Introducing Silverback Vineyards

Silverback Vineyards in the brainchild of consulting winemaker Charles Herrold who dreamed of a boutique winery completely under his helm that would focus only on a concise portfolio of ultra-premium, small-lot wines. He found the quality and control he desired in Washington State's Columbia Valley leasing select blocks of grapes from premium vineyards and producing his wines among a strong community of like-minded winemakers in and around the city of Grandview.

The Columbia Valley has long attracted many of the world's great winemakers who work out of co-op or collective wineries such as Long Shadows Vintners which has been home to the likes of Michel Rolland, John Duval and Randy Dunn, each producing a signature wine and showcasing the amazing terroir of the Columbia Valley AVAs. With his Silverback Vineyards project, Herrold aims for the renown quality and prestige of Long Shadows while imparting his signature style on some of the world's most beloved wines: Chardonnay, Syrah and Bordeaux Blends.

Herrold's approach to winemaking is to apply minimal intervention, focusing on well-tended grapes from proven vineyards and by making the right choices in the winery to avoid compensating with chemicals - a common practice in the wine industry. Few faults or tweeks get past Herrold's refined nose and palate leading him to, essentially, strive to produce wines that pass his own critical sniff test.

The four wines that will be released this coming winter (exact dates not yet confirmed) would pass any one's sniff test as exceptionally crafted and executed gems that are sure to be a hit with collectors for their ageability and promise of further evolution.

The winery's website is not yet active, but look to get on the mailing list once it is to request an allotment. BC residents will have to wait until early 2013 before they're likely to see a bottle on a wine shop shelf. Your best bet is the Everything Wine store in South Surrey.

A note about the scores
I'm using some large ranges here as these wines have yet to be bottled. Though the wines are "finished" (blends have been finalized and the wines racked and/or filtered), they won't be released until the winter of 2012 upon which they will have spent 4-5 months in the bottle. Also, these wines are built to age and evolve, thus, the range is also an indication of expected improvement over time. Wines may be re-tasted upon release for a final score.

2011 Chardonnay - 94pts
A single-vineyard Chardonnay from the Horse heaven Hills AVA, cropped to 3.5 tonnes per acre and aged in both French and Hungarian oak with only minimal lees agitation for 6 months. As a result, the palate is exquisitely balanced with a subtle, ever-present texture allowing the fruit, mineral and oak influence flavours to sing in harmony with the mouth-watering, citrus melody.
Full Review

2010 Sangiovese - 92pts
Aged in 500L American oak puncheons and sourced from the Desert Hills Vineyard near Grandview, Washington, this Sangiovese also shows depth of character with layers of crayon, boysenberry, huckleberry and churchwood (worn, yet cared-for old wood). May not age as long as the fuller-bodied and finely structured Silverback Syrahs and blends, but some further evolution is possible, if not probable.
Full Review

2010 Syrah - 95pts
A dark, intense ruby coloured Syrah with a medium purple rim and a lovely sheen. Pulls you into its web at first sniff with layers of dark fruit, violets, tar, licorice, vanilla, subtle allspice and vibrant citrus notes. An excellent prelude to the concentrated palate that offers superb acidity and balance with fine tannins and long-lasting, spicy dark fruit flavours that role around your mouth with youthful abandon.
Full Review

2010 Référence - 94+pts
Fans of Blackwood Lane's 2006 and 2007 "Referènce" will enjoy a familiar blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec with Herrold's signature concentrated-yet-gentle and endlessly-layered graphite and dark fruit flavour profile. Classic Meritage berry fruit and savoury, gun powder and Christmas cake spice flavours add complexity to the finely tuned oak treatment and proprietary yeast program that Herrold employs. Ultra fine tannins and perfect acidity levels create a wine for enjoying in its youth or for aging 15+ years.
Full Review

2011 Reserve Syrah - 99pts
Charles decided to experiment with one barrel of his 100% free-run Syrah production from the 2011 vintage using a Bordeaux yeast normally reserved for Cabernet Sauvignon and the results are truly stunning. Violets, tar, cherry, licorice and citrus characters galore. This wine is as close to perfection as I've had the privilege to taste. Glaetzer's Amon-Ra springs to mind but with more depth, if that's even conceivable.  Of course, time will tell. Only 55 cases have been produced.
Full Review

 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Charles in Charge

Winemaker Charles Herrold heads south and things are looking up.

Photo courtesy of Celebrity Wine Tasting

 After a seemingly innocuous October departure from Langley-based Blackwood Lane, which he had co-founded with current winery president and now majority-owner Carlos Lee, winemaker Charles Herrold is more forthcoming on why he requested to be bought-out of the partnership. Differences in vision for the boutique winery, whose business model is to produce small-lot, ultra-premium wines and charge equally ultra-premium prices, are at the root of Herrold's desire to distance himself from the firm.

I had originally reported that upon his formal departure as winemaker in October, Herrold would remain a consultant to the winery which seemed wise due to the lengthy incubation of the firm's high-quality, Bordeaux-styled blends: The Referènce and The Alliànce. However, Herrold is eager to update that he no longer has any ties to the winery and is focusing his attention on his Washington State projects. This means that, for the Blackwood Lane faithful, the recently released 2007 Reference will be the last of the big reds to have been blended and shepherded by Herrold. Future releases are now under the direction of Lee who has taken over the head winemaker duties.

However, every winemaker I know is a proud poppa (or momma) to their wine and despite the split from Blackwood Lane, Herrold was enthusiastic to sit down with me to taste the new releases (now available via the winery's wine shop in Langley) and preview barrel samples from his new Washington State winery - yet unnamed.

The setting was at The Pearl on the Rock restaurant in White Rock while the restaurant was closed and the staff were busy prepping for the evening and attending to business. The business in question, on this afternoon, was a blending session with the executive chef, Jeremy Keighley, and wine director, Jordan Carrier, that was equal parts sales pitch and masterclass in the art and application of combining different varietals of together to produce a wine whose sum is greater than its parts.

Seeking a new white and red house blend, Pearl has hired Herrold to produce the wines for which he will use contracted and proprietary Washington State fruit - the focus of his winemaking activities post Blackwood Lane. Sitting in on a blending session is like witnessing the birth of a work of art or a creative idea - in physical form. The detail with which Herrold can speak to the properties and process behind each varietal is astonishing. One can see the passion and pride for his vocation in every description. From custom grooved oak barrels to attentive fruit selection, Herrold speaks with the demeanor of a master craftsman and the air of a minister inspiring his flock.

A Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling, all from the 2010 vintage, are tasted in order and then in various combinations. The consensus is that the clean and crisp Riesling is to be the backbone of the blend but that its muted nose needs a lift. First, the Gewurztraminer is tried and 15% is added to the Riesling - too sweet and oily. Next, 10% Pinot Gris is added to the Riesling and the missing aromatic element found - we have a winner.

The red varietals, except the Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope), are all from the Columbia Valley area known as The Benches. As with the whites, the red varietals (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Petit Verdot/Malbec bottled together) are each tasted separately to appreciate what each may bring to the finished blend. The Merlot: mid-palate expression of dark berries and major tannins. The Cab Franc: candied fruit and good acidity. The Cab Sauv: smoky texture and round tannins. And the Petit Verdot/Malbec: tobacco and toasted raspberries.

After various combinations and pricing considerations (the Cabernet Sauvignon is too expensive for a restaurant house wine) the consensus was a Cabernet Franc-heavy blend with both the Merlot and the Petit Verdot/Malbec added to round out the desired flavour profile. Follow The Pearl on the Rock on Twitter @PearlRestaurant for news on when the new blends will be available in house.
Also tasted during the session was a test blend of what Herrold expects to be his Referènce-like flagship red blend and a standalone Syrah for his new Washington State label. The Cabernet Sauvignon heavy blend shows great promise and classic Herrold character but needs time in barrel to come together (2012 release is estimated). The Syrah, with concentrated black cherry and white pepper notes, was absolutely outstanding and almost seemed ready for market. 95+ point territory for this barrel sample - simply divine. We will eagerly track the development of the new wines and winery and post follow-up information here and via our Twitter account @IconWines.

Notes on the new Blackwood Lane releases:

Blackwood Lane 2009 Pinot Noir - $44
Possibly, the quintesential BC Pinot Noir as it requires no "Burgundy-esk" or "Central Otago-like" descriptor. This Pinot is pure BC... and that's a major compliment.
Icon Score

Blackwood Lane 2008 Vicuna Roja - $24
A unique blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot and 10% Malbec, the 2008 Vicuna Roja makes for an excellent "entry" wine for a winery who's portfolio boasts some of the most expensive wines in Canada.
Icon Score

Blackwood Lane 2007 Cabernet Franc - $44
An excellent Cabernet Franc with red berry, cedar, licorice, spice and oak characters whose mid-palate has been filled-out with 10-12% Merlot adding to the excellent and succulent texture.
Icon Score

Blackwood Lane 2007 The Referènce - $99
A BC Wine icon whose nose possesses the depth and mystery of a Louis Carroll rabbit hole. Falling in can prove to be very rewarding and very expensive.
Icon Score
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2011 IconWines.ca

Charles Herrold Leaving Blackwood Lane

As Charles Herrold transitions from full-time winemaker and co-owner of Langley's Blackwood Lane Winery to his new role as consultant for the firm, his exit will be best characterized as a shuffle, rather than a sprint. A specific succession plan has not yet been enacted and Herrold will continue as consultant until such a time as the winery finds, or develops, a suitable replacement. 

In the winery's cellar sits several years worth of his wines patiently waiting to be released including three vintages of their flagship Bordeaux-style blend "The Reference" (the 2007 is soon to be bottled; the 2008 is blended and in barrel, the 2009's components are aging separately in barrel). The 2010 harvest and crush is still under Herrold's guidance and the winemaking will continue to follow the script he's developed over 20 years of experience.

Herrold has been increasing his holdings and connections in Washington state over the past several years and will be focusing more time on his yet un-named proprietary lable of premium, small-lot wines. Releases under this new lable will include a familiar, Reference-inspired blend of all five Bordeaux varietals (est. 500 cases), a small release of Petit Verdot (est. 50 cases) as well as two signature Washington state varietals: Syrah and Sangiovese (est. 100 cases each). It is, as of yet, unknown if the wines will become available in BC upon release.

As for Blackwood Lane, the stewardship of the brand will remain under the direction of majority owner Carlos Lee and will continue to focus on both ultra-premium releases like The Reference and mid-range wines like Vicuna Roja. The winery has recently purchased vineyards in the Osoyoos region which will give them greater control over quality and they will continue to develop their Langley property's vineyard potential.

We'll have more information on their upcoming 2007 vintages releases over the next few weeks.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Barrel Tasting at Blackwood Lane Winery

August 24th, 2009

Any modest chef will tell you that the best ingredients make the best dishes. Of course, as any layman knows, the best ingredients are only one part of the equation; you also need someone in charge who is a master at their craft. Such is the formula for Blackwood Lane Winery. (www.blackwoodlanewinery.com/)

Winemaker Charles Herrold sources the best grapes in the Okanagan from vineyards he and his partners either own or have secured on long-term lease. He employs the consulting services of renowned Viticulturist Sam Baptiste and uses the newest technology at their modest winery in the Fraser Valley. Herrold, over his 19 years of experience (and of experimentation), has refined his process to produce exceptional wines.

Herrold’s winemaking philosophy could be summed up as “pure”. He uses no additives for extra tannins or flavour but rather experiments with different oak barrels to add complexity to the final blend. He uses a “free-flow” method to extract juice for his icon wine, The Reference, which is to say that the best juice is allowed to flow from the crush prior to the final violent press. This helps impart a smoothness to the wine that allows the drinker to examine and appreciate the multitude of flavours and tannins. Simply amazing.

Blackwood Lane Winery is the brainchild of Herrold and business partner Carlos Lee. They have recently opened a tasting room (open 11-6, Wed-Sun) at their Langley facility where the wines are produced and aged. For a $10 tasting fee (which includes a take-home Riedel glass) you can try:

2008 Chenin Blanc ($24) - Sommelier Series
- Beautifully balanced acidity and mineral finish.
2008 Vicuna Blanco ($19) – Gold Label Series
- A mostly Alsatian blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Gewurztraminer.
2005 Chardonnay ($19) – Gold Label Series
- An oak-lovers treat. Butter bomb with perfect acidity to balance the flavours.
2005 Vicuna Roja ($24) – Gold Label Series
- Unique and very successful mélange of 42% Pinot Noir with the balance a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
2006 Alliance ($59) – Sommelier Series
- Powerhouse Bordeaux blend. 58.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 12.5% Cabernet Franc.

Look for full reviews of these wines over the next few weeks on our sister site: http://www.iconscores.blogspot.com/.

We also tasted the 2006 Reference ($89) which is Blackwood Lane’s signature and a true Canadian Icon Wine. To say this wine is a powerhouse of flavour is an understatement - it’s an entire power station of flavour. Yet, it is also full of refinement and complexity. This is a wine to watch and will surely be a cornerstone of the Icon Wines portfolio.

We were fortunate to be invited into the cellar for a barrel tasting:

The 2007 Alliance was tasted in its final blend and barrel: four-year smoked American Oak. This wine had all of the complexity of the current release.

The 2007 Reference is currently aging in four large barrels made of French Oak sourced from different forests. We tasted each barrel separately, and found that each barrel imparts a unique tannin and flavour. The 2007 may be the winery’s best vintage yet.

We also tried a new port-style wine which is nearly ready. This is a Merlot-based, brandy-fortified treat that should command a $90+ price. Keep your eyes out for its release sometime in 2010. - LC