Featured Wines: The Quaran-Vine Papers #4: Pinots of Privilege

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).

The Quaran-Vine Papers #4: Pinots of Privilege

By Jordan Carrier

Hi Everyone!

Like many “essential” workers, I have come to know quite a bit about masks and gloves, lately. Gloves are a complex topic that we talk a lot about, here, with different pros and cons:

THINGS GLOVES MAKE EASIER
- Not touching my face (prime directive, 90% success rate)
- Picking up boxes of wine (omg so much better, I’m like Spiderman)
- Protecting against an angry cat (see below)

THINGS GLOVES MAKE HARDER
- Picking up a pen (why can’t they be bigger?)
- Taking a piece of @#*% paper out of a @#*% envelope (@#&% #$)
- Petting a cat (see above)

But our topic for today’s read is Pinot Noir, and the access I temporarily have to some wines that were reserved only for restaurants. PLEASE understand that I would trade back this access in a nanosecond if it meant that my restaurant brethren could fully return to work, but for now I can offer some amazing Pinots to you:

B.C.

Blue Mountain Block Series, Okanagan Falls. The Mavety family has spent the last few years identifying which areas of their original vineyard near OK Falls (one of the only own-rooted, ungrafted sites in the province) made the most distinct statements of Pinot Noir, and this is the maiden vintage of those terroir-driven bottlings. I have long been a fan of Blue Mountain, and I’m unsurprised to see them leading the charge towards a more Burgundian, geographic designation concept for BC (Oregon is already largely there).

Blue Mountain 2017 Pinot Noir Block 23 River Flow

The prettiest Pinot from the top of the hill, light and graceful from a sandy block with almost northern exposure. Red fruited and elegant with soft tannins, lovely. 12 bottles available, $54.98 +tax

Blue Mountain 2017 Pinot Noir Block 14 Gravel Force

As the name suggests, this is rocky soil with bits of clay acting as a sauce. Southwestern exposure means deeper everything: colour, body and tannin, with tangible strength and lots of layers. 12 bottles available, $54.98 +tax

Blue Mountain 2017Pinot Noir Block 9 Wild Terrain

The wild card with the most diverse aspects, steepest slopes, windiest area and sunniest part of the vineyard. This collection of extremes offers a gorgeously savoury, racy Pinot with herbs and flowers. 12 bottles available, $54.98 +tax.

Little Engine 2018 Pinot Noir Silver, Naramata

A bunch of us “Wine Types” went up to a special tasting at the French Family’s Naramata winery a couple years ago (so gorgeous up there, sigh), where we were treated to a blind comparison of Little Engine Pinots vs. Oregonian and Californian offerings. Two things crossed my mind, 1) wow, even the cheapest tier (silver) of this house really holds up against the Yanks and 2) the contrasting choice was fairly revealing as to where Little Engine’s compass is oriented. Almost every premium BC Pinot mentions Burgundy in their marketing, either as a North Star or (more incredulously) as an analog; Little Engine is admirably happy being a West Coast Pinot, full of fruit and fun and occasional punches to the face. This 2018 is vibrant and loud with cherry and dried strawberry notes, hints of fig and herbs toward a pretty darn satisfying medium-full mouthfeel with supportive (not racy) acidity. 2 cases (of 12) available, $41.98 +tax

Martin’s Lane 2015 Pinot Noir Simes Vineyard, Kelowna

Martin’s Lane has come a long way since this little offshoot of Mission Hill won its Pinot category at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Now its own winery with its own winemaker (New Zealander Shane Munn), Martin’s Lane has wisely narrowed their focus to perfecting two varieties: Riesling and Pinot Noir. Planted in 2008 and named after Mission Hill’s Wine Wiz John Simes, this vineyard near Kelowna boasts a rare northern aspect with Pinot at the top of the hill, allowing a long hang time for phenolic ripeness whilst keeping that bracing acidity that helped it beat its competitors years ago. Ripe cherries, cola and flint notes dive into a soft bath of plums and flowers. The bottle says 14% alcohol but it drinks like 12%. Quite lovely indeed. 12 bottles available, $100.98 +tax

FRANCE

Gerard Raphet 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy

The perfect way to tell 10-years-from-now you that you’re special and deserving of love. The 100-year-old rows near the top of this Grand Cru near Morey-Saint-Denis make very little juice, but what is produced is deep and earthen with hues of licorice and baking spice amongst the black cherries, the tannins are still at fighting weight but should soften enough to slip into a supporting role in a few years. Raphet is the Burgundian winemaker that other Burgundian winemakers drink, I’m discovering. 3 bottles available, $306.98 +tax

Domaine Faiveley 2017 Corton-Clos-des-Cortons-Faiveley Grand Cru Monopole, Burgundy

One of the precious few Grand Cru Monopoles (whole appellation owned by one house) in existence, the Faiveley family has farmed this patch since 1873, and besides being a blessed, east-facing terroir with a reputation for making Cellar Stars, it’s also one of only two Grand Cru Monopoles that bear the name of the family (the other is DRC). The 2017 vintage was one of those rare nothing-horrible-happened years that the family calls “classic” in style, spicy cherries constrained by bracing minerality that’ll develop amazingly over the coming decade but with enough fruit to drink earlier – unlike many vintages from this cru it doesn’t drink like a wolverine who stubbed his toe. Energetic but generous. 3 bottles available, $330.98 +tax

Marquis d’Angerville 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds, Burgundy

So synonymous are the d’Angervilles with the village of Volnay that 1) you’d need to go back several centuries to find a time when they weren’t there, and 2) they’ve been farming these same vineyards so long that the grapes are now their own recognized clone of Pinot Noir, Pinot d’Angerville. The current Marquis is Guillaume d’Angerville, who took over after his father’s premature passing in 2003, and he makes the kind of Volnay that reaffirms why this is pretty much my favourite village: gorgeously textured, silken delivery with just the right balance of perfume and stank. The gamey, herbal notes are countered by opulent deep blackberry and licorice, I think we’re 5 years away from the Golden Years here but the universe wouldn’t retaliate if you gave in to your urges now. 3 bottles available, $270.98 +tax

Butterfield 2008 Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy

I’ve introduced David Butterfield to you before – he’s the Canadian who trained under Jadot’s crazy druid Jacques Lardières – but I kind of hit the jackpot in both vintage and value with this amazeballs 2008 Corton, $156 would be peanuts for this Grand Cru in a new release let alone a library one (this is straight from his cellar). Taken from the tiny Pugets lieu-dit in Corton, this is an elegant, perfumed expression of the Cru with black cherries and leather taking centre stage – one need not wait for this, all engines are engaged. Doubtful that I’ll be able to get this again. 2 6-packs available, $156.98 +tax

Maison Roche de Bellene 2002 “Collection Bellenum” Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Burgundy

I tucked this one near the end to reward diligent readers: Bellene’s Nicolas Potel recently embarked on a new project: to liberate the cellars of his colleagues (as well as his own) and sell back-vintaged Burgundy for reasonable prices (in context, naturally). This 2002 Beaune Grèves exudes red fruits and flowers over spice and forest floor, and drinks like a dream as long as your dream involves dried cherries. I don’t expect to be able to get this again either. 9 bottles available, $119.98 +tax

USA

Lindstrom 2016 Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma

Greg and Carol Lindstrom only produce two wines, a Napa Cab and this Sonoma Pinot, both of which are made by Celia Welch – the winemaker of Screaming Eagle peers Scarecrow and Staglin (and she was 2008 Winemaker Of The Year) – which seems like hiring Spielberg to direct your Tik Tok video but she loves the fruit these vineyards produce, the collab was her idea. Only 200 cases were made of the Dutton Ranch 2016 Pinot (in the US you can only get this at the winery) and we have the only ones that came into BC because we are very clever (usually goes to restaurants). Cherry cola and cinnamon swirl around soft cedar notes and blackberry jam with plum and pomegranate. Remarkable intensity, smooth delivery. 2 6-packs available, $118.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!

2017 Top 5: Pinot Noir

For the 2017 awards season, in addition to our Top 20 list and singular Icon Wine of the Year, we're including a celebration of the best wines in a few select categories. Here are our Top 5 Pinot Noir of 2017:

1. SpierHead Winery 2015 Pinot Noir Cuvée - 91pts
Rich and engaging on the vanilla-kissed, cherry-raspberry-earth scented nose and on the similarly flavoured, medium-plus bodied palate. Well-structured with smooth, slightly-earthy tannins and fine, berry acidity and finishes long with a touch of spice and lingering Black Forest cake notes, a signature of the label.
Full Review

2. Bethel Heights Vineyard 2014 Estate Pinot Noir - 91pts
A blend of the winery's different Pinot blocks from their 100 acres vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA of Willamette Valley. Quite robust, for a Pinot, with a classic, earthy/red-fruit base, dialled up to "11", and a medley of surprisingly compatible sweet and austere notes. Sure to please Pinotphilesboth traditional and adventurous.
Full Review

3. Meyer Family Vineyards 2015 McLean Creek Road Vineyard Pinot Noir - 90-91pts
Sourced from the winery's home vineyard in Okanagan Falls, this is a rich and hedonistic Pinot Noir with harmonious dark fruit, sensual herbs and rustic earth aromas on the nose. The dark fruit and earth theme continues through to the medium-plus bodied palate, nicely balanced with fresh blackberry acidity and supported by silky, fine tannins.
Full Review

4. JoieFarm 2015 "En Famille" Reserve Pinot Noir - 90pts
Opens with a generous nose of raspberry, potpourri and sweet spices followed by a bright, dry palate of raspberry flesh and seed flavours with savourytidbits of smoky pepper and cocoa notes adding depth. Fine, light tannins and mouth-watering acidity make this Pinot a friend to beef stews and game dishes. 
Full Review

5. Eagle Bluff Vineyards 2015 Crooked Post Pinot Noir - 90pts
Fairview's approachable-now, medium-everything Pinot Noir, produced under the Eagle Bluff Vineyards label, offers a nice blend of ripe and brambly red fruits with layers of earthy and savoury notes; cherry, raspberry skin, huckleberry, sun-warmed rocky soil and mellow spice. Acid is on-point and punctuates the long finish where light herbs and spice linger.
Full Review

 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2017 IconWines.ca

Willamette's White Rose Estate

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's Morgan Crossing location in South Surrey.



Willamette's White Rose Estate
By Jordan Carrier

There are more opinions out there on Pinot Noir than the Oxford comma (on which I don’t personally have a stance - pro, con or otherwise). Many New World Pinot-fans seek body and purity of fruit, dismissing the more subtle, earthen notes of Euro-Pinot as “Old Sock” (one of the more popular and curious descriptors I’ve encountered – would they prefer New Sock?). Burgundy-philes reject Californian Pinots in particular as rooty-tooty pancake syrup, placing greater value on the light-to-medium layered textures, tannins and crisp acidity (they would call it Freshness) found in traditional bottlings. Brothers and sisters, can we get along?

Yep, over a glass of White Rose.

There is bold fruit here, balanced among the flowers and spices, further amplified by the whole-cluster pressings that they’re famous for. In the glass, though, it looks and acts like Pinot, unapologetically medium-bodied and racy (lower weight does not equal lower intensity, if unconvinced, see: Barolo). Tucked in behind Domaine Serene in the Dundee Hills, White Rose has tried to maintain a low profile while a cult built up around them; ultra-low yields (hence the intensity), super-gentle pressings (it’s more like a neck rub), natural yeast fermentation and neutral barrel aging – this method of winemaking couldn’t be less interventionist if it were performed by tree nymphs.

And they really don’t make much of it, we’re lucky to get any at all. I’m not sure why we get it at such a relatively low price either, but I don’t want to look too closely at it in case it’s a mistake.

White Rose Pinot Noir 2015

Cult Pinot at a mainstream price. One could be forgiven for calling this catch-all “Willamette” appellation bottling their “entry level” wine, but it doesn’t drink like one. Vibrant red fruits, singed herbs, cardamom, clove, orange peel. Medium bodied and zippy, focused and long, this is mega-happy-juice for well-informed patios. Sells for $40 USD at the winery. 5 cases available, $46.49 +tax

White Rose “Dundee Hills” Pinot Noir 2011

Loved it so much last time, I brought it back. This is the sneaky, re-labelled wine the Americans call “The Neo-Classical Objective” that was imported into BC under the generic “Dundee Hills” label so that the Oregon peeps wouldn’t get mad about us getting it cheaper. Jeepers creepers, I love this sleeper vintage, I fell in love with the misunderstood 2011s when I was down there last summer. Like the unusually late harvest, these wines just needed more patience to start coming around. Now they’re around. Boy are they ever. Dried flowers, white pepper and allspice surround the bright raspberry and strawberry notes. Layers and layers on the palate, good fruit intensity, a very Burgundian lift just on the end. Sells (as “Neo-Classical”) for $80 USD at the winery. 6 6-packs available, $64.99 +tax

Pinot Trio

SpierHead has come a long way with their handling of Pinot Noir since their first vintage of estate grown fruit in 2010. Now 6 years on, the East Kelowna winery is making a name for itself with multiple Pinot Noir labels in their portfolio. The 2014 vintage yielded a trio of excellent Pinots ranging from light, bright and full of might to rich'n'supple. Pinophiles will enjoy tasting all three, side-by-side-by-side, picking out the differences and similarities between the labels which I've tried to capture below.

2014 Pinot Noir - $23
A bright and fresh Pinot Noir with juicy-tangy red fruit prominent on the engaging nose and the mouth-watering, (mostly) dry palate. Cherry nibs, vanilla, mild oak and mineral notes add complexity throughout. Light spice and chocolate-covered cherry flavours linger on the moderate-plus finish.
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2014 GFV Saddle Block Pinot Noir - $27
The Momma Bear of the Pinot Noir trilogy on offer from East Kelowna's SpierHead Winery. Falls right in the middle on the richness scale between the other two. The "GFV" (for Gentleman Farmer Vineyard) is feminine and well-balanced, hosting a range of red fruits on the inviting nose and the concentrated, spicy palate. The finish is long with lingering wild berry acidity.
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2014 Pinot Noir Cuvée - $32
Lives up to its billing as the winery's flagship Pinot Noir (they make 2 others), this micro cuvée is blended from select barrels and produces a beautiful wine, rich in complexity and texture. The loving embrace of French oak is felt on the vanilla-kissed, cherry-raspberry nose and on the vibrant, medium-plus bodied, red fruit and tea leaf palate. Structure is solid with silky-smooth tannins and huckleberry acidity. The finish is long and spicy with lingering dark cherry and Black Forest cake flavours.
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Try This, Cellar That - BC Pinot Noir

This week we showcase BC Pinot Noir:

Try This...

Black Cloud 2012 Fleuvage Pinot Noir - $25
The 'Fleuvage' could be considered the younger sister, or perhaps, the understudy, to Black Cloud's showcase Pinot Noir 'Altostratus'. Overall, the wine represents its terroir admirably; a youthful vineyard along the Naramata Bench. Enjoy the Fleuvage as you wait for your Altostratus to mature.
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Cellar That...

Black Cloud 2011 Altostratus Pinot Noir - $35
Where its younger sister is 'subtle', the Altostratus is 'supple' with a lush, harmonious expression of BC Pinot Noir that combines a sweet-scented, joyous nose of ripe red fruit, pot-pourri and spice aromas with a well-balanced, red fruit'n'earth palate structured by fine tannins and fresh, alpine berry acidity. Give this beauty another year in the bottle for further integration.
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 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2014 IconWines.ca

Flicks and Flights: Sideways

The Flick: "Sideways" directed by Alexandre Payne, starring Paul Giamotti and Thomas Haden Church

The Flight: Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Pommard 1er Cru Pinot Noir, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Merlot Blend

The central theme of the film, male bonding and the good and bad behaviour it produces, could just have as easily been linked to sports, cars or any other muse that elicits emotional devotion. It just so happens that the author decided to structure the plot around wine and its practical (winery visits) and romantic application (personifying varietal characters). Yes, the granddaddy of all wine-related films could have had any number of different subjects as its plot catalyst. As wine lovers, we couldn't be happier that he chose wine.

The story needs little introduction for folks who are already very familiar with the plot, quotable phrases like "I'm not drinking any fucking Merlot!" and the surprise effect the film had on the wine industry upon release (worldwide Merlot sales are still in recovery). We love this film because it aptly conveys how wine lovers view wine as more than just a tasty drink. It reflects the notion that it is a living thing which deserves a unique language with which to discuss its infinite intricacies and the film does just that, accurately and with humour, intelligence and heart.

Yes, some hardcore vinos objected to the fact that Miles is constantly drinking to intoxication but these folks miss the point that this detail is character based and not a thinly veiled pronouncement by the author that wine appreciation is just an over-intellectualized vehicle for getting drunk. In Vino Veritas, and in the movie Sideways Miles uses wine to expose and communicate the sadness in his life; his inner truth revealed.

It's hard to imagine anyone integrating the language of wine more intricately than its seamless inclusion into the Sideways script - simply put, the best wine related film of all time.

The Sideways Drinking Game:

1. Take a sip of Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir every time... Miles vocalizes an over-elaborate tasting note.
2. Take a sip of Pommard 1er Cru every time... Miles is seen nursing a hang-over.
3. Finish the bottle of Saint-Emilion Grand Cru when... Miles hilariously, albeit ironically, disparages Merlot, one of the main varieties in his beloved Cheval Blanc from Bordeaux's Left Bank commune of Saint-Emilion.
4. Finish the bottle of Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir when... Miles and Maya speak of their love for Pinot and wine in general (though we know they are really describing themselves to one another in this poignant scene).

- Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Best of Niagara: Pinot Noir

The Niagara Peninsula may offer the terroir that resembles Pinot Noir's famous home in Burgundy the closest in Canada. It may be to no one's surprise then that the best Pinots produced here are Burgundian in character: earthy, austere and age worthy. The following Pinot Noirs, sorted by price point, tick all the boxes:

$30 and below:

Tawse Winery 2007 Pinot Noir - $25
The nose offers ripe fruit aromas of cherry, raspberry and plum with vanilla and earthy notes. An echo of sweetness on the otherwise dry palate from the concentrated fruit flavours of dark cheery, raspberry and oak spice. Where to buy: Direct from winery and LCBO Vintages.
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$40 and below:

Chateau des Charmes 2007 Paul Bosc Vineyard Pinot Noir - $35
This is an extremely mineral and earthy Pinot that needs time in your cellar. Buy, hold and wait to enjoy this excellent Pinot Noir. Where to buy: Direct from winery.

Rosewood Estates Winery and Meadery 2007 Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir - $36
Winner of a gold medal at the 2009 Wine Access Awards. More residual sugar than most of the other top Pinots, but the balance works. 11 months in French oak. Where to buy: Direct from winery.

Coyote's Run Estate Winery 2008 Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir - $36
The St. David's Bench winery makes two single vineyard Pinot Noirs and they are fun to taste side-by-side in the tasting room. Chances are this is the Pinot you'll leave with. Very well made and tasty. Where to buy: Direct from winery.

Norman Hardie 2008 Niagara Pinot Noir - $39

Produced from fruit grown on the Beamsville Bench on the Niagara Peninsula. Technically, Norman Hardie is a Prince Edward County producer, but this wine is so good we thought we'd sneak it in. Where to buy: Direct from winery.

Le Clos Jordanne Estate Wines 2007 Talon Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir - $40

The Talon Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir offers elegant, developing aromas of dark cherry, raspberry seed, oak spice and steely minerality on the nose. The palate recalls the limestone terroir with earthy flavours, austere acidity and smooth, integrated tannins. Very Burgundian in character. Where to buy: LCBO Vintages and Jackson-Triggs Niagara.

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- Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

BC VS Ontario - Pinot Noir

In our BC VS. Ontario series we are looking to showcase the differences and uniqueness of Canada's two main wine producing Provinces. In this article we look at Pinot Noir which grows well on the Niagara Peninsula in Ontario and in the cooler pockets of the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. The aim is not competition but rather an exploration on what makes the wines produced so different. We've selected two Pinot Noirs that offer excellent typicity for their respective regions:

Niagara:
Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Talon Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir
Full Review

Okanagan Valley:
Cedar Creek 2006 Platinum Reserve Pinot Noir
Full Review

Ontario
The Niagara Peninsula may offer the terroir that resembles Pinot Noir's famous home in Burgundy the closest in Canada. It may be to no one's surprise then that the best Pinots produced here are Burgundian in character: earthy, austere and age worthy.

Pinot Noir loves warms days and cool nights making the Niagara Peninsula a natural fit for the grape. The temperature on the peninsula is regulated by the two Great Lakes which form its Northern and Southern borders; Ontario and Erie. The best plots for Pinot Noir tend to be in vineyards closer to Lake Ontario where the hot, muggy Ontario summer is mellowed by cool breezes coming from the lake. The Niagara Escarpment runs the length of the peninsula and acts as a bit of a rain shield. The vines are usually left to fend for themselves with no irrigation and a developing trend towards biodynamic and organic practices.

Le Clos Jordanne Estate Wines, a Vincor company in partnership with Boisset France (Burgundy), produce six Pinot Noir wines; a Village Reserve (an entry level blend), four vineyard specific wines and their iconic The Grand Clos which is from the western part of their Le Clos Jordanne Estate Vineyard.

The Talon Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir offers elegant, developing aromas of dark cherry, raspberry seed, oak spice and steely minerality on the nose. The palate recalls the limestone terroir with earthy flavours, austere acidity and smooth, integrated tannins.

BC
The long Okanagan Valley of British Columbia has many different meso and micro climates. Pinot Noir grown in cooler pockets to the north of the valley from Naramata to the Kelowna area tend to produce the best fruit, offering good sun exposure, warm days and cool nights. The Okanagan Lake helps regulate the temperature, cooling the vines in the extreme heat of July and August. Early frost is always a concern in the valley but modern viticulture practices help abate the risk.

The best Pinots in BC have traditionally been unapologetically New World, fruit-forward wines that corral super-concentrated flavours of dark cherry and raspberry with pronounced spiciness. However, there is a growing trend towards austere, mineral and earthy wines as producers learn the best vineyard spots in the valley. As this trend develops we may see more similarities between the Pinot Noirs of Niagara and the Okanagan Valley.

The Cedar Creek 2006 Platinum Pinot Noir is an expression of concentrated fruit flavours and aromas blended effortlessly with French oak, creating an expression of bright fruit with smooth, rounded edges. A long finish of lingering oak spice completes the experience.

Seek these two wines out, or two similar wines, and do your own comparison. You may find you prefer one style to the other or maybe you'll enjoy them both for their differences. Due to Canada's archaic liquor laws and feuding Provincial liquor board monopolies, this may be hard to do. Twitter and Facebook are good resources to find hard-to-get wines in your corner of the world.
 - Liam Carrier

Best of BC: Pinot Noir

$20 and below:

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir - $20
There is a classic Pinot Noir earthiness to the nose of this wine but it is the raspberry, cherry, mint and smoked cedar aromas which take center stage and confuse your mind that you'll be drinking a much more expensive Pinot.
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Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery 2007 Summit Reserve Pinot Noir - $20
The medium-minus bodied palate offers smooth, light tannins with flavours of red fruits, subtle oak and a touch of spice. Good acidity and mouth feel with a balanced, medium-plus finish. Where to buy: Direct from winery and VQA stores.
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Rollingdale Winery 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir - $20
If you're a Pinot Noir fanatic who finds too-many New World attempts far too fruity then you'll love this Reserve Pinot from Rollingdale. It's a steal at $20. Where to buy: Direct from the winery and VQA stores.
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$30 and below:

Fort Berens Estate Winery 2008 Pinot Noir - $22
The nose offers complex aromas of dark cherry, raspberry, vanilla and forest funk with loads of allspice and earth notes. Savoury earth and oak characters take a starring role on the bone-dry palate with supple tannins and red fruits supporting. Where to buy: Direct from winery and VQA stores.
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Stoneboat Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir - $25
Recently awarded a 2011 Lieutenant Governor's Award of Excellence, this light garnet hued Pinot Noir from Oliver's Stoneboat Vineyards offers a gorgeous, seductive nose of sweet cherry-cola candy, vanilla, cedar, light earth and subtle oak spice aromas. Where to buy: Direct from winery and VQA stores.
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Church and State Wines 2007 Pinot Noir - $26
Fans of Stoneboat's excellent middleweight Pinot Noir should consider trying this delicious, elegant and balanced example from Church and State (and vice versa).
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Averill Creek Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir - $28
This oak-aged wine (mixture of new and one to four year old French oak) offers layers of fruit and leather on the palate. A long finish with tidy tannins. Where to buy: Direct from winery and VQA stores.
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Cassini Cellars 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir - $29
The dry palate packs a tart punch on the entry but evolves into a more refined presentation of silky smooth tannins supporting raspberry, cherry, spice and oak flavours. A light-in-the-mouth weight and fluid texture is followed by a long, tart finish with lingering oak spice. Where to buy: Direct from winery.

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Tantalus Vineyard 2008 Pinot Noir - $30
The 2008 vintage, although not the blockbuster that the 2007 was, is a solid and delicious Pinot Noir with an excellent balance of red fruit and savoury characters with a touch of fragrant aromatics. Where to buy: Direct from winery and VQA stores.
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Howling Bluff 2007 Pinot Noir - $30
Youthful aromas of coffee, chocolate and orange peel with flavours of cherries and berries on the palate. Smooth tannins pair well with subtle yet present acidity to form a very well balanced wine. Where to buy: Direct fom winery (online only) and select private wines shops.
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$40 and below:

La Frenz Winery 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir - $32
The nose exhibits chocolate, plum, cement, and pepper. The palate is savory with milk chocolate and cherry. The finish was long and spicey. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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Black Cloud 2008 Altostratus Pinot Noir - $35
Produced by current Township 7 winemaker Bradley Cooper, the "Altostratus", the high-end wine of a duo of Pinots produced by his micro-label side project, can take its place among the top Pinot Noirs of the valley. Where to buy: Direct from winery.
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Meyer Family Vineyards 2008 McLean Creek Road Vineyard Pinot Noir - $40
Refined aromas of dark cherry, plum, warm gravel, toasted oak, vanilla and a hint of spice are followed by an intense palate of similar flavours with added raspberry flavours and a smoky texture. The moderate-plus finish is well balanced with medium tannins and acid. Where to buy: Direct fom winery (online only) and select private wines shops.
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$40 and above:

Blackwood Lane 2009 Pinot Noir - $44
Possibly, the quintesential BC Pinot Noir as it requires no "Burgundy-esk" or "Central Otago-like" descriptor. This Pinot is pure BC... and that's a major compliment. Where to buy: Direct fom winery.
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2009 Ahmic Lake Pinot Noir Showdown - Part II

The Results:

The showdown was a success. All judges took the tasting somewhat seriously and no one claimed to know exactly what they were doing which made it fun as we were able to learn together and find commonalities and differences in personal experiences. It was also good that the judges did not agree on everything and peoples preferences really guided the rating.

Wine 1: Accumulated score was 34 out of 50.

Judge 1: Distinct. Nose was caramel and subtle. Palate was dry with a smooth mouth feel. The finish had tight tannins and long. 8.5 out of 10.

Judge 2: Nose was subtle and distinct. Palate was very light and dry. The finish was spicy, peppery, and long. 7.5 out of 10.

Judge 3: Nose was pleasant. Palate was dry and light. Finish was excellent. 8 out of 10.

Judge 4: Nose was cherry. Palate was oak, with smoky tobacco. The finish was dull and dry. 5 out of 10.

Judge 5: No comments. 5 out of 10.

Wine 2: Accumulated score was 41.5 out of 50.

Judge 1: Nose was chocolate, smoke, and strawberries. Palate was silky berries. The finish was tangy and long. 8.5 out of 10.

Judge 2: The nose was berries. The palate was fruity. The finish light and long. 9 out of 10.

Judge 3: The nose was sweet. The palate was fruity. The finish was sweet, tangy and long. 7 out of 10.

Judge 4: The nose was chocolate and strawberries. The palate was sweet and fruity. The finish was warm. 8 out of 10.

Judge 5: No comments. 9 out of 10.

Wine 3: Accumulated score was 41 out of 50.

Judge 1: The nose was fruit forward and floral. The palate was smooth berries. The finish was spice pepper and short. 9 out of 10.

Judge 2: Very good. The nose was very berry. The finish was smooth. 9 out of 10.

Judge 3: The nose was tangy. The finish was greasy?? 6 out of 10.

Judge 4: The nose was floral. The palate was smooth and fresh. The finish 8 out of 10.

Judge 5: No comments. 9 out of 10.

So in the end wine number two was had the highest accumulated score and is the preferred Pinot Noir out of the three, however wine 3 was an extremely close second.

The Winner:

Drum roll please. The people's preferred Ontario Pinot Noir out of the three tasted is the 2007 Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve. This wine scored well from all. It was the cheapest of the three tasted and has the highest production, however it is hard to get outside of Ontario (i.e I have never seen any of Le Clos Jordanne in BC). The most interesting thing is that the Village Reserve is the entry level Pinot of a flight of four. I can't imagine what Le Grand Clos is like. If the entry level is this good watch out for the others.

The runner-up for the Pinot Noir Showdown is the 2007 Tawse Pinot Noir. Personally I thought this was the best of the bunch, and except for one judge who scored it low, this would have been the preferred wine.

Last but certainly not least is the Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir. This was by far the most distinct of the three tasted and I think had a little more complexity than the others. It was not as fruit forward as the other two. An interesting note is that Pascal Marchand who helped consulted for Le Clos Jordanne was hired by Tawse for their Pinot's and this was evident looking back especially in the taste.

Conclusions and Insight

This experiment was an interesting test to find the people's preferred Ontario Pinot Noir out of three in relatively the same price range from similar appellations. For the most part the variables that could bias the results were accounted for and the results are fairly reliable. After completing the experiment there were a few things that I learned that were insightful that should be considered for similar showdowns in the future:

1) More judges would definitely add to the reliability of the results. The more people judging will lessen the impact of one or two outlier scores that might have skewed the results.

2) A better mix of judges. Although there was a reasonable cross section I think an equal number of educated wines drinkers compared to average drinkers would be beneficial and give a more representative indication of how the wine performs.

3) Average wine drinkers like tastes they can easily identify. The fruit forward wines tended to score better than the subtle and distinct one. This does not necessarily mean that the distinct wine is better however the wines that were fruitier were more liked by the judges.

In conclusion all the wines tasted in the showdown were excellent, however the Le Clos Jordanne came out on top. Overall this was a great experience to get insight into what people prefer and how to improve on future experiments. The 2009 Ahmic Lake Pinot Noir Showdown was a great success in market research and fun!! HC

2009 Ahmic Lake Pinot Noir Showdown - Part I

Experimenting With Pinot Noir

Background:

The adjacent Beamsville Bench and Twenty Mile Bench are in close proximity to the town of Beamsville and Vineland Ontario respectively. These appellations exhibit many similarities to the Burgundy and Alsace regions of France. The most celebrated wines coming out of these regions are Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.

The soils in both benches are deep and rich in limestone and glacial till. The minerality really shows in Rieslings and the Pinot Noirs. The locations on the Niagara escarpment and proximity to Lake Ontario provide these appellations with gradual warming in the spring and gradual cooling in the fall with long growing seasons which allows for full ripeness and good concentration.

After visiting nine wineries in the Niagara peninsula I was able to acquire three Ontario Pinot Noirs that were of approximately equal value ($25-$35). Each of these Pinot Noirs came from either the Twenty Mile Bench or Beamsville Bench from known and established wineries. I had visited 2 of the 3 wineries wines and other came from a well known producer of Pinot Noir in the region.

Both LC and myself are big fans of Pinot Noir and it seemed like an interesting experiment to pit three of the top end Niagara wine producers against each other (if nothing else for something to do). You will see more of this from Icon Wines with different varietals, different regions, and different formats, and to a certain degree this was a trial run.

All of the Pinot Noirs tasted throughout the Niagara Region were quite good, however I thought it would be interesting to see what 5 random and `average`wine drinkers came up with in terms of preference. I decided to do the tasting `blind` just to eliminate any preconceptions of cost or producer bias.

The Wines:

Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2006 ($25 at the Jackson Triggs Niagara Winery):

Le Clos Jordanne is owned by Vincor in partnership with Boisset France. LCJ specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which are the grapes grown best in the Twenty Mile Bench. This region is very similar to that of Burgundy France in terms of soil and precipitation. The Village Reserve grapes are an assemblage from four vineyards and this offering is the entry level Pinot Noir for LCJ out of four in this flight. The top end Icon Class Pinot Noir produced by LCJ is Le Grand Clos and sells for approximately $70/bottle.

Tawse Pinot Noir 2007 ($32 at the winery):

Tawse is a Beamsville Bench Winery that is known for great Pinot Noirs. Tawse is a small lot producer and has a flight of 4 Pinot Noirs. The Chardonnay’s produced from this winery are very good (Robin’s Block Chardonnay was a stand out for me). The winery is beautiful and the grounds have an old world feel. There is a serious impact when you approach this winery and Tawse are serious winemakers that have made an impact on winemaking in the Niagara Peninsula.

Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir 2007 ($35 at the winery):

Thirty Bench is one of the oldest wineries in the Beamsville bench area, and has made a reputation for itself with their flight of four Rieslings. Their reds and red blends are truly outstanding and the private tastings were a fun and informative experience. TB has one Pinot Noir from a small lot vineyard. The red blends were truly a standout for this winery. And this was by far one of the best wine producers I had the pleasure of visiting while in the Niagara Region

The Rules:

The rules for the showdown were quite simple. Each of the five `judges` were given a pad with three sheets of paper. Each sheet of paper was labelled with Wine 1, Wine 2, or Wine 3. For each of the three wines I had the judges (regardless of "winemanship") write notes about 1) The Nose 2) The Palate 3) The Finish, and 4) A rating between 1 and 10.

The tasting was blind (for myself as well) and we were freely able to discuss what people tasted and which wines they liked and disliked and why. Each judge was poured one round of tasting size samples of each wine. Upon completion of the first round the second round was poured in the same order with the glasses being rinsed and dried between tastings. After these two rounds the judges had a choice of wines they wanted to try and again to make their final decisions.

At the end of the official tasting the judges submitted their notes and the ratings were tallied. The wine with the highest accumulated score was the winner of the Pinot Noir showdown 2009.

Beyond that it was a free for all with the remainder of the wine and a good time was had by all.

The Judges:

The judges were not wine snobs as much as they were lovers of wine. It was for this reason that I thought a fair assessment of the wines could be obtained and ultimately the `People`s Choice` could be realized. It was the intent that the average reader could look at this showdown and say this is what 5 random people thought was the preferred Pinot Noir, maybe I`ll go try that out.

The cross section of judges was this. 2 retired females (a former insurance broker and an administrative assistant for a law firm), 2 early 30`s male professionals (an OPP officer and a natural resource consultant), and finally an early thirties female professional (a clinical scientist). While it was not the most diverse group it did give a fairly good distribution of backgrounds and age considering there were only five judges.

One interesting note about the judges was that one of them claimed not to be a `red wine` drinker and it turned out by the end of the showdown we had a convert. I believe that is saying something for the Ontario Pinot Noirs.

Stayed tuned for the results of the Pinot Noir showdown, the winner and some general conclusions.

Go to Part II