Cab!

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).



Cab!

By Jordan Carrier

(Sung to the tune of the theme song of Shaft)

Who’s the thick-skinned grape that’s a hit with all the folks who rate? (Cab!) You’re darn right.

Who has the tannin that could do a lesser man in? (Cab!) Cab you dig it?

Who’s got body so mighty, it slays all other varieties? (Cab!) Right on.

It’s a complicated grape, but no one understands it like…

Honestly I’m surprised you let me get this far, my apologies to all those who are still reading this email. Here are a few 2014 vintage Cabernet-based wines from the U.S. and France:

Joseph Phelps 2014 Insignia, Napa Valley

One of Napa’s Crown Princes, from the middle of the region’s golden streak of vintages, ironically elevated by the long drought. I had the opportunity to taste this vintage alongside the previous 2013, and the differences are slight but noticeable. The ’13 has a more friendly fruit weight but the ’14 is structured, dense and timeless, perhaps due to the rare omission of Merlot in that year’s blend. As close as Insignia has come to the “classic Napa” style in some time, with chocolate and coffee notes bracing the “Night Of A Thousand Berries” nose that is so characteristically Phelps. 2014 is Motorhead compared with 2013’s Elton John, focused and hardcore, not really caring what you think of it… yet. Another Insignia for the ages. 97 points Vinous, 97 points James Suckling, 96 points Robert Parker, 4 6-packs available, $354.99 +tax

Sheridan 2014 “L’Orage” Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, Washington State

I’m now conditioned to salivate every time I see a 2014 Washington wine, but L’Orage additionally brings a kind of Rutherford-y thickness to the flinty structure usually prominent in Washington Cabs. Blended with a nano-smidge of Cabernet Franc, this beast is all sourced from owner/winemaker Scott Greer’s hilltop estate in the Yakima Valley where, if the finish of this wine is any indication, he must also produce rocket launchers. There is nothing restrained or conservative about the nose and body -  dark berry preserves stirred with cinnamon sticks and pipe tobacco baked into a weird pie - the “classic Washington” vibes only enter at the end, where the fine tannins try to contain the glycerin, the same way a kiddie pool tries to contain a bunch of otters. Wondrous stuff, this. 96 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs available, $73.99 +tax

Chateau Landiras 2014, Graves, Bordeaux

Ok, I’m cheating because this is a little over half Merlot, but the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend punches well above its percentage and commands the nose, bursting with cassis, licorice, kirsch and fresh redcurrants. The lift and tannic structure on the finish reveal the youth of the vintage (the French would call this finish “crunchy” because they are French), but Landiras, a new-ish winery started by Bordeaux architect Michel Pelisse, can drink well now with food, or cellar for another decade. Terrific value on this, with a body to match. We’ll be pouring this on Saturday at 3pm in the River District Vintage Room if you’d like to try it (we’ll also be pouring a few other Bordeaux wines TBA). 95 points Decanter, Platinum Medal Decanter World Wine Awards, 10 cases available, $42.99 +tax

Try This, Cellar That - South African Cab Sauv

This week we feature Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa:

Try This...

Graham Beck Wines 2011 The Game Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - $18
Over-delivers for the price with a uniquely South African Cabernet Sauvignon blend of smoky incense, mocha and spicy plum fruit aromas on the feminine nose. Acid is quite fresh, keeping the mouth feel vibrant and alive, while graphite tannins help frame the fruit and add some structure. 
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Cellar That...

Nederburg Wines 2011 Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon - $19
Offers a pleasing mixture of ripe berry fruit, mocha, smoky oak and allspice aromas. The palate has a hint of residual sugar, thus, not truly 'dry', and the fruit from the nose takes a back seat to the smoky oak and mineral flavours on offer while smooth, mannered tannins mingle with wild berry acidity adding structure. A refreshingly balanced Cabernet Sauvignon for the under $20 price-point and one with which you can easily afford to experiment with mid-to-long term cellaring to reveal mature Cabernet flavours and further tannin integration.
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 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2014 IconWines.ca

Flicks and Flights: Bottle Shock

The Flick: "Bottle Shock" directed by Randall Miller, starring Chris Pine and Alan Rickman

The Flight: Grgich Hills Estate California Chardonnay, Meursault 1er Charmes White Burgundy, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Artemis California Cabernet, Clos du Marquis Red Bordeaux

Bottleshock is a fictionalized account of the factual events which lead to a Californian Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon outscoring Burgundy Grand Cru and Bordeaux First Growth wines at the Steven Spurrier organized competition now known as the “Judgment of Paris”. This, now mythical tasting from 1976, announced the arrival of quality New World wines and challenged the presumption of French wine dominance. Long is the list of historical inaccuracies that litter the movie’s plot including the complete omission of winemaker Mike Grgich, who was instrumental in creating the winning Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena, and in the introduction of Wine Sharking where winery workers dupe unsuspecting local bar patrons into betting against one’s ability to correctly guess the vintage, label and blend of a series of wines tasted blind.

The plot intertwines Spurrier’s conception of the tasting and trip to California to acquire the appropriate challengers with the strained father-son relationship of winery co-owner Jim Barrett and his hippy-living son Beau. Spurrier weaves the kooky world of 1970’s Napa valley winery personalities while father and son learn to communicate in an effort to save the beloved family business and succeed in Paris. Fairly formulaic.

The film suffers from a poorly paced and conceived script that would have been wiser to stick to the trials and triumphs of the actual events (as captured in the book Judgment of Paris by George M. Taber) rather than focus on made-up characters and wine hijinks like the aforementioned Wine Sharking. However, for wine lovers, watching Alan Rickman as Spurrier wax poetic about the intricacies and delights of a great glass of wine will save the film, mostly. He chews-up the scenery with his reserved and inherently snooty Britishness, pointed speech and elaborated diction – ok, I’m describing most Alan Rickman roles. Whatever. This one is about wine! Rent it and follow along with...

The Bottle Shock Drinking Game:

1. Take a sip of California Chardonnay every time…The editor cuts to sweeping helicopter shots of vineyards in an effort to connect poorly paced scenes of the two competing narratives.
2. Take a sip of White Burgundy every time…You see an iconic Citroen DS or a chain-smoking old man with a baret in a scene to reinforce the setting is in France.
3. Take a sip of California Cabernet every time…The film overreaches with an awkward social comment on gender or race inequality in 1970's Napa Valley by way of its motley crew of society challenging misfits.
4. Finish the bottle of red Bordeaux once…You realize that, despite the tittle of the film, the key, plot-moving wine fault is never attributed to the unsettling caused by the vibrations of transportation, aka actual “bottle shock”. Whoops!

- Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Best of Niagara: Cabernet

The Niagara Peninsula is slowly developing an international reputation as one of the world's premier locations to grow Cabernet Franc, even getting a mention in a recent edition of Britain's Decanter Magazine. An August 2010 trip to the region confirmed for us that the hype is for real. below is a list of our favourite Cabernet Franc from the region along with a few top notch Cabernet Sauvignon wines for good measure. Arranged by price point.

$20 and below:

Chateau Des Charmes 2007 Cabernet Franc - $14
This Cab Franc offers medium-intense aromas of dark berries, wet stone, forest floor with subtle pungent cheese notes. The aromas continue on to the medium-plus bodied palate, adding a touch of cooking spice to the flavours. Where to buy: LCBO stores, BCLDB stores and direct from winery.
Full Review

Angels Gate Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc - $17
A blend from three vineyards: Marcus, Crispino and St. John. 12 month in French oak. Well balanced with an excellent track record of quality. Fruit forward with lower tannins. Excellent value. Where to buy: Direct from winery and online.

$30 and below:

Coyote's Run Estate Winery 2008 Black Paw Vineyard Cabernet Franc - $22
Possibly, the best value for quality on the Peninsula in regards to Cabernet Franc. The Coyote's Run Cabernet Franc offers impressive concentration of aromas and flavours for the tough 2008 vintage. Intense aromas of red fruit, baking spice and black tea with earthy and green vegetal notes on the nose. The dry palate has integrated tannins with good acidity and concentrated flavours of plum, blueberry and anise. Where to buy: Select LCBO stores and direct from winery or online.
Full Review

Tawse Winery 2008 Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc - $30
An excellent wine that combines all of the qualities a Niagara Cabernet Franc can posses: complexity, elegance, intensity and funkiness. Coffee grounds, caramel, plum aromas with flavours of juicy blueberry, minerality and round tannins. Sophisticated. Where to buy: Direct from winery or online.
Full Review

$40 and below:

Marynissen Estates 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Lot 31 - $36
Good concentration of fruit on the nose and palate. The 2007 vintage was strong for Cabernet Sauvignon with good phenolic ripeness. Where to buy: Direct from winery.

Stratus Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc - $38
Aromas of smoke, caramel, oak, vanilla, dark fruits and cured meet. Flavours of blueberry, oak and leather with elegant, super smooth tannins. Built to last. Where to buy: Direct from winery or online.
Full Review

Thirty Bench Estate Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc - $40
Happily, this Thirty Bench offering takes a different road to many of the other top Cabernet Franc of Niagara. Ultimately, the destination is the same but when they zig, the Thirty Bench zags. More elegant and subtle in approach with layers of complexity waiting to be discovered. Needs time. Where to buy: Direct from winery or online.
Full Review - Coming soon

Best of BC: Cabernet

In a 2009 summary of their annual wine awards, Wine Access Magazine pondered if Cabernet Sauvignon should be grown in Canada suggesting that producer's efforts could be better spent elsewhere. In some cases they may be right. Cabernet Sauvignon is notoriously hard to ripen and many examples in Canada exhibit a green tannin character that no amount of aging will mellow or ripen. However, to say that we can't grow Cabernet Sauvignon as a nation, at all, is simply wrong. Producers are working hard to discover the best plots in their regions where the right clones of Cabernet Sauvignon will ripen beautifully producing fantastic wines. Below are some of our favourite examples from BC.

In an acknowledgement that the list of high quality Cabernet Sauvignons in BC is short, we've combined this list with our favourite Cabernet Francs.

Cabernet Franc is red grape that, along with Syrah, may prove to be one of BC's signature grapes in the near future. Producers are discovering that when properly ripened, the Cabernet Franc grape can produce charming and unique wines on its own without the need of blending (or much blending).

$20 and below:

Tinhorn Creek 2009 Cabernet Franc - $20
Perhaps it was the hotter than average vintage, or the fact the vines are now over 15+ years old, or the tried and tested winemaking techniques of Sandra Oldfield (or all of the above?). Whatever the case, Tinhorn have a real winner on their hands with this one. And it's only $20! Where to buy: BCLDB, VQA stores and direct from winery.
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Neck of the Woods Winery 2010 Backyard Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - $20
a good balance between sweet dark fruit and savoury oak and vegetal characters resulting in a wine that delivers the structure you want from a Cabernet Sauvignon without the lofty price point and without resorting to added sugar to boost-up the body. Where to buy: VQA stores and direct from winery.
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$30 and below:

Gold Hill Winery 2009 Cabernet Franc - $25
This gorgeous wine exemplifies what Cabernet Franc can achieve at the southern end of the Okanagan Valley when planted in the right places. Rightfully so, this Franc has been reaping in the awards for Gold Hill since its release last year and shows excellent potential as the signature red wine for their Golden Mile Bench vineyard. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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River Stone Estate Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc - $26
The winemaking team at River Stone Estate Winery certainly prove with the release of this tasty Cabernet Franc that they are adept at producing a rich and complex dry red wine with lower alcohol (13.6%). Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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La Frenz Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon - $27
Big winner at the 2010 All Canadian Wine Competition winning the "Best Cabernet Sauvignon over $25" category. We recommend cellaring this beauty for two years before opening it. however, if you can't wait, you'll get ripe, round tannins and big dark berry flavours. Where to buy: Direct from winery. Select restaurants.
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Fairview Cellars 2010 Cabernet Franc - $27
A cool, but long 2010 growing season has given birth to a low alcohol and nuanced Cabernet Franc that offers a warm, feminine nose of violets, mandarin peel, ripe blackberry, boysenberry and soft oak aromas. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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$40 and below:

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2009 Cabernet Franc - $33
Concentrated red fruit, sweet oak and mild, persistent spice follows on the elegant palate with well balanced levels of tannin and acid. The finish lingers lovingly in your mouth. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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Fairview Cellars 2009 Premier Series Cabernet Sauvignon - $40
was a great year for the Fairview Cabernet wines. The hotter than average vintage ripened the thick skinned grape perfectly creating a dense, powerful and layered cool-climate Cabernet Sauvignon bursting with dark blue fruits and savoury black licorice on the seductive nose and intense palate. Where to buy: Direct from winery and select private wine shops.
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Painted Rock Estate Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon - $40
This Cabernet Sauvignon from Painted Rock Estate Winery presents the fabled Bordeaux varietal in its near-ideal, cool-climate form: fully ripe tannins and expressive dark fruit characters that benefit greatly from the élevage program of 100% new French oak resulting in a cool, refined and complex wine of distinction. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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Rollingdale Winery 2007 "La Gauche" Cabernet Sauvignon - $40
Intense aromas of mocha espresso, cherry nibs, dark berries, cassis and licorice on the nose are followed by meaty flavours of leather, oak, earthy minerality and vanilla with a touch of dark fruits on the palate. Moderate alcohol, high acidity and integrated tannins contribute to a medium-bodied palate. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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WCOW: South Africa Single Red Varietal Nationals

Country: South Africa

Manager: Hugh Carter

South Africa is growing in prominence as a wine region in the West. It has long been a prolific supplier of bargain wines to North America while its higher-end wines remained harder to track down. This trend seems to be diminishing with more quality product coming to our shores. Great to see as SA offers unique wines like Pinotage and does admirably with classic European varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine #1: K.W.V. Cathedral Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Region: Paarl
Cost: $19.99
Notes: Smooth with good fruit concentration and a beautifully complex nose.
Score: 88
Full Review: Follow Link

Wine #2: Beyerskloof 2007 Pinotage
Region: Stellenbosch
Cost: $15.99
Notes: The nose exhibits band-aid (in a good way) and coffee aromas which continue onto the palate with notes of strawberry. Light and flavourful.
Score: 87
Full Review: Follow Link

Conclusion: The Cathedral Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon takes this round due to its excellent complexity and silkiness in the glass.