Saturday, August 25, 2012

What's in Your Cellar, Michael?

Photo Courtesy JoieFarm
Michael Dinn
JoieFarm
Proprietor
joiefarm.com

Michael began his career in wine in the front of house operations at some of Vancouver's top eateries like Cin Cin and C Restaurant. He officially became a sommelier in 1999, graduating top of his class from the Canadian Sommelier Guild. Meeting (and later marrying) chef and fellow sommelier Heidi Noble started a chain of events that lead them to become owners of one of BC's most respected and sought-after boutique wineries.

Michael cellars wine for both the pure enjoyment of consuming a beautifully aged bottle of wine in the company of similarly minded friends and for its inherent educational benefits. There's a lot to learn about wine by allowing it to evolve and mature naturally, but, as Michael notes, you must protect your investment if you ever want to reap its reward.

Q - What inspired you to hold onto that first bottle or case beyond when it was ready to drink?
I was fortunate about 13 years ago that I was introduced to a group of local wine trade gentlemen, all members of the Commanderie de Bordeaux, who used to take a couple of us “youngsters” out to lunch once a month and share wines that they had purchased for a pittance in the 70s and 80s. I tasted some amazing wines and learned that there are things that happen in the bottle over time that can never be created simply in the winery.

Q - Was there a particular bottle or region of wine that was the impetus of starting your collection?
Some wines that really stood out for me from the aforementioned lunches include 1978 Vieux Télégraphe, 1978 Chateau Fonsalette, 1982 Malartic-Lagraviere 1985 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon.

Q - What are your favourite wines to collect?
Robert Chevillon, Bruno Clair, Meo-Camuzet, Selbach-Oster, Ridge, Cameron, Dr Pauly Bergweiler, Bonneau du Martray, COS, Dunn Vineyards, Marcel Deiss, S.A. Huet, Tissot.> >

Q - What are your favourite wine regions to collect?
Burgundy (red & white), Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo, Sicily (in general), Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
  
Q - Is there a jewel of note or a favourite wine in your collection?
No one wine in particular but a few that I am looking forward to drinking when the next meal or occasion presents itself include 1988 Monsanto “Il Poggio” Chianti Classico, 1991 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, 1988 Chateau Latour, 2001 Dr Pauly Bergweiler Bernkastler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spatlese.

Q - How do you store your collection?
In a converted closet, now a proper, insulated, temperature controlled cellar, below ground with a cooling unit and a constantly refilled bowl of water.

Q - What causes you to actually pull the trigger on a special bottle from your cellar?
Friends who can appreciate a great bottle coming by for a visit and dinner; Heidi making something amazing or just simply having gone too long between great bottles.

Q - What have you learned about wine from starting your collection?
  1. That wine needs to be stored properly or there is no point in collecting it.
  2. That wines without proper natural acidity do not stand to the medium or the long haul.
  3. That buying at least 3 bottles of actual collectibles is necessary to be able to enjoy a wine at its peak. The first bottle consumed should give some idea as to how much longer the others need to sleep and even if you drink bottle 2 too early, you have a third chance waiting in the cellar, as long as it isn’t corked.
Q - Would perusing your wine cellar offer any insight into you as a person?
Absolutely. I like wines with finesse and great natural acidity, regardless of the region. My preference for Old World wines has as much to do with geography as it does with tradition and quality. Most New World regions are warm to hot climates and I prefer cooler (due to elevation or latitude) and more maritime influenced regions where it is more likely that the winegrower will be able to maintain balance in the grapes, hence balance in the wines.

Q - Any general comments about building a collection?
A sufficient and diverse stock of ready-to-drink-now wines is crucial to keeping your hands off of the good stuff while you wait for them to mature.

Q - What advice would you share to anyone wanting to start a collection of wine?
Collect producers rather than simply regions. Great producers will always produce excellent wines even in challenging vintages because they make the necessary adjustments. Above all, have a proper place to store the wines or the investment will be all for not.

 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Introducing Silverback Vineyards

Silverback Vineyards in the brainchild of consulting winemaker Charles Herrold who dreamed of a boutique winery completely under his helm that would focus only on a concise portfolio of ultra-premium, small-lot wines. He found the quality and control he desired in Washington State's Columbia Valley leasing select blocks of grapes from premium vineyards and producing his wines among a strong community of like-minded winemakers in and around the city of Grandview.

The Columbia Valley has long attracted many of the world's great winemakers who work out of co-op or collective wineries such as Long Shadows Vintners which has been home to the likes of Michel Rolland, John Duval and Randy Dunn, each producing a signature wine and showcasing the amazing terroir of the Columbia Valley AVAs. With his Silverback Vineyards project, Herrold aims for the renown quality and prestige of Long Shadows while imparting his signature style on some of the world's most beloved wines: Chardonnay, Syrah and Bordeaux Blends.

Herrold's approach to winemaking is to apply minimal intervention, focusing on well-tended grapes from proven vineyards and by making the right choices in the winery to avoid compensating with chemicals - a common practice in the wine industry. Few faults or tweeks get past Herrold's refined nose and palate leading him to, essentially, strive to produce wines that pass his own critical sniff test.

The four wines that will be released this coming winter (exact dates not yet confirmed) would pass any one's sniff test as exceptionally crafted and executed gems that are sure to be a hit with collectors for their ageability and promise of further evolution.

The winery's website is not yet active, but look to get on the mailing list once it is to request an allotment. BC residents will have to wait until early 2013 before they're likely to see a bottle on a wine shop shelf. Your best bet is the Everything Wine store in South Surrey.

A note about the scores
I'm using some large ranges here as these wines have yet to be bottled. Though the wines are "finished" (blends have been finalized and the wines racked and/or filtered), they won't be released until the winter of 2012 upon which they will have spent 4-5 months in the bottle. Also, these wines are built to age and evolve, thus, the range is also an indication of expected improvement over time. Wines may be re-tasted upon release for a final score.

2011 Chardonnay - 94pts
A single-vineyard Chardonnay from the Horse heaven Hills AVA, cropped to 3.5 tonnes per acre and aged in both French and Hungarian oak with only minimal lees agitation for 6 months. As a result, the palate is exquisitely balanced with a subtle, ever-present texture allowing the fruit, mineral and oak influence flavours to sing in harmony with the mouth-watering, citrus melody.
Full Review

2010 Sangiovese - 92pts
Aged in 500L American oak puncheons and sourced from the Desert Hills Vineyard near Grandview, Washington, this Sangiovese also shows depth of character with layers of crayon, boysenberry, huckleberry and churchwood (worn, yet cared-for old wood). May not age as long as the fuller-bodied and finely structured Silverback Syrahs and blends, but some further evolution is possible, if not probable.
Full Review

2010 Syrah - 95pts
A dark, intense ruby coloured Syrah with a medium purple rim and a lovely sheen. Pulls you into its web at first sniff with layers of dark fruit, violets, tar, licorice, vanilla, subtle allspice and vibrant citrus notes. An excellent prelude to the concentrated palate that offers superb acidity and balance with fine tannins and long-lasting, spicy dark fruit flavours that role around your mouth with youthful abandon.
Full Review

2010 Référence - 94+pts
Fans of Blackwood Lane's 2006 and 2007 "Referènce" will enjoy a familiar blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec with Herrold's signature concentrated-yet-gentle and endlessly-layered graphite and dark fruit flavour profile. Classic Meritage berry fruit and savoury, gun powder and Christmas cake spice flavours add complexity to the finely tuned oak treatment and proprietary yeast program that Herrold employs. Ultra fine tannins and perfect acidity levels create a wine for enjoying in its youth or for aging 15+ years.
Full Review

2011 Reserve Syrah - 99pts
Charles decided to experiment with one barrel of his 100% free-run Syrah production from the 2011 vintage using a Bordeaux yeast normally reserved for Cabernet Sauvignon and the results are truly stunning. Violets, tar, cherry, licorice and citrus characters galore. This wine is as close to perfection as I've had the privilege to taste. Glaetzer's Amon-Ra springs to mind but with more depth, if that's even conceivable.  Of course, time will tell. Only 55 cases have been produced.
Full Review

 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2012 IconWines.ca

Friday, August 17, 2012

BC Wine Deal: August 17th, 2012

The following wines have been reduced in price at participating VQA wine shops and BCLDB stores.

Cassini Merlot was $18.90 is now $17.90
Chaberton Canoe Chardonnay Barrel Reserve was $13.99 is now $11.49
Chaberton Gamay Noir was $15.99 is now $13.49
Chaberton Pinot Gris was $15.99 is now $13.49
Chaberton Siegerrebe was $16.99 is now $14.49
Fork in the Road White was $17.99is now $16.99
Hillside Reserve Merlot was $17.49 is now $14.99
Jackson Triggs Chardonnay Private Reserve was $12.99 is now $10.99
Jackson Triggs Shiraz Grand Reserve was $25.99 is now $19.99
Jackson Triggs Merlot Gold Series was $29.99 is now $23.99
Jackson Triggs Merlot Black Series was $14.99 is now $12.99
Jackson Triggs Sauvignon Blanc Black Series was $13.99 is now $11.99
Jackson Triggs Shiraz Silver Series was $19.99 is now $16.99
Jackson Triggs Viognier Silver Series was $14.49 is now $13.99
Mission Hill Syrah Select Lot was $36.99 is now $29.99
Neck of the Woods Pinot Gris was $15.99 is now $11.99
Paradise Ranch Pinot Blanc Late Harvest was $17.99 is now $14.99
Paradise Ranch Chardonnay Late Harvest was $17.98 is now $15.99
Peller Pinot Blanc was $12.99 is now $11.99
Peller Merlot was $14.99 is now $13.99
Prospect Pinot Blanc was $13.99 is now $12.99
See Ya Later Ping was $27.99 is now $25.99
Sumac Ridge Chardonnay Private Reserve was $13.99 is now $12.99
Summerhill Cipes Pinot Noir Brut was $29.95 is now $24.95
Township 7 Chardonnay was $19.99 is now $18.49
Township 7 Merlot was $24.99 is now $22.99