Get to know...Michal Mosny

Photo credit: Penticton Herald (with his wife Martina)

Michal Mosny
Vintner, Winemaker's Cut
Oliver, BC


Michal has been the consulting winemaker and general manager for Summerland's foreign-owned, Lunessence Winery and Vineyard, for the past two years and is shepherding his own label, Winemaker's Cut.

Get to know Michal and get to know the wines of Winemaker's Cut a bit better...

Key wines to try:
Sauvignon Blanc: 2016, 2017
Syrah: 2015, 2016

What do you enjoy most about making wine?

Winemaking is my life. I enjoy it as a whole, starting in the vineyard each winter/spring until bottling, labelling and sharing wine with friends and customers. I enjoy working with mother nature, learning to understand the vineyard and terroir. Especially enjoy to work with same vineyards for long time to see the differences between vintages, how our work in the vineyard reflects in wine and how we learn to understand each vineyard. And there is lots to learn every year and that is fascinating.

What inspired you to become a winemaker?

I was inspired by the fact, that there is some tradition in making wine in our family that goes back to France. I love the whole life around growing grapes then helping them to become wine. Vineyard is one of the most important part of winemaking to me. I believe that the decisions you make in the vineyard reflects in wine more than anything you do in the cellar. Winemaking is a different world, different matrix in the world of nature. Never ending search for that perfect formula for your wine or vineyard where the variables are constantly changing.

What causes you the most stress during harvest?

I am trying to enjoy each harvest without stress. But when it comes to important steps during harvest, fun is over, grapes and wine are on the first place. The biggest stress is mostly when the weather changes unexpectedly and we have to rush picking. 

What is your favourite and/or least favourite wine cliché?

That is tough because many favourite cliche became my least favourite over the years seeing how they are being miss-used by “marketing". But my most favourite always is: In wine is the truth.

Away from the cellar and vineyard, what’s your greatest passion in life?

Spending time with my wife Martina and our dog Milo and traveling, exploring new cultures, places, wines, food.

After a long day of work in the cellar, what do you turn to for refreshment?

A glass of wine that we are making. It is very rewarding and keeps me being motivated.

If you could take credit for one other BC wine on the market today, which would it be and why?

With all respect to other BC wines, being busy in the vineyard and cellar, I have absolutely no time to tour wineries or taste wines from other BC wineries. But my choice would be a wine from small-mid size winery owned by a passionate winemaker.

Of the wines in your portfolio, do you have a favourite food pairing to go with one of the wines?

Winemaker’s CUT Sauvignon Blanc 2016 and sable fish. Heaven in my mouth.

What do you think will be the next big trend in BC wine over the next few years?

For us, small wineries, vintners, the best is to stay focused on wine because at the end, that is all that matters. I wish wine will become free in Canada one day and not considered as “bad alcohol” that has to be regulated.

Screwcap or cork? What’s your preference?

It all depends on wine and the vineyard the grapes are coming from. I like to make wines that go under cork. But I like screwcup on some types of wine.

 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2018 IconWines.ca

Winemaker Changes in the Okanagan

Two Okanagan Valley winemaker roles have recently been filled; Kelowna's Quails' Gate Winery have promoted from within and Naramata Bench's Moraine Winery have scooped-up the temporarily vocation-less Dwight Sick.

From the Quails' Gate Winery Media Release:

Quails’ Gate Winery is pleased to announce that Ross Baker has been promoted to the position of Winemaker. Ross has been an integral part of our winemaking team since 2013 and was a protégé of former winemaker Nikki Callaway.

A native of Kelowna, Ross completed his Bachelor of Science in Wine at the University of British Columbia Okanagan. Ross previously worked at Villa Maria Estates in Marlborough, New Zealand and also held positions locally at both Red Rooster Winery and Kettle Valley Winery.

Tony Stewart, CEO of Quails’ Gate winery, notes “We are very excited for Ross to assume the role of Winemaker. Ross has been part of the Quails’ Gate family for many years, and with his intimate knowledge of our vineyards and wine styles, is the perfect candidate to maintain the consistency and quality of our wines.”

Quails’ Gate is also happy to share that Kailee Frasch has assumed the role of Oenologist. Kailee started at the winery in 2016. She holds a Bachelor of Science in Microbiology from the University of British Columbia Okanagan, and a Certificate in Grape and Wine Technology from Brock University.

In the coming weeks, the Stewart family will announce its selection for the Director of Winemaking position. This new role will oversee winery operations at Quails’ Gate as well as the family’s Sonoma operations for Lake Sonoma Winery and Valley of the Moon.

From the Moraine Winery Medial Release:

Moraine Winery owners Oleg and Svetlana Aristarkhov, are very pleased to announce the appointment of Dwight Sick as their new winemaker and director of vineyard / winery operations. Dwight Sick, former winemaker, over the past 10 years, at award winning Stag’s Hollow Winery (awarded #5 small winery in Canadaat the 2018 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada), brings a wealth of knowledge and experience to the operations of Moraine Winery. His style of winemaking is well suited to our winery and the fruit which we grow in our estate vineyards on the Naramata Bench.

The timing of Dwight joining forces with Moraine Winery couldn’t be happening at a better moment as the winery is currently completing a major reconstruction including an expanded winery production area, barrel cellar, tasting room and guest experience centre.

“I’m very excited to be stepping into this role at Moraine Winery. While I’ve only just had time to inspect the vineyards, taste through the wines and view the construction of the new winery

facilities, I couldn’t be happier with the situation. There is a strong team at work and they are doing great things at Moraine Winery. My hopes are to add to these successes and to help take the brand to a new level”.

There is little doubt that Dwight will be able to help take Moraine to a new level bringing his years of experience in the vineyard and cellar as well as his years pouring at trade and customer events building brand awareness and educating tasters - an underrated skill in the industry.

News: New Food Options at JoieFarm

From the winery's press release:

It is with great pleasure that we announce a new concept and menu change at Joie Picnique for the coming 2018 season: Le Comptoir at Joie Picnique.

This summer our owner and winemaker Heidi Noble will be returning to her culinary roots with the support of our core staff and her partner, JJ Skidmore, using our wood burning oven to serve rotating small-plate offerings of European-inspired snacks to accompany our European-inspired wines.

Le Comptoir at Joie Picnique is not a restaurant, rather a beautiful outdoor salon to sit casually or throw down a blanket amongst the heritage fruit trees and orchard to enjoy wine country snacks and a bottle of wine. We will serve classic European dishes highlighted with fresh seasonal produce from our garden, local growers and the Penticton Farmer's Market. Guests can expect an ever-changing menu of small dishes such as: wood-fired marinated sardines, Vancouver Island escargot with garlic pistou, wood-fired lamb ribs with apricot harissa, local sausages with homemade choucrôute, wood-oven bean pots with heritage grains, homemade ricotta with local honey and rosemary, pissaladière, tarte flambée, and charcuterie of cheese, olives, smoked nuts and lightly-cured fish.

We know our Neopolitan-style pizza will surely be missed, but it is our intention as an integrated team of food lovers (all of whom love to cook and eat!) to provide a menu that can better speak to our local terroir and evolving food culture on the West Coast of Canada. It is our intention to cultivate this culture on our lawn this summer.

Our tasting room itself will also have a more focused flight this season to better inform our guests about the history of aromatic Germanic varietals in British Columbia, the potential for Burgundian varietals in the cool-climate, lake-moderated desert of the Okanagan Valley, and the culinary roots of JoieFarm. Our core tasting flight of five wines is $15 with an option for a supplemental tasting of three additional reserve wines for $5. Tasting fees are waived with a minimum purchase of one bottle on a per-person basis. Le Comptoir at Joie Picnique and our oyster shell bocce court are reserved for our tasting room guests only.

Le Comptoir at Joie Picnique Hours

Open 12pm to 4pm (weather dependent)

Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays

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May to June:

Full menu available Saturdays & Sundays starting May 19th

Smaller snacks will be served Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays

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July to August:

Full rotating menu available

Pinot Trio

SpierHead has come a long way with their handling of Pinot Noir since their first vintage of estate grown fruit in 2010. Now 6 years on, the East Kelowna winery is making a name for itself with multiple Pinot Noir labels in their portfolio. The 2014 vintage yielded a trio of excellent Pinots ranging from light, bright and full of might to rich'n'supple. Pinophiles will enjoy tasting all three, side-by-side-by-side, picking out the differences and similarities between the labels which I've tried to capture below.

2014 Pinot Noir - $23
A bright and fresh Pinot Noir with juicy-tangy red fruit prominent on the engaging nose and the mouth-watering, (mostly) dry palate. Cherry nibs, vanilla, mild oak and mineral notes add complexity throughout. Light spice and chocolate-covered cherry flavours linger on the moderate-plus finish.
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2014 GFV Saddle Block Pinot Noir - $27
The Momma Bear of the Pinot Noir trilogy on offer from East Kelowna's SpierHead Winery. Falls right in the middle on the richness scale between the other two. The "GFV" (for Gentleman Farmer Vineyard) is feminine and well-balanced, hosting a range of red fruits on the inviting nose and the concentrated, spicy palate. The finish is long with lingering wild berry acidity.
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2014 Pinot Noir Cuvée - $32
Lives up to its billing as the winery's flagship Pinot Noir (they make 2 others), this micro cuvée is blended from select barrels and produces a beautiful wine, rich in complexity and texture. The loving embrace of French oak is felt on the vanilla-kissed, cherry-raspberry nose and on the vibrant, medium-plus bodied, red fruit and tea leaf palate. Structure is solid with silky-smooth tannins and huckleberry acidity. The finish is long and spicy with lingering dark cherry and Black Forest cake flavours.
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Photo Album - Burrowing Owl

After many trips through the Okanagan Valley to visit its wineries and meet the folks behind the great wines on offer, I've accumulated many photographs over the years.

Situated along the Black Sage Bench, Burrowing Owl is a Southern Okanagan institution that offers great wines, fabulous food and amazing views. The following photos were all taken during a visit in the Spring of 2009.

Burrowing Owl as seen from the Golden Mile Bench

LaStella and Le Vieux Pin: 4 New Releases

At a recent media open house I had the pleasure of tasting the new releases from both LaStella and Le Vieux Pin, two wineries owned and operated by the Enotecca group who often present the wines together to represent two equal halves of their larger Ode to European Winemaking story.

The LaStella wines take their inspiration from Italy while Le Vieux Pin professes Enotecca's love for France's Rhone Valley. Both, however, strive to produce quality, uniquely Okanagan Valley wines, not doppelgangers of each winery's venerable Old World muse. Below are my notes on a few of the recent and upcoming releases from both wineries:

Le Vieux Pin 2011 Ava - $35
14%. 78% Viognier, 11% Marsanne, 11% Rousanne
Though slightly muted, there's lost to like on the aromatic nose with peach and apricot fruit aromas adding to the pleasant bouquet. Clean and crisp with good minerality on the rounded, medium-plus bodied palate. Good length and depth.

Le Vieux Pin 2009 Retouche - $60
14.9%. 62 cases. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah
An homage to a near-forgotten time when Bordeaux producers would augment their Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah from the Rhone Valley for much needed tannin structure and colour. LVP's take is a Cab-Syrah blend (roughly 70/30 split) that aims to emphasize the qualities of Cabernet Sauvignon rather than showcase a blended wine - a successful feat. Sadly, however, the story behind the wine is more engaging than the finished product. A solid Cabernet with a good expression of fruit on the palate and a subtle nose of dark berry fruit and oak influenced aromas.
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LaStella 2009 La Sophia - $75
15.1%. 48 cases. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
A stunning Cabernet Sauvignon that grips your attention from the first sniff of sweet, concentrated dark berry fruit and deep licorice aromas. The truly gorgeous palate follows with a near perfect balance between the ripe, silky tannins, elegant texture and smooth acidity. Complex and captivating. Despite the fact this wine has yet to be released most of it has already been snatched up by wine club members. Contact the winery quickly to reserve one of the last few cases.
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LaStella 2009 Maestoso - $100
15.2%. 148 cases. 100% Merlot
The Maestoso is a massive wine that seeks to knock your socks off with its unapologetic, Old World, heavy tannins. This wine needs a further 5-7 years to mature in order to properly appreciate the nuances of fruit, terroir and oak that are only barely perceptible today beneath the massive tannins. Bottled promise.
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- Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

2010 Okanagan Whites

As Spring finally takes hold in BC, wine lovers can rejoice with the release of the previous year's first wines: white varietals that don't endure long maturing or oak programs prior to release. It is the first tangible evidence of a vintage's quality and of a winery's ability to have reacted to the unique challenges that every vintage north of the 49th parallel presents. A time of excitement and anxiety and of judgement and commerce.

The white wines from the cooler than average and late starting 2010 vintage can be best described as crisp and tangy with abundant natural acidity and mineral characters. Concentration and complexity is also present due to the prolonged growing season allowing longer hangtime on the vines for some varietals if the wineries didn't pick early. Time on the vine was so extreme in some cases that we should see more botrytis affected wines from the 2010 vintage.

Overall, the quality of the 2010 whites from the Okanagan Valley is strong, especially for the aromatic varietal wines where an extra acidic kick is welcomed. From recent tastings, here are some crisp, bright and most importantly, very tasty 2010 white wines to look-out for:

Desert Hills Estate Winery 2010 Gewurztraminer - $20
Bursting with classic "Goo" chracters of lychee and grapefruit with a nice acidic kick to balance the concentrated perception of sweetness from the fruit flavours. Where to buy: Direct from winery here.

Fort Berens Estate Winery 2010 Pinot Gris - $18
Despite the winery's Lillooet address this wine is all Okanagan. Produced from West Kelowna grown fruit and fermented in stainless steel tanks, this Pinot Gris is fruit forward and terroir driven with excellent austere characters to balance the orchard fruit and lemon zest notes. Where to buy: Direct from winery here.
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Hillside Estate Winery 2010 Muscat Ottonel - $20
A fairly dry Muscat which is a welcomed change from the many excellent sweeter examples of the varietal family. Dryness lets the subtle complexity on the palate shine. Where to buy: Direct from winery here.

JoieFarm 2010 Muscat - $23
The nose pops out of the glass with tangy citrus and candied fruit aromas. On the palate the wine is both biting and delicate. Crisp and fresh, yet gentle in its release of bright, nectarine, peach and lemon flavours. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and private wine shops.
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JoieFarm 2010 Riesling - $23
Prominent sweetness (25g/l of residual sugar) is balanced effortlessly with crisp acidity and strong minerality. The palate is fairly full-bodied for a Riesling offset by a refreshing, silky texture and a moderate, zesty finish. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and private wine shops.
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JoieFarm 2010 Un-Oaked Chardonnay - $23
The long and sometimes difficult 2010 season has produced a lovely Chardonnay that showcases the orchard and lemon/lime flavours and crisp, natural acidity of the grape without the need of oak structure or added depth. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and private wine shops.
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La Frenz Winery 2010 Alexandria- $20
A wonderfully delicate wine that oozes floral and citrus flavours. Sweetness is nicely balanced with the residual acidity. A great wine to pair with your sunny patio exploits this summer. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and private wine shops.

La Frenz Winery 2010 Riesling - $20
Similar off-dry style, but the mineral character is more prominent in the 2010 Riesling than its 2009 predecessor. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and private wine shops.

La Frenz Winery 2010 Sauvignon Blanc - $22
The Semillon component of this wine has been reduced to just a splash and is hardly noticible with the 2010 release. Crisp New Zealand style without the funky cat pee aromas. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and private wine shops.

LaStella Winery 2010 Leggiero - $25
Should appeal to the ABC crowd and to wine-lovers who love Chardonnay for its inherent fruit and mineral character more so than its compatibility with oak. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and VQA stores.
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LaStella Winery 2010 Vivace - $25
Balance is spot on with good acidity and enough residual sugar to mask the alcohol and create a joyful and full-ish texture on your palate. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and VQA stores.
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Le Vieux Pin 2010 Sauvignon Blanc - $35
The 2010 vintage has proven to be a good fit for Le Vieux Pin who routinely drop fruit in their vineyards to keep tonnage low, long before the threat of bad weather forces them to. The result is added concentration and a wider spectrum of flavours... and a higher cost per bottle. Where to buy: Direct from winery here.
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Moon Curser 2010 Afraid of the Dark - $22
Tasty, crisp blend of 43% Viognier, 42% Roussanne and 15% Marsanne was not oaked leaving a focused, fruit forward sipper. Where to buy: Direct from winery here.

Oak Bay Estate Winery 2010 Gewurztraminer - $17
Classic Alsatian "Goo" flavours of lychee, spice and citrus fruits follow on the well-balanced, full-bodied palate with a touch of residual sugar, good acidity and a long finish with lingering peppery lemon. Where to buy: Direct from winery here.
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Stoneboat Vineyards 2010 Chorus - $18
Production for this tasty blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Muller Thurgau, Kerner and Schoenburger is way up for 2010 which means visitors to the wineshop this summer will avoid being disappointed. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and VQA stores.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay - $17
As the wine warms in your glass the oak and lees characters come to life, but never dominate the palate of nose. Stonefruit, green apples, lemon and austere notes round-out the flavour profile. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and VQA stores.
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Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2010 Oldfield Series 2Bench White - $23
A blend of 44% Chardonnay, 26% Sauvignon Blanc, 17% Semillon, 12% Viognier and 1% Muscat, this wine is complex and very satisfying with a rich, creamy texture and a crisp, long, balanced finish. Where to buy: Direct from winery here and VQA stores.
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Young and Wyse Collection 2010 Amber - $20
The first white wine to be released by Osoyoos winery Young and Wyse Collection is a blend of 47% Viognier, 38% Pinot Gris and 15% Gewurztraminer. Crisp citrus acidity balances the fullness on the palate resulting in a very tasty wine with a moderate-plus finish and excellent texture. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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SOWA Launches New Identity

In the position of president of the South Okanagan Wineries Association, or SOWA, you will find one of the most mature and grounded 25 year olds that you're likely ever to meet. Tim Martiniuk is the son of respected longtime grower Lanny Martiniuk and one half of the Tim and Jay Show when in the company of his winemaking twin brother. Tim is the public face of the family business that includes a boutique winery, vineyards and a nursery which he represents with the demeanor of someone who grew up in a family where children aren't coddled and are clearly encouraged to take on responsibility. It's a testament to his ability and passion for the industry that his peers have voted him to represent the interests of the association's wide range of members that include small family firms like the Martiniuk's Stoneboat Vineyards and large conglomerate-owned wineries like Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate.

The goal of SOWA is to promote the area's wine industry beyond simplistic non-SOWA efforts such as erecting a sign that claims Oliver as the "Wine Capital of Canada". The new message, as unveiled by the young SOWA president at the recent media diner of the 2011 Banee Wine Festival, is one of a sense of place - the uniqueness of the region's desert climate, which enjoys the most sun exposure in any of BC's grape-growing regions, and the diversity within the region as represented by the three benches: the Golden Mile, the Black Sage and the Osoyoos Lake benches.

The plan is to distinguish the region within BC with the help of some new branding material (colourful new logos and wine routes) and with the use of the new "Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country" moniker to promote a geographical identity. The message is solid, now the work to execute the vision begins.

The reality is that membership in the SOWA is voluntary and currently excludes some influential wineries. Recruiting new and former member wineries will go a long way to ensure the message stays on point and has a consistent delivery. The push for a geographical identify must also be represented in the product. Many south Okanagan wines are produced using fruit from more than one of the region's benches and this fact is not always communicated properly on the label. It could be argued that a wine's provenance is only of interest to few, but when climatic diversity is paramount to the uniqueness of a region, where the wine comes from becomes more than anecdotal. Tasting room comparisons between vineyard specific bottlings of the same varietal has been a success in Niagara where the practise is more commonplace. Terroir transmitting Cabernet Franc seems a likely candidate for the Oliver Osoyoos region, but acreage is low and ultra small-lot releases are not always economically viable.

Tim Martinuik has his work cut out for him. He will be wise to foster co-operation and a true partnership between the family-run wineries and the large corporate wineries as it will be essential to the success of the region as a whole. In today's tough economy a home-grown industry has one small advantage that associations like SOWA can leverage; many BC (and Alberta) families will be looking for more vacation options at home in Canada over the next few years rather than traveling abroad. Partnering with local hospitality businesses and city councils to make it easier for families to choose the staycation option is a likely next step. Perhaps changing the sign in Oliver to read "Wine Touring Capital of Canada" would be a good start.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2011 IconWines.ca

Naramata Bench Wineries' Simply Red Event

On September 22nd, Icon Wines had the privilege of attending the Naramata Bench Wineries Association's "Simply Red" event held at the fabulous Goldfish Pacific Kitchen in Vancouver, BC. Many fantastic producers were at the event and most had at least one new release to show off.


Located in the Yaletown area of downtown Vancouver, Goldfish Pacific Kitchen restaurant is a great venue for this short of industry event. The floor was opened up to allow easy access to the winery tables and the staff were very courteous to all in attendance. The food was first rate. A very well organized event that allowed the wines to take center stage.

Our palates were in heaven tasting the many new releases on hand but, unfortunately, they got tired before we could complete the full circuit and visit every winery table.

We visited:

Howling Bluff Estate Wines
Howling Bluff were unveiling their two new releases: 2007 Pinot Noir and the 2007 Sin Cera.

La Frenz Winery
Winemaker Jeff Martin was on hand to help pour all of the La Frenz current and new releases. New (and recent) releases include their 2006 Reserve, 2007 Shiraz and their 2007 Merlot.

Poplar Grove Winery
Icon Wines got to finally meet the winemaker/proprietor Ian Sutherland who was on hand to show off the release of their 2006 Merlot and Cabernet Franc as well as their new wine boxes for second lable Monster Vineyards products.

Van Westen Vineyards
Winemaker Robert Van Westen was pouring a two vintage vertical of his powerhouse Voluptuous (2005 & 2006).

Laughing Stock Vineyards
Proprietors Dave and Cynthia Enns were on hand to pour their soon to be released 2007 Portfolio and their second-lable red blend, 2007 Blind Trust Red . The Portfolio was presented in a three vintage vertical (2005, 2006 and 2007).

Kettle Valley Winery
KVW were pouring their complete line-up of current releases. Old Main Red was a stand-out.

Lake Breeze Vineyards
Lake Breeze were pouring their Seven Poplars Pinot Noir, Meritage and their signature red blend the 2006 tempest.

Black Widow Winery
Black Widow only make one red wine and this was on hand: their 2007 Hourglass which is a Merlot/Cab blend.

Look for full reviews of this fall's new releases from the Naramata Bench appellation to be posted soon on Icon Scores soon. - LC