Chilean Syrah

For lovers of Syrah, Chile may be the undiscovered country.

One of the pleasures of the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is the opportunity it provides to broaden your experience and knowledge of lessen-known delights. In a Wines of Chile sponsored guided tasting, hosted by Master of Wine Rhys Pender and wine educator DJ Kearney, I was afforded the chance to immerse myself into Syrah and explore its many incarnations in Chile's diverse terroir.

Aconcagua Valley
A short distance north from the capital city of Santiago lies the Aconcagua Valley with 1098 hectares of grapes planted mostly to red varieties including 94 hectares of Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon is king in Aconcagua making up nearly half of the total plantings (475) but a few producers are experimenting with Syrah creating pleasant, juicy and reasonably complex examples.

Viña Errázuriz 2009 Max Reserva Syrah - $19.99
Licorice, cherry liqueur aromas stand out above classic red fruit and spice layers. A more straight-forward palate follows with intense black cherry, round spice and balsamic flavours.
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Viña Arboleda 2009 Syrah - $21.99
You'll find pronounced aromatics on the nose with both fruit and savoury flavours on the palate. Violets and rose petal aromas are followed by concentrated raspberry, coffee grinds, smoke, mineral and black pepper notes.
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Limari Valley
The Limari Valley, Chile's second most northern wine growing region, sees less than 4 inches of rainfall on average per year. The intriguing terroir experiences a Carneros-like morning fog effect from the Pacific Ocean which burns off in the afternoon and exposes the vines to the intense sunlight into the evening. Syrah makes up less than 10% of the plantings in the region at 112 hectares. Expect mineral rich Syrah reminiscent of Saint Joseph.

Viña Tamaya 2010 Reserve Syrah - $19
Inspired by Northern Rhone vinification techniques, this Syrah is co-fermented with 5% Viognier and aged in French oak for 9-12 months creating an enticing Syrah with good minerality and aromatic elements.
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Elqui Valley
Nestled at the southern end of the Atacama desert, the vines of the Elqui Valley live a harsh life. Extreme sunlight is tempered by high altitude vineyards (some of the highest on Earth) where the term "cool-climate" is used freely. Syrah plantings make up only 29 of the 508 hectares of the region, but the variety is generating a lot of buzz.

Geo Wines 2009 Chono Syrah Reserva - $18
Originating from Chile's driest wine region, this savoury, terroir expressing Syrah offers a gorgeous palate of oak spice, minerals, smoked meats, leather and dark, brooding fruit.
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De Martino 2008 Alto Los Toros Syrah - $45
At 1600m above sea level, the Alto Los Toros vineyard is one of the highest altitude plantings in the world. The result is an excellent, dense, cool-climate Syrah with concentrated licorice, vanilla and red fruit flavours and loads of spicy, mineral notes.
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Colchagua Valley
One of Chile's largest and most diverse wine regions with over 23,000 hectares under vine, the Colchagua Valley is home to many of the country's best known brands like Cono Sur and Montes. Look for vineyard information when available with Alpalta and Ninquén being two of the best for Syrah.

Viña MontGras 2009 Antu Syrah - $21.99
Produced from fruit grown in the Ninquén Mountain Vineyard, Chile's first high altitude vineyard. Well balanced with good complexity and concentration for the price. Has the tannins and acid to age well, should you care to wait.
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Viña Ventisquero 2007 Pangea Syrah - $59.99
A full bodied wine that although offers plenty of classic Syrah red fruit notes, tends to be memorable for its layers of savoury and robust characters like smoked meats and white pepper.
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Viña Montes 2007 Montes Folly - $86.99
Produced from 17-18 year old vines from the Alpalta vineyard that are really producing some amazing fruit. Remains the champion of all South American Syrah and the wine to gauge against.
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 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Diva(s) at the Met

"Every bottle tells a story."

A popular phrase in the wine industry and a view of wine that I share, however, it must be noted that not every story is well written or entertaining. At the 4th annual Diva(s) at the Met event, part of the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival program, the audience was treated to 6 stories authored by 6 accomplished and entertaining women who shared their personal connection to the products on offer and to the industry they love, one so often dominated by men.

Hosted by Vancouver's Daenna Van Mulligan, better known as The Wine Diva (@TheWineDiva), the evening is equal parts pious and playful. At the heart of it Diva(s) at the Met shines a deserved spotlight on the talented and extremely passionate women who work in wine alloting them a showcase to do what women do best; share. Sharing their personal stories, their history, their knowledge and sharing their passion for wine that transcends gender inequality and serves to inspire more women to join the profession. 6 stories, all charming in their own way.

#1 - Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Columbia Valley Chardonnay - 86pts
This buttery, orchard-fruit-aplenty Chardonnay from Washington State's largest winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle was presented by export manager Alexandra LaFontaine who discussed her long circle back to wine after following a few boys around the world and working in other industries. A fairly straight-forward Chardonnay with nice acid and MLF notes.

#2 - Peller Estates 2009 Rivate Reserve Syrah - 87pts
Stephanie Leinemann, the winemaker at Peller Estates Okanagan, was up next and presented a very drinkable, medium-bodied Syrah from the winery's Private Reserve line. Stephanie represents a generation of winemakers who are in their first career and who were charmed by the industry at a younger age. After studying at Brock University she returned to her native Okanagan to work for Peller. Simple and satisfying, this Syrah offers good typicity for the variety in BC for under $20.

#3 - Bodega Elias Mora 2007 Gran Elias Mora - 90-91pts
Wine #3 was presented by both the exporter, Natalie Bonhomme (also an accomplished winemaker with her own label) and by the winemaker herself, Victoria Benavides, a petite and charming women sporting bright lipstick red shoes. In broken English, Victoria described her passion for winemaking and for her excellent flagship wine, the Gran Elias Mora, a delicious, feminine and tannic Tempranillo produced in the Toro region of Spain. Unfortunately, this wine is not available in Canada.

#4 - Lapostelle 2010 Cuvee Alexandre Carmenere - 89+pts
A serious and oaky Carmenere presented by the winemaker, Andrea Leon Iriarte, a woman who found great success in the wine industry at a young age and could have settled in any of the world's major regions (of which she worked many). She chose, however, to return to her native Chile to start a family and produce world renown wines all the same. Sadly, another wine fest bottle that is not available in Canada

#5 - Bergevin Lane 2009 Wild Child Merlot - 88pts
Annette Bergevin, one third of the ownership group of Walla Walla winery Bergevin Lane, presented the firm's entry level Merlot, a tasty wine that opened up through the evening but one that suffered from a surprisingly short and forgettable finish. Annette focused her story on the formation of the winery with
business partner Amber Lane and her grape-growing father Gary Bergevin. The famed Canoe Ridge vineyard is their playground and offers a unique terroir to explore and cultivate into their multi-tiered line of wines.

#6 - Yalumba Wines 2007 "The Menzies" Cabernet Sauvignon - 91pts
As the last presenter, Jane Ferrari, the communications director for Australia's Yalumba, stole the show by going with a well executed comedic tale rather than deliver the 6th "how I got into wine" story of the evening. A seasoned veteran of the personal approach to selling wine, Jane spoke mostly about the family behind the Yalumba brand, the Smith family from Angaston, adding a relatable element to the fine Cabernet Sauvignon that finished off the evening. Fairly light for an Aussie Cab, the wine comes from Coonawarra fruit grown on limestone vineyards. Has the weight and refinement of a fine super Tuscan.

Vancouver Wine Fest Lives On!

The sad news that the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company was closing was shortly followed by happy news for BC wine lovers that the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival will live on. Run as a separate business entity, the wine fest may undergo some re-branding before next year's event but we can expect the same efficiency and attention to detail that makes our home market wine fest one of the most respected and best attended in the world.

From the winery principals I spoke to, including Brian Lynn, the proprietor of Majella Wines in Coonawarra, I heard rave reviews on how the festival is run behind-the-scenes where small things like a properly communicated schedule go a long way to making our international visitors feel welcomed. Lynn also mentioned the amazing volunteers who he credited most for making the Vancouver festival a must-attend event for their small winery.

Next year's theme region has already been announced as California and the global focus is Chardonnay. Hopefully, this will mean a higher attendance of wineries from Burgundy, a famed region for Chardonnay that was under represented at the 2012 festival.

Keep an eye on the festival website for more information on next year's event: www.playhousewinefest.com

#VPIWF: 10 Wines 2 Try

Veterans of the Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival will attest - you must have a game plan when entering the 50,000+ square foot tasting room. Pros will sometimes split whites and reds over two days of tastings, while others make focus on one or two varieties or styles. Whatever the plan, the reality is most are lucky to taste 40-50% of the wines on offer over multiple visits. If you're neither a wine professional nor a veteran of the festival than let me suggest 10 wines to seek out while you attack the room and, ideally, taste many more. Think of this list as the reason to keep moving and exploring the nearly 2000 wines on offer.

1: Chile - Viña Montes - "Montes Folly"
Chile is the Global Focus for the 2012 festival and talk of the emergence of Chilean Syrah will be buzzing around the tasting floor. None is better than the Folly. Elegant and superbly refined. Tasting notes on the 2006 vintage.

2: Italy - Antinori "Tignanello"
Seek this wine out for two reasons. 1) It's a $100+ bottle of wine that once you taste you'll think to yourself, "Yes it is!" and 2) The Tignanello is the quintessential Super Tuscan that will give you a glimpse as to what all the fuss is about with this popular collectors choice.

3: Canada - Painted Rock Estate Winery - "Red Icon"
If time allows then by all means try the complete Painted Rock portfolio, you won't be disappointed. However, if you have time for only one wine then it must be the Red Icon. It's a worthy member of this top 10 list for its unique blend and gorgeous refinement. A pricey wine to be sure, but one you just might seek out at the BC Liquor Store attached to the festival tasting floor. Tasting notes on the 2008 and 2009 vintages.

4: Australia - Yalumba "FDR1A"
Clearly, this is not Pendfolds' Bin 389, but it is a great Aussie Cab-Shiraz blend with a long history dating back to 1974 when the first "Fine Dry Red 1A" was released by Australia's oldest winery, Yalumba. Force your way up to the front to get poured a sip of Australian history.

5: USA - Stag's Leap Wine Cellars - "Artemis"
The Artemis is a blended Cabernet Sauvignon from multiple Napa Valley lots (only a few from the famed Stag's Leap District) which may not offer a single terroir experience but does deliver constantly expressive fruit, excellent balance and elegant structure year-in, year-out. Yummy, chewy Chardonnays are also worth a taste.

6: Australia - Majella Wines "Sparkling Shiraz"
Most folks like their bubbles blond and French but the growing trend of pink Champagne and Cava may help to bring the fizz drinking public round to Australia's own, Sparkling Shiraz. The Majella offering is made in the traditional method of Champagne and finds the balance of representing the characters of a fine Shiraz with that of a cold, refreshing drink. Must be tasted to be believed. Notes on their 2005 release.

7: Canada - Mission Hill Family Estate - "Oculus"
The 2007 Oculus was worth the hype. When I first tasted it at the 2011 festival it blew me away with its concentration and complexity. Unfortunately, the winery decided to only make it available through their own wine shop and thus I have not tasted it since, nor have I been able to review it. No news yet on which vintage the Kelowna winery will be pouring of their flagship wines. Tasting notes on the 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages.

8: France - M. Chapoutier "La Bernardine"
Michel Chapoutier has a growing portfolio of wines with new entries from lesser-know regions like Côtes-du-Roussillon, but his heart remains in the Rhone Valley. La Bernardine is a fixture of the portfolio and offers excellent typicity for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Look for subtle yet complex, cassis and plum fruit with garrique, spice and earth notes.

9: Canada - Tawse Winery - Cabernet Franc
There really isn't anything that Tawse Winery, the sole Ontario firm to make the trip this year, can't do well-to-great. For me it's a toss-up as to what they truly do "best" between Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc but since many regions and appellations make excellent Chardonnay, my suggestion is to make sure and try the Tawse Cabernet Franc - a uniquely Canadian example of the Bordeaux variety. Preferably, request to taste the Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc.

10: USA - Chateau Ste. Michelle - "Eroica"
Produced in the Columbia Valley, the Eroica Riesling is a joint venture with Germany's Dr. Loosen. One can only hope that Chateau Ste. Michelle will be wise enough to bring this amazing Riesling with them to the festival. Truly one of the best Rieslings I have yet tasted. Notes on the 2008 and 2009 vintages.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Sometimes They Get It Right

BCLDB showing their seldom seen flexibility at the VPIWF

To give credit where credit is due, the upcoming Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival (#VPIWF) will have some great options for consumers during the three nights the International Tasting Room is open to the public. Nightly, March 1st through 3rd, the participating wineries will be pouring their wares for ticket holders eager to explore the variety of otherwise unavailable or unattainable wines on offer. Should consumers fall in love with a wine and want to purchase, the BCLDB will have an on-site wine store set-up with some unique options for shoppers:

• A free bottle check service allowing you to purchase early in the evening and have the wines set aside for you to pick up when you leave.
• Or, take advantage of the free shipping service to your local BC Liquor Store.
• Then get home safely with a complimentary single zone transit ticket from the BC Liquor Stores Get Home Safe booth.

It's easy to be critical of a monopolistic government body that controls every aspect of the wine business in the Province of BC with occasional joyless autocracy, but sometimes the BCLDB gets it right and needs to be commended. So, congratulations to the Liquor Board and the organizers of the festival for thinking of ways of making the purchasing and consumption of wine feel more like the positive experience it should be rather than the burden on society it is often likened to.

Reflections on the Canadian Wines Poured at the VPIWF

After each year's Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival I vow to attend more events the following year and in 2011 I find myself making this pledge yet again. It sneaks up on me and then is gone in a flash leaving me in its wake with nothing but notes collected from the trade tasting.

The focus of this site is the fabulous homegrown wines we produce in Canada and thus my notes reflect this focus. The festival provides the rare treat of tasting Canadian wines in a global context and I believe they fare extremely well when compared to the rest of the world. "Value" is relative and a subject for another story but the quality and character of Canadian wines fares very well.

Herder Winery and Vineyards
Owners Sharon and Lawrence Herder were on hand to showcase their wines at the only wine festival they pour at. A sneak peak at the upcoming 2008 Josephine was the main attraction - their old-world leaning, complex and textured Meritage blend. It won't be released until October for good reason as the wine shows great promise but was tasting very young and is not yet ready for market. Also on offer was a new entry-level 2009 Chardonnay (as opposed to their $35 Twin Benches Chardonnay not yet released), a 2008 Syrah with a lovely nose and a 2008 Merlot which was surprisingly powerful.  www.herder.ca/

Mission Hill Estate Winery
Mission Hill was pouring their legacy series wines (the big boys) alongside a new Reserve-level Viognier. The Viognier was of the tart and crisp variety rather than the richly-textured version that is so popular in BC these days. The legacy series wines are fronted by the showpiece of their portfolio, the 2007 Oculus which has recently garnered a lot of praise (including 95pts from James Suckling). Is it as good as folks say? Well, having tasted it only once at a festival it's hard for me to say in detail or truly pass judgement... but it just might be the best Oculus yet! www.missionhillwinery.com/

Osoyoos Larose
The Vincor partnered winery were pouring their excellent entry-level 2007 Petales d'Osoyoos blend and three vintages of the namesake Osoyoos Larose "Grande Vin". The 2006 is aging well showing firm tannins. The much-lauded 2007 has a gorgeous nose but is still quite youthful and needs more time in the bottle to mellow. The 2008 won't be released until the fall and shows the green tannins of a less than ideal ripening vintage. www.osoyooslarose.com/

Painted Rock Estate Winery
Proprietor John Skinner was pouring wines from his up-coming 2008 releases and their 2009 Chardonnay which was released last fall. The star of the line-up is the new 2008 Red Icon which has subsequently been released just this week due, in part, to industry feedback at the trade tasting. Half as much Red Icon was produced in 2008 as their inaugural release in 2007 due to self-imposed low yields in response to the tricky 2008 growing season. Also, no Cabernet Sauvignon was used in the Red Icon blend in 2008 which should mean more of the single varietal release will be available this year. www.paintedrock.ca/

Quails' Gate Estate Winery
Quails' Gate were pouring a couple of their recently released 2010 whites: the excellent and very crisp Chenin Blanc and the juicy and fresh Gewurztraminer. The two Stewart Family Reserve wines (a Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir) were fantastic: structured and expertly oaked. Especially the Pinot whose texture and refinement impressed me greatly. www.quailsgate.com/

Sperling Vineyards
Sperling was pouring their entire line-up of wines except their most popular and successful wine "Market White" which is a blend of aromatic varietals. The whole line-up, a Riesling, an Old Vines Riesling, Pinot gris and Gewurztraminer were mostly quite low in alcohol and high in residual sugar.  www.sperlingvineyards.com/

Wayne Gretzky Estate Wines
Sadly, only three Ontario wineries made it to the festival. Henry of Pelham was showcasing their decent entry-level "Sibling Rivalry" red and white blends and Pillitteri was showcasing their icewines. The Wayne Gretzky Estate Wines impressed me the most with a succulent Sauvignon Blanc, an easy-drinking Riesling and a fabulous, low-alcohol Cabernet-Merlot "Estate Series" blend. Hopefully, we will see more of these surprisingly good wines out west.  http://www.gretzkyestateswines.com/

A few other wines of note:

Tantalus have released their newest addition to their small line-up: the 2009 Chardonnay. Priced at $30 it enters the stiff competitive world of BC top-end Chards... and fares well. Cool, crisp, mineral and well balanced. A nice addition to the fray.

The 2010 Small Lot Viognier from Sandhill seems to be a return to the more tart territory of the award winning 2008 vintage after the 2009 version charmed us with its hot-vintage-richness.

Hester Creek have been through a recent brand updating exercise and have two new proprietary blends (a white and a red) called "Character" which seem poised to take on the well-priced and fellow Golden Mile Bench "Honest John's" products from Road 13 Vineyards.