Friday, September 28, 2012

2009 Bargain Bordeaux Best Bets

The annual BCLDB Bordeaux release launches tomorrow morning at their Signature Store locations throughout the province. On offer are the terrific wines of what Robert Parker has called the best vintage he's tasted in the 40 years he's been covering France's most famous wine region.

2009 is a Cabernet-friendly vintage with the best examples delivering exquisite fruit and finesse with the structure to age well for a generation. Unfortunately, due to a frenzied en-primeur campaign in early 2010, most of the high-scoring, Cabernet-heavy wines have been priced out of the market for the average consumer and budget conscious collectors. IconWines.ca favourites like Pontet-Canet and Montrose received the coveted 100pts score from Parker and skyrocketed in price keeping with the trend of all the classified growth wines. Folks will have to pay a fortune to get their hands on a Bordeaux Cabernet from 2009. However, there are always deals to be found in each vintage.

In a general sense, Merlot-heavy blends offer the best value for 2009. Though thought of as a "Cabernet vintage", the weather in 2009 was also favourable to the Merlot vines with many of the smaller Château producing their best wines to date. Look to lesser-known AOCs like the ever improving Côtes de Castillon and the satellite communes of the Right Bank (Montagne St Émilion and Lalande de Pomerol) for Merlot based blends offering excellent fruit, depth and mid-range ageability. Below are our recommendations for 2009:

Château Cap de Faugères, Côtes de Castillon - $28
Château Clos des Lunelles, Côtes de Castillon - $58
Château Croix Mouton, Bordeaux Supérieur - $28
Château Côte Montpezat, Côtes de Castillon - $25
Chateau Doisy Daëne, Barsac - $50 (375ml)
Château Faizeau Vieilles Vignes, Montagne St Émilion - $28
Château La Fleur de Boüard, Lalande de Pomerol - $55
Château Fombrauge, St Émilion - $55
Château Fontenil, Fronsac - $49
Château La Garde, Pessac Léognan - $39
Château du Glana, St Julien - $39
Château Joanin Bécot, Côtes de Castillon - $39
Château Lilian Ladouys, St Estèphe - $38
Château Plince, Pomerol - $39
Château Poujeaux, Moulis - $60
Chateau Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes - $38
Sarget de Gruaud Larose, St Julien - $29

 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Monday, September 24, 2012

Flicks and Flights: Sideways

The Flick: "Sideways" directed by Alexandre Payne, starring Paul Giamotti and Thomas Haden Church

The FlightSanta Barbara County Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Pommard 1er Cru Pinot Noir, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Merlot Blend

The central theme of the film, male bonding and the good and bad behaviour it produces, could just have as easily been linked to sports, cars or any other muse that elicits emotional devotion. It just so happens that the author decided to structure the plot around wine and its practical (winery visits) and romantic application (personifying varietal characters). Yes, the granddaddy of all wine-related films could have had any number of different subjects as its plot catalyst. As wine lovers, we couldn't be happier that he chose wine.

The story needs little introduction for folks who are already very familiar with the plot, quotable phrases like "I'm not drinking any fucking Merlot!" and the surprise effect the film had on the wine industry upon release (worldwide Merlot sales are still in recovery). We love this film because it aptly conveys how wine lovers view wine as more than just a tasty drink. It reflects the notion that it is a living thing which deserves a unique language with which to discuss its infinite intricacies and the film does just that, accurately and with humour, intelligence and heart.

Yes, some hardcore vinos objected to the fact that Miles is constantly drinking to intoxication but these folks miss the point that this detail is character based and not a thinly veiled pronouncement by the author that wine appreciation is just an over-intellectualized vehicle for getting drunk. In Vino Veritas, and in the movie Sideways Miles uses wine to expose and communicate the sadness in his life; his inner truth revealed.

It's hard to imagine anyone integrating the language of wine more intricately than its seamless inclusion into the Sideways script - simply put, the best wine related film of all time.

The Sideways Drinking Game:

  1. Take a sip of Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir every time... Miles vocalizes an over-elaborate tasting note.
  2. Take a sip of Pommard 1er Cru every time... Miles is seen nursing a hang-over.
  3. Finish the bottle of Saint-Emilion Grand Cru when... Miles hilariously, albeit ironically, disparages Merlot, one of the main varieties in his beloved Cheval Blanc from Bordeaux's Left Bank commune of Saint-Emilion.
  4. Finish the bottle of Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir when... Miles and Maya speak of their love for Pinot and wine in general (though we know they are really describing themselves to one another in this poignant scene).
- Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Friday, September 21, 2012

Colour 2012 Highlights

Each September the BC Wine Institute holds its Fall tasting of VQA wines. The event, Colour, attracts a large contingent of VQA member wineries ranging from the big conglomerates like the many Vincor properties to the small Mom and Pop shops and everything in-between. The event has an afternoon Trade and Media component and a consumer-friendly, evening food-pairing tasting that always draws a great crowd. It's hard to taste all the wines on offer, however, reporting on what was tasted and having sought-out mostly new releases, below are my notes on a few gems worth seeking out.

Most Memorable White:
Painted Rock Estate Winery 2011 Chardonnay - $30
Absolutely gorgeous nose that will make you smile. Warm, sweet fruit and light brioche. Harmonious palate builds from a whisper on the entry to a full-bodied crescendo of orchard-fruit-goodness and a long, long finish. Very impressive.

Most Memorable Red:
Black Hills Estate Winery 2010 Syrah - $30
A nice surprise considering the cooler vintage and pedestrian 2009 release. Nice floral notes on the nose add complexity to the concentrated red fruit and pepper. Palate's balance is impressive with all components fitting nicely; good fruit, oak influence, mouth-watering acid and good length.

Best Value Wine:
Arrowleaf 2010 Pinot Noir - $17.99
Contender for best value wine of the year! A delicate nose of cherry cola followed by a light bodied, yet intense and fresh palate of red fruit and forest floor. Straight forward, no piece out of place. Delicious.

The Best of the Rest (A-Z):
Black Hills Estate Winery 2010 Nota Bene - $54
Fantastic concentration and depth. Deep, seductive, dark fruit on the nose with a full-bodied, fruit'n'herb palate to follow. Seems to embrace the cool vintage conditions rather than combat them.

Fairview Cellars 2010 The Bear - $34.90
Despite the success of the following single-variety wine, the best way to manage a cool vintage when trying to produce a hearty red wine is via a creative blend of components. Winemaker Bill Eggert succeeds again with his signature Bordeaux blend and similar to the Nota Bene, embraces the cool vintage conditions.

Fairview Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon - $39.90
There's just something about Fairview's terroir and vineyard program that squeezes every once of available ripeness from nature to produce the style of Cabernet Sauvignon folks are willing to pay good money to get. For 2010 we're at the lean and masculine end of the spectrum. But an herbal mess? No. A ripe Cab with delicious flavours? Yes - but you'll need to be patient. 2-3 years at least.

Fort Berens 2010 Meritage - $26.99
Rather different style than the fruit-forward, ready upon release 2009. The 2010 will need to lay quietly in your cellar for a while to mellow out, but, it deserves to be there. Super dry palate with big tannins and an austere style are the biggest changes. Think Right Bank Bordeaux

Fort Berens 2010 Cabernet Franc - $26.99
Similar to the Meritage, the 2010 Cabernet Franc has been made in an ultra-dry, austere style with big tannins that need some time to chill. Lean, focused with a great texture on the palate.

McWatters Collection 2009 Meritage - $29.99
Another stunning, full-bodied and concentrated Meritage from the hot 2009 vintage. Classic New World Meritage nose with ripe berry fruit dominant. Palate is juicy, full of flavour, well balanced and the wine finishes long.

Moon Curser 2010 Border Vines - $25
This wine stands out from its Meritage peers with a unique blend that includes Carmenere (35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 7% Carmenere, 7% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot) and prune notes on the nose. Rich, ripe, chewy tannins and a little extra body from a splash of RS. A big blend.

Moon Curser 2010 Dead of Night - $38
Another proprietary blend with 47% Tannat and 53% Syrah all sourced from the Osoyoos Bench producing a rich and intriguing wine. Again prune notes help distinguish it from the pack, but, will they be to everyone's liking?

Osoyoos Larose 2009 Petales d'Osoyoos - $25
Consistant with the house style of massive tannins and a dense character of dark fruit, licorice and toasted oak. Ripe tannins and fruit, good structure and well balanced. The best Petales in years.

Osoyoos Larose 2008 Le Grand Vin - $45
The 2008 vintage is one to pass on. The tannins are absolutely huge and slightly under ripe which no amount of time in the cellar will improve. 2009 vintage should be released fairly soon and given the success of the firm's 2nd wine from that vintage (see above) I would save your cash and hold out.

Platinum Bench 2010 Benchmark Red - $?
From a new winery on the Black Sage Bench wedged between Black Hills and Desert Hills with a mature vineyard that used to conract out its grapes. This is a proprietary blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 8% Gamay Noir. Ripe and fruit forward.

See Ya Later Ranch 2009 Ping - $27.99
Expressive, ripe berry and plum fruit on this Meritage blend of 54% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Good intensity with friendly, round tannins. Best Ping I've ever tasted.

Seven Stones 2009 Row 128 Merlot - $30
Unfortunately, this wine is now sold out according to the winery's website. If you do come across it, however, snatch it up and be reminded just how good Merlot can be in BC when it is nicely extracted and properly oaked. Big, fruity and robust with decent complexity and superb balance.

Tantalus 2011 Riesling - $21.90
Off-dry Riesling with grapefruit, lime and loads of green apple acidity. Quite full, perhaps a tad too sweet, but, a great spicy food wine to be sure.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca