Go to Part 2 Meritage Blends and The Rest

BC Wine Deal: February 3rd, 2010

The following wines have been reduced in price for February. Look for these deals at participating BC VQA stores like The Wine Emporium and Taylorwood Wines.

Arrowleaf Merlot was $17.99 IS NOW $16.99
Canoe Cove Chardonnay was $12.49 IS NOW $9.99
Chaberton Merlot Barrel Reserve was $23.30 IS NOW $19.50
Chaberton Madeleine Sylvaner was $13.20 IS NOW $11.75
Fork in The Road Red was $22.99 IS NOW $19.99
Gray Monk Odyssey Rose Brut was $26.99 IS NOW $24.99
Gray Monk Odyssey Sparkling White was $26.99 IS NOW $24.99
Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon SLC was $26.99 IS NOW $21.99
Tinhorn Merlot was $18.99 IS NOW $17.99
Tinhorn Chardonnay was $17.99 IS NOW $16.99

Gewurztraminer: BC's Signature White?

Is Gewurztraminer BC's Signature White Varietal? Icon Wine's Liam Carrier Makes The Case...

Lovers of BC Chardonnay need not fear (nor write nasty letters), nary a negative word will be written in this article knocking the many fantastic Chardonnays produced in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. Rather, I simply desire to highlight the lesser-publicized varietal that is our small-bunched and blue-ish friend.

One cannot define, with a single sentence, the Okanagan Valley's climate and selection of diverse terroir except, perhaps, to state that "it is perfect for growing Gewurztraminer". However, does this statement alone make Gewurztraminer the region's signature white varietal? Of course not. It takes a group of talented winemakers to work with the grapes and produce the quality aromatic and often delicate wine many of us "Wurz-heads" love so much.

Gerwurztraminer excels in the warm areas of cool climate regions which fits the Okanagan Valley to a tee. The valley's winemakers are also excelling in their own right using cool fermentation methods to preserve the natural aromatic qualities of the varietal producing an array of different Gewurztraminers to choose from. The wines, ranging from bone-dry to ice wine, showcase the uniqueness of each planted area in the valley and reflect the winemaker's vision for the final product.

The following Gewurztraminers represent a wide selection of the fine product available to BC consumers. Sadly, very few make it out of the province although I have seen the Lake Breeze offering as far East as Winnipeg. Seek them out where you can and compare to the excellent Ontario product if you have the means.

2007 Township 7 - $18.99

The Towship 7 offerings is very dry and very subtle. Good acidity with strong mineral notes and tropical fruitiness on the palate. Muted, yet layered floral and orange-spice aromas on the nose. 88pts

2008 Red Rooster - $15.99

Near-dry and very tasty. Crisp and balanced. Will match nicely with many spicy Asian dishes. Excellent price-point. 87pts

2008 Tinhorn Creek - $16.99

Golden Mile Bench grown grapes in this fairly classic Gewurztraminer. Lychee, peach, grapefruit and melon aromas and flavours. Good medium acidity help make this a nice and refreshing wine to match with food. 87pts

2007 See-Ya-Later Ranch - $17.01

Off-dry. Floral aromas with grapefruit and lychee accents. Honey dew melon and more lychee fruit flavours with medium acidity which balances the fruit-sweetness very well. 89pts.

2008 Grey Monk Estate Winery - $16.99
Light spice and orchard fruit nose with tropical fruit and melon flavours on the palate. Decent complexity but lacking in intensity of aromas and flavours. 85pts

2008 Cedar Creek - $17.90

Off-dry. Orange blossom and lychee spice aromas with citrus and tropical fruit flavours with mineral notes. Lacks intensity on the nose and acidity on the palate. Pair with spicy-savoury fare. 86pts

2008 Lake Breeze Vineyards - $16.99

Touch of residual sugar. One of the most pleasant noses you will ever smell. Full of intense floral, perfume and tropical fruit aromas which carry through to the palate. Perfectly balanced wine with good crisp acidity on the finish. The best Gewurztraminer in BC for 2008. 91pts

Full Review

2008 Thornhaven - $17.99

An off-dry verging on medium-dry, tropical fruit bomb. Match with spicy Asian fare to discover the hidden complexity of lychee, minerals and moderate acidity. 88pts.

So, is Gewurztraminer BC's signature white wine? Well maybe, maybe not. It would be hard to say that the Province's best Chardonnays and Rieslings wouldn't compete for that title as well. However, many of the premium Chardonnays command a premium price whereas BC's top Gerwurztraminers do not. All of the wines featured in this article are below the $20 price-point. One could therefore propose that Gewurztraminer is "BC's signature budget white wine" or "BCSBWW", but that's a terrible title and in the end that all doesn't matter. We'll keep signing BC Gewurztraminer's praise and you can decide for yourself.

At Icon Wines we are always interested in your feedback. Please share your thoughts about this or any other article at iconwines@shaw.ca

Our Favourite Lower Mainland Wine Shops

Fraser Valley

The Wine Emporium

#500-22259 48th avenue, Langley

We like: Best VQA selection. Good prices. Weekly tastings.
About: The Wine Emporium is a VQA affiliated store located in Langley and id the Fraser valley’s best kept secret. Owner/manager Frank Valente will help you pick the perfect wine for any occasion. They are the only VQA store in the Lower Mainland to carry Icon Wines favourite Fairview Cellars. Prices match BCLDB and they often have wines that are sold-out at the winery.

PoCo Signature BCLDB
Nicola Station: 1097 Nicola Avenue, Port Coquitlam
Westwood Center : 2748 Lougheed Hwy, Port Coquitlam

We like: Decent BC section. Good vintage section. Marked-down items.
About: There are two “Signature” BC Liquor Stores in Port Coquitlam and they are two of the best in the Lower Mainland. Bargain hunters will often find good wines marked-down. The Nicola Station has a great selection of 2006 Bordeaux still available.

Burnaby

Kensington Square Wines
6626 Hastings St, Burnaby

We like: Weekly tastings blog. Good VQA selection.
About: Sign-up for owner/manager Leah’s email notice to receive her weekly blog about what they are tasting at the store each Friday and Saturday. Friendly staff will help you find a bottle of VQA goodness. Good selection of Road 13, See-Ya-Later Ranch, Mission Hill and Cedar Creek.

Vancouver

Marquis Wines Cellars

1034 Davie Street, Vancouver

We like: Wines of the weekend specials. Fun events.
About : Marquis Wine Cellars has the best selection of French and Spanish wine in BC. They are the place to go to make your Bordeaux Futures order and have a great “Wines of the Weekend” discount program. They also have a knack for bringing in top value Argentinean and Chilean wines that the BCLDB don’t carry.

Flagship Signature BCLDB
5555 Cambie Street, Vancouver

We like: Vintage selection. Events.
About: BCLDB’s largest in-store selection of wines. This stores hosts most of the bigger wine events; both paid and free. Knowledgeable staff in all BCLDB Signature stores but this location seems to have the most “experts” on staff.

North Vancouver

Everything Wine

998 Marine Drive, North Vancouver

We like: Huge selection. Mari Kane’s wine blog. Events.

About: Everything Wine has an impressive wine list that covers all regions and price points. Many offerings are at par with BCLDB prices and some aren’t; you’ll have to shop wise. Great selection of wine accessories and we especially like their wall of 90+point wines. Owner/manager Mari Kane’s wine blog is a nice addition to the informative website. Sign-up for email notifications for upcoming paid and free events.