Featured Wines: Deckbusters

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).

Deckbusters

By Jordan Carrier

Hi Everyone!

Deck be pretty, deck be warm.
Deck not good in snow or storm.
Deck? Patio? Yard? Same diff,
but all be full of many sniffs.

Grass and BBQs for sure,
but Neighbor Hank just spread manure,
and revved his dirt bike up as well,
plus weed’s legal, so that’s that smell.

How can the wine in your glass
compete with Hank’s both kinds of grass
and odors of a late spring’s day?
It can’t, if it’s weak Beaujolais.

What you need are wines with spunk
and fruit so strong it scares off skunks
and pairs with steak, prawns and tortillas.
I may have a few ideas…..

I present to you my annual guide to quality red wines to enjoy on your deck/patio/roof/yard/boat/yurt once it gets nice, an activity more critical this year than most. Softer, nuanced wines can sometimes get aromatically overwhelmed out there, so counter the chaos with these strong, fruit-driven wines that’ll stand up to even your neighbor’s mink farm. To the juice:

Tenuta di Castellaro 2016 Nero Ossidiana, Lipari, Italy

Everything about this is new and awesome and once you try it you’ll wish you bought buckets. Lipari is one of the Aeolian Islands, the volcanic archipelago off the north-eastern coast of Sicily, and although most wines from here are white and Malvasia-based, they do make a tiny bit of Corinto Nero, one of the rarest red Italian grapes, thought to have been brought to these islands by the ancient Greeks. Grown in obsidian soils (Nero Ossidiana means Black Obsidian), Corinto Nero comprises 90% of this wine with 10% Nero d’Avola, and while the nose is civilized and pleasant and floral with red fruits and nutmeg, the palate explodes with cassis, strawberries and baking spice – this is like a 1er Cru Burgundy crossed with a Roman Candle. Light on its feet but punches well above its weight; this is an altogether new idea, and it is simply delightful. 94 points Robert Parker, 6 6-packs available, $59.99 +tax

Treana 2016 Proprietary Red, Paso Robles, California

Not sure if you can call Treana Austin Hope’s Second Wine or his Day Job, but this cocktail of three parts Cab and one part Syrah has the mark of its maker all over it. Unctuous, big and Caymus-y (for less than half the price), this wine is unafraid of ripeness or barrels, the sweet Vanilla Coke aromas compete with intense blueberries and violets and cinnamon, all wrapped up with a whip of licorice in case you weren’t already paying attention. Treana is so gonzo popular I don’t really have to promote it here, but I include it because it screams “DECK!!” and some of you may have been unaware. If you didn’t know, now you know. Not yet rated. 6 6-packs available, $49.98 +tax

Quinta Sardonia 2013, Castilla y Leon, Spain

We picked this firecracker instantly in a tasting panel, despite having no yardstick to measure it by: this wine would get detained at the airport given how its nationality is kind of a salad. Crafted by a French winemaker from Cognac and grown just outside of Ribera del Duero but drinking with a very Howell Mountain/Mt. Veeder vibe, I’m not sure where I’d place this if I tried it blind, but I’d love it nonetheless. Tempranillo with Cab and Syrah, aged in all manner of barrels, drinking like it has something to prove: intense fruit and body with supportive tannin, notes of black currant, mint and spice, fully in the zone, big and balanced. I could only get 2 6-packs of this because I had to share it with the other stores, despite clearly winning the potato sack race. 94 points Robert Parker, 2 6-packs available, $79.99 +tax

Markham 2016 Merlot , Napa Valley

Drink the hugs you can’t currently get from your friends. Mostly Merlot with a smidge of Cab, Markham wants you to be happy so badly it could be your Life Coach. Generous plums, chocolate, cherries, blueberries and lavender start on the nose and just drive right through to the creamy, decadent finish. Although it kept a low profile, the winery that now houses Markham has been a Napa fixture since the late 1800s, indeed it was one of the first wineries ever built there, and their wines have the vibe of classic Valley Floor: the Merlot clones come from the Three Palms vineyard (Merlot Ground Zero, made famous by Duckhorn) and their winemaker is from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Napa Merlot is ascendant. Nobody doesn’t smile when they drink this. 2 cases available, Reg Price $54.99 Sale Price $49.99 +tax

Natte Valleij 2015 “P.O.W.”, Simonsberg, South Africa

A robustly smooth Bordeaux blend (Cab/Merlot) with an unlikely story: although the Natte Valleij Homestead was founded in 1715, winemaking there was sporadic, given the inability to export anywhere without spoilage. During WWII, an Italian prisoner of war was exiled to Natte Valleij for forced labour, and during his stay he helped to bring winemaking back to the ranch, likely using the know-how from his own growing region as a guide. This wine is a tribute to him, called P.O.W. because he only left his initials carved into the cottage there – they never actually knew his name. Blackberry and anise aromas are tempered with tobacco and cigar box, this doesn’t have the dusty vibes of many S.A. reds, I think you’d have the same reaction that I did if you tried it blind: that it was a perfectly-aged Medoc Cru Bourgeois from a warm year that cost twice as much as it actually does. 2 cases available, $39.99 +tax

Finca Ygay 2015 Marques de Murrieta Reserva , Rioja, Spain

Although no stranger to anyone’s shelf or cellar, Finca Ygay’s strong Second Wine is having a bit of a moment right now; as quality wines around the world keep inflating in price, quality Rioja stays steady and this rustic, gulpable traditional blend (Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, Garnacha) drinks like history. Spicy cedar, licorice and dried cherry notes precede a rich body and the caramelized Bourbon character that spending 1.5 years in American oak can bring. This wine eats anything that comes off your grill. #40, Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019, 93 points Robert Parker, 18 bottles available, $48.98 +tax

NON-STOP CLASSIC HITS

What follows is a brief listing of some wines that fit this theme and have previously been written about, but featured again for the benefit of those who’ve recently joined my Collectors List and may have missed ‘em the first time. If anyone requires more info I’m happy to send over the original blurb to you. The Deckbusters of yore:

Zuccardi 2017 Concreto Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina. 96 points James Suckling, 94 points Robert Parker, 18 bottles available, $46.98 +tax

Montalto Estate 2016 Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Australia. 97 points Decanter, 18 bottles available, $49.98 +tax

De Martino 2016 “Vigno” Carignan, Maule Valley, Chile. 97 points Robert Parker, 15 bottles available, $61.98 +tax.

Keep healthy, keep happy, and until next time: Happy Drinking!!

Featured Wines: The Quaran-Vine Papers #4: Pinots of Privilege

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).

The Quaran-Vine Papers #4: Pinots of Privilege

By Jordan Carrier

Hi Everyone!

Like many “essential” workers, I have come to know quite a bit about masks and gloves, lately. Gloves are a complex topic that we talk a lot about, here, with different pros and cons:

THINGS GLOVES MAKE EASIER
- Not touching my face (prime directive, 90% success rate)
- Picking up boxes of wine (omg so much better, I’m like Spiderman)
- Protecting against an angry cat (see below)

THINGS GLOVES MAKE HARDER
- Picking up a pen (why can’t they be bigger?)
- Taking a piece of @#*% paper out of a @#*% envelope (@#&% #$)
- Petting a cat (see above)

But our topic for today’s read is Pinot Noir, and the access I temporarily have to some wines that were reserved only for restaurants. PLEASE understand that I would trade back this access in a nanosecond if it meant that my restaurant brethren could fully return to work, but for now I can offer some amazing Pinots to you:

B.C.

Blue Mountain Block Series, Okanagan Falls. The Mavety family has spent the last few years identifying which areas of their original vineyard near OK Falls (one of the only own-rooted, ungrafted sites in the province) made the most distinct statements of Pinot Noir, and this is the maiden vintage of those terroir-driven bottlings. I have long been a fan of Blue Mountain, and I’m unsurprised to see them leading the charge towards a more Burgundian, geographic designation concept for BC (Oregon is already largely there).

Blue Mountain 2017 Pinot Noir Block 23 River Flow

The prettiest Pinot from the top of the hill, light and graceful from a sandy block with almost northern exposure. Red fruited and elegant with soft tannins, lovely. 12 bottles available, $54.98 +tax

Blue Mountain 2017 Pinot Noir Block 14 Gravel Force

As the name suggests, this is rocky soil with bits of clay acting as a sauce. Southwestern exposure means deeper everything: colour, body and tannin, with tangible strength and lots of layers. 12 bottles available, $54.98 +tax

Blue Mountain 2017Pinot Noir Block 9 Wild Terrain

The wild card with the most diverse aspects, steepest slopes, windiest area and sunniest part of the vineyard. This collection of extremes offers a gorgeously savoury, racy Pinot with herbs and flowers. 12 bottles available, $54.98 +tax.

Little Engine 2018 Pinot Noir Silver, Naramata

A bunch of us “Wine Types” went up to a special tasting at the French Family’s Naramata winery a couple years ago (so gorgeous up there, sigh), where we were treated to a blind comparison of Little Engine Pinots vs. Oregonian and Californian offerings. Two things crossed my mind, 1) wow, even the cheapest tier (silver) of this house really holds up against the Yanks and 2) the contrasting choice was fairly revealing as to where Little Engine’s compass is oriented. Almost every premium BC Pinot mentions Burgundy in their marketing, either as a North Star or (more incredulously) as an analog; Little Engine is admirably happy being a West Coast Pinot, full of fruit and fun and occasional punches to the face. This 2018 is vibrant and loud with cherry and dried strawberry notes, hints of fig and herbs toward a pretty darn satisfying medium-full mouthfeel with supportive (not racy) acidity. 2 cases (of 12) available, $41.98 +tax

Martin’s Lane 2015 Pinot Noir Simes Vineyard, Kelowna

Martin’s Lane has come a long way since this little offshoot of Mission Hill won its Pinot category at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Now its own winery with its own winemaker (New Zealander Shane Munn), Martin’s Lane has wisely narrowed their focus to perfecting two varieties: Riesling and Pinot Noir. Planted in 2008 and named after Mission Hill’s Wine Wiz John Simes, this vineyard near Kelowna boasts a rare northern aspect with Pinot at the top of the hill, allowing a long hang time for phenolic ripeness whilst keeping that bracing acidity that helped it beat its competitors years ago. Ripe cherries, cola and flint notes dive into a soft bath of plums and flowers. The bottle says 14% alcohol but it drinks like 12%. Quite lovely indeed. 12 bottles available, $100.98 +tax

FRANCE

Gerard Raphet 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy

The perfect way to tell 10-years-from-now you that you’re special and deserving of love. The 100-year-old rows near the top of this Grand Cru near Morey-Saint-Denis make very little juice, but what is produced is deep and earthen with hues of licorice and baking spice amongst the black cherries, the tannins are still at fighting weight but should soften enough to slip into a supporting role in a few years. Raphet is the Burgundian winemaker that other Burgundian winemakers drink, I’m discovering. 3 bottles available, $306.98 +tax

Domaine Faiveley 2017 Corton-Clos-des-Cortons-Faiveley Grand Cru Monopole, Burgundy

One of the precious few Grand Cru Monopoles (whole appellation owned by one house) in existence, the Faiveley family has farmed this patch since 1873, and besides being a blessed, east-facing terroir with a reputation for making Cellar Stars, it’s also one of only two Grand Cru Monopoles that bear the name of the family (the other is DRC). The 2017 vintage was one of those rare nothing-horrible-happened years that the family calls “classic” in style, spicy cherries constrained by bracing minerality that’ll develop amazingly over the coming decade but with enough fruit to drink earlier – unlike many vintages from this cru it doesn’t drink like a wolverine who stubbed his toe. Energetic but generous. 3 bottles available, $330.98 +tax

Marquis d’Angerville 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds, Burgundy

So synonymous are the d’Angervilles with the village of Volnay that 1) you’d need to go back several centuries to find a time when they weren’t there, and 2) they’ve been farming these same vineyards so long that the grapes are now their own recognized clone of Pinot Noir, Pinot d’Angerville. The current Marquis is Guillaume d’Angerville, who took over after his father’s premature passing in 2003, and he makes the kind of Volnay that reaffirms why this is pretty much my favourite village: gorgeously textured, silken delivery with just the right balance of perfume and stank. The gamey, herbal notes are countered by opulent deep blackberry and licorice, I think we’re 5 years away from the Golden Years here but the universe wouldn’t retaliate if you gave in to your urges now. 3 bottles available, $270.98 +tax

Butterfield 2008 Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy

I’ve introduced David Butterfield to you before – he’s the Canadian who trained under Jadot’s crazy druid Jacques Lardières – but I kind of hit the jackpot in both vintage and value with this amazeballs 2008 Corton, $156 would be peanuts for this Grand Cru in a new release let alone a library one (this is straight from his cellar). Taken from the tiny Pugets lieu-dit in Corton, this is an elegant, perfumed expression of the Cru with black cherries and leather taking centre stage – one need not wait for this, all engines are engaged. Doubtful that I’ll be able to get this again. 2 6-packs available, $156.98 +tax

Maison Roche de Bellene 2002 “Collection Bellenum” Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Burgundy

I tucked this one near the end to reward diligent readers: Bellene’s Nicolas Potel recently embarked on a new project: to liberate the cellars of his colleagues (as well as his own) and sell back-vintaged Burgundy for reasonable prices (in context, naturally). This 2002 Beaune Grèves exudes red fruits and flowers over spice and forest floor, and drinks like a dream as long as your dream involves dried cherries. I don’t expect to be able to get this again either. 9 bottles available, $119.98 +tax

USA

Lindstrom 2016 Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma

Greg and Carol Lindstrom only produce two wines, a Napa Cab and this Sonoma Pinot, both of which are made by Celia Welch – the winemaker of Screaming Eagle peers Scarecrow and Staglin (and she was 2008 Winemaker Of The Year) – which seems like hiring Spielberg to direct your Tik Tok video but she loves the fruit these vineyards produce, the collab was her idea. Only 200 cases were made of the Dutton Ranch 2016 Pinot (in the US you can only get this at the winery) and we have the only ones that came into BC because we are very clever (usually goes to restaurants). Cherry cola and cinnamon swirl around soft cedar notes and blackberry jam with plum and pomegranate. Remarkable intensity, smooth delivery. 2 6-packs available, $118.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!

Featured Wines: The Quaran-Vine Papers #3: Shooting Blancs

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).

The Quaran-Vine Papers #3: Shooting Blancs

By Jordan Carrier

As the weather gets warmer and we continue to find ourselves with time on our hands, I thought I’d shoot out some suggestions for some amazing French white wines to enjoy on your patio, with, of course, some contemporary precautions:

FROM THE LEGAL DEPARTMENT – April 16^th, 2020. Wine Product may be consumed in outdoor areas if consumers adhere to the following restrictions:

1a. All consumers of Wine Product must stay 2m apart from each other on patio.

1b. Patio must be 2m apart from neighboring patio.

1c. If two neighboring patios are occupied, eye contact between patios is forbidden.

1d. If accidental eye contact between neighboring patios does occur, eyes must be washed for 20 seconds before returning to patio.

Well, now that we’re safe, let’s get to the yums:

PRODUCER SPOTLIGHTS

Domaine Marius Delarche, Burgundy. Simply put, this is some of the best Burgundian value I have seen in a few years, from a tiny producer who should change their name to When Mice Roar. When Etienne Delarche took over after his father passed in 2007, there was every reason to expect that he would continue his family’s tradition of making passable, agreeable wines from the vineyards they’d owned for generations on and around the hill of Corton. Having apprenticed in a series of forward-thinking Burgundy houses, he set about reducing the oak treatment and the yields and stunned the region with pure, focused Chardonnays that shed new light on the unassuming hamlet of Pernand Vergelesses (or as I call it: Shadow Corton). Etienne now plays with the big boys but charges the kiddie rate: Delarche hasn’t increased their prices since 2010, putting them starkly in contrast with… France. I have 2 wines by Etienne:

Domaine Marius Delarche 2017 Pernand-Vergelesses AOC Les Boutières

From vineyards literally around the corner (other side of the hill) from Corton-Charlemagne (that’s why I call it Shadow Corton, clever Jordan!). Wet stones and spicy apples with zing and tenacity, finishes with lemon zest and a drum fill. Truly amazing value, you will want more than you buy. 4 6-packs available, $52.98 +tax

Domaine Marius Delarche 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru AOC 

A creamy whopper of a Corton-Charlie, full, rich, loud and solid, like a lemon-cream-pie with rocks in it. Delicious now, delicious in the future second term of President Joe Exotic. I don’t mean to blow the “value” horn too much but just look at this pricing compared to anything else from this Grand Cru and you’ll see why I’m so stoked on this house. 2017 not yet rated, previous 2 vintages scored 94 with Wine Spectator. 1 6-pack left (this horse is partially out of the barn) $161.98 +tax

Nicolas Joly, Loire. The Godfather of Biodynamic viticulture. This dude’s book has almost too many chapters in it: born in France, educated in New York and a former investment banker at J.P. Morgan, Joly returned to his family’s estate in the Loire Valley after reading a book of biodynamic viticulture, and he became a pioneer of organic winemaking in France during a time when pesticides and herbicides were liberally used as seasonings. He effectively put the small appellation of Savennières on the map, working exclusively with Chenin Blanc and elevating both grape and region to a level where one of his crus, Coulée de Serrant, was awarded its own appellation, becoming a monopole (entire AOC under one proprietor) and joining the tiny club of Romanée-Conti and Chateau-Grillet. (In contrast, I just learned how to work our Moneris machine, huzzah!). I have 2 Chenin Blancs by Mr. Joly:

Nicolas Joly Coulée de Serrant 2016 Savennières-Coulée-de-Serrant AOC 

If you wash your hands long enough to speak this wine’s whole name, you should be fine. Like Corton and Vougeot, this hallowed land has been under vine since monks first planted it in 1130. Harvested in 5 different passes and fermented with indigenous yeasts, aged in old oak, showing crushed rocks and grapefruit over dried white flowers and mild green herbs. Probably 5 years out from Prime Yum, age it like a dry Riesling. Not yet rated, 12 bottles available, $135.99 +tax

Nicolas Joly 2016 Les Vieux Clos, Savennières AOC

The estates youngest vines (20 years, ancient in BC context) are in this east-facing vineyard of schist and quartz, severely harvested so that only the ripest berries get used. This is Joly’s earliest drinking wine, golden and rich with flinty lemon and lemongrass and a faint saline note. 12 bottles available, $79.99 +tax

OTHER YUMS

Domaine aux Moines 1999 Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines AOC, Loire Valley

Mother-and-Daughter team Monique and Tessa Laroche run this absolutely crackerjack, under-the-radar biodynamic neighbour to Joly, next door to Coulée de Serrant. This organic Chenin is aged to perfection, still showing dried pear and honey over tertiary notes of menthol and pineapple. Medium bodied, firm with a persistent finish. Still has the acidity to go another decade, but you’re in quarantine now, so… 12 bottles available, $59.98 +tax

Gerard Duplessis 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains AOC, Chablis, Burgundy

Gerard’s son Lilian now runs this organic, classic Chablis estate in the heart of the appellation, and the Montmains cru (means “medium mountain” because it’s on a medium mountain) is his favourite. Flint and smoke surround the citrus notes, it takes a bit to coax the snail out of the shell, here, so decant and re-chill would be my M.O. or a 3-years nap would work as well. So many hazards befell Chablis in 2017 – hail and frost above all – that it’s wondrous we got anything, and accordingly the quantities are tiny. I have one 6-pack. $69.98 +tax

Domaine Oratoire 2017 St Martin Cairanne Blanc AOC “Haut-Coustias”, Cairanne, Rhône Valley

Continues to be one of the best values in White Rhône, but the world is slowly catching on. Clairette-led with Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne doing dishes, this is an opulent, rich white, made by the Alary brothers from 90-year-old vines on the geologically unique hill of Haut-Coustias, which like the village of Cairanne is largely planted to red wines. Intense tropical fruits and a massive body are all tied up in a zing on the luxurious finish. 94 points Robert Parker, 12 bottles available, $52.98 +tax

Domaine de Beaurenard 2017 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc AOC, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley

It seems like a lifetime ago but we had Victor Coulon from Beaurenard here for a Collectors Tasting in late February (omg time is folding on itself) and this was one of the hits, a rare white CDP that uses an unusually large (25%) portion of the ancient grape Bourboulenc in the blend. White flowers, almond and apricot control the nose, and although quite crisp, it drinks like silk. This wine will give you the hugs your friends cannot. 12 bottles available, $77.98 +tax

Until next time, stay safe and Happy Drinking!