Featured Wines: Christmas 2019

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).

Santa's Got A Brand New Bag

By Jordan Carrier

Hi Everyone!

We’re late enough into the season that I can spoil the ending of the Christmas movie: Santa’s spirit was inside of us the whole time. That means buying wine for yourself is totally cool. I have some ideas:

AUSTRALIA

John Duval Eligo Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley

A stellar Shiraz from the man who made 16 vintages of Grange. The semi-retired former Penfolds head winemaker (he won World Winemaker of the Year twice) returned to his family’s vineyards in 2003, producing small batches of gorgeous Shiraz like this 2013 Eligo, showing violets, licorice and dark chocolate over a molten core of blueberry and eucalyptus. Perfect purity of fruit and purpose. 98 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs available, $84.98 +tax

CHILE

De Martino Vigno 2016 Maule Valley

Now this is something new, why wasn’t it on my radar before? A Carignan-based field blend (Malbec fills the holes) from Aguada, a 60-year-old dry farmed vineyard in the Maule. A fascinating nose – if you could see aromas this would be Technicolor, with flowers, earth, game and red berries, a balance of sweet and savoury scents – but the big body and finish are classically elegant, not unlike a Hermitage. Wow. 97 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs available, $61.98

FRANCE

Louis Roederer Cristal 2008 Champagne

I’ve already seen a dozen cases of this instant classic bounce off this store, but I did manage to snag a tad more for the Holidays. Boasting some of the best scores in decades, the 2008 Cristal (held back and released after the yummy 2009) has been called a “perfect wine” by Jeb Dunnuck – the nose of apple, cream and toasted spices runs seamlessly into a honeyed body of ginger, orange peel and chalk. There’s so much going on, here. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 100% not gonna be here by 2020. 100 points James Suckling, 100 points Jeb Dunnuck, 98 points Decanter, 98 points Wine Enthusiast, 97 points Wine Spectator, 3 3-packs available, $295.99

Chateau Suduiraut 1982 Sauternes (375ml)

What does Forever taste like? Honey, walnuts and beeswax, evidently. This low-key estate (close to Yquem) dates back to the 1500s, and the only reason it’s not charging an arm and a leg is because of the meh quality of its mid-20^th century output, a problem that was more than remedied by 1982, when new owners started to make classic Sauternes again. 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, browning a tad, with waxy, nutty notes sand a layered, medium-sweet deployment. Pairs with Netflix. 1 wooden 12 pack (and some wee loose bottles too), $65.98 /375ml

ITALY

Felsina Fontalloro 2016 Toscana I.G.T. 

The Tuscan 2016 vintage is like a baseball player who’s already scored a home run but keeps running around the bases over and over. We get it, dude, you’re awesome. Accordingly, this 100% Sangiovese from high-altitude vineyards in Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi is an instant legend, a cellar-ready beast that exudes cassis and licorice over earthy minerality – think Flaccianello crossed with a Barolo. Probably best past 2022, but I have noticed that many Tuscan 2016s stop biting after 5+ hours in a decanter, so… game on? 98+ points Robert Parker, 98 points James Suckling, 3 6-packs available, $109.98

Guidalberto 2017 Toscana I.G.T. 

The famous younger brother to Sassicaia has developed its own following independent of that house’s Grand Vin, the value is fantastic and the doors open for business far earlier. The 2017 is still pretty youthful but the dark red fruits are singing over a firm, Saint-Estephe-ish frame with blood orange and coffee sealing the finish. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. 94 points James Suckling, 4 6-packs available, $59.99 +tax

Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrogio 2015 Piedmont

A rather thick and robust offering (from the record-breaking hot 2015 July, no doubt) from a family winery who’ll be celebrating their centennial in a little over a year. The Ambrogio vineyard is found in the lesser-known Barolo commune of Roddi in the north, and its wines are a balance of masculine and feminine, it’s a beast on the palate, for sure, but it smells so pretty. Citrus, orange peel and mint infiltrate the bright red fruits on the nose, there are pronounced, fine tannins but 1) that’s kind of baked into the Nebbiolo cake and 2) there’s almost enough generous body to balance it. 97 points James Suckling, 2 wooden 6-packs available, $104.98 +tax

Elio Sandri Barolo Perno Riserva 2012 Piedmont

I know there’s a whole lot of folks waiting for this one. Curmudgeonly traditionalist extraordinaire, Mr. Sandri returns to us with elegant tobacco, mint and cedar notes, and a Bruce Banner-ish hidden power that is only brought to the fore with a good long decant. I missed this guy. 94 points Vinous, 3 6-packs available, $94.98 +tax

SPAIN

CVNE Monopole Bianco Clasico 2015, Rioja

This wine never gets the points it deserves (although it’s #17 on Vine-Pair’s top 50! Huzzah!) but that kind of only makes me love it more. You aren’t actually allowed to make white Rioja this way, but since CVNE has been doing it since before cars, it got grandfathered in. Monopole Classico is neutral-barrel-aged Viura (with Malvasia) with 5% dry Manzanilla Sherry added in. That little move completely upends the texture and feel of the wine, transforming the aromatics (yeast, nuts, spice on top of citrus cream) and the viscosity (creamy, dry and lingering). If you’re curious we’ll be pouring this in the River District Vintage Room tomorrow (Saturday) at 3pm. A steal at this price. 92 points Robert Parker, 2 cases available, $39.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!!

Featured Wines: Titans Of Tuscany

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).

Titans of Tuscany

By Jordan Carrier

As we settle into another couple of days of beautiful BC autumn, allow me to tell you about a few crackerjack Tuscan wines that have made their way to me of late. We start with the newly in-room elephants:

Antinori Tignanello 2016, Toscana

This is the best-rated vintage of Tig ever, and that’s saying a lot. Like the music of Bob Marley, what started as a vehicle of protest now flows freely at parties; Marchesi Antinori’s revolt against the crippling, grower-biased Chianti Classico DOCG rules of the early ‘70s (he used Barriques and folded in a bit of Cabernet, which carried the same sentence as Armed Robbery back then) is now itself a revered institution, a Tuscan avatar if you will, representing the brilliance of the region at least as well as Chianti has ever done. The 2016 vintage finds Tig in Prince Charming mode, showing less ripeness than the 2015 but somehow more depth, with elegant tannins and notes of red fruits, pine, rosemary and vanilla. Will likely burn off its baby fat in about 3 years. There’s a bit of a mania surrounding this vintage (same with Guado, below), so I wouldn’t wait too long to grab some… 98 points Vinous, 97 points Wine Spectator, 97 points Robert Parker, 15 6-packs available, $125.99 +tax

Antinori Guado al Tasso 2016 Bolgheri

At the risk of repeating myself, this is also the best-ever-rated vintage of Guado al Tasso, so when your great-grandkids ask about the “good old days”, this is what they’ll mean. As bold, complex and huge as its famous next-door Bolgheri neighbours but not so much in price, this Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blend has long been my favourite Antinori wine. Coffee and chocolate surround currants and plums before a focused, refined palate and a hot ‘n’ spicy finish. It’s like if Pauillac learned dirty dancing. This 2016 has the structure to last until robots learn to drink it, but our drinking window opens in 2 years, I’ll wager. 98 points Robert Parker, 98 points James Suckling, 5 wooden 6-packs available, $150.98 +tax

Carpineto Gran Selezione 2015, Chianti Classico

Don’t take your eyes off this winery, they’ve been killing it and show no signs of stopping. Fresh off their #11 placement on last year’s Top 100 (for the 2013 Vino Nobile), don’t be surprised if this statuesque Chianti, grown on 2 hectares in Dudda (in Greve) gets more listy-love this year too, it’s such great value. Aged 18 months in new French Oak, this Sangiovese is built for a journey: the reviews say you can approach it in 2 years but I’d wait a bit longer. Iron-rich black cherry notes, supported by licorice and lavender, great persistence and structure, this is a bargain for such a Cellar Star. 95 points Wine Spectator, 3 wooden 6-packs available, $67.98 +tax

Gaja Ca’Marcanda Vistamare 2017 Bolgheri

A rare white wine from Angelo Gaja’s Bolgheri house, made from Vermentino (unoaked), Fiano (unoaked) and Viognier (hella-oaked and fatter than a wiener dog running a Shake Shack), grown in a vineyard overlooking Bibbona beach (hence the name Vistamare). Gosh, this is pretty, with bergamot, pear, and nectarines on the nose, it closes with piercing minerality and a touch of salinity, full but crisp. 12 bottles available, $85.98 +tax

Le Potazzine 2013 Brunello di Montalcino

Run by Gigliola Gorelli with her two daughters, Potazzine is rising like a rocket in Montalcino, far more manically famous in Europe than here, perhaps because of Gigliola’s focus on elegance as her North Star. She paints with brushes, not hammers, and this Burgundian Brunello is refined, divine and ready to dine (sorry, that just kind of happened). Soft licorice notes with herbs, rocks, flowers and a solid core of blueberries, great acidity, long finish. Drinking now but will age gracefully, not unlike a Gevrey-Chambertin. I concede that framing it as “Girl-Brunello” is weird and a bit reductive, but Potazzine really does offer a refreshing kind of feminine take on the category. A rare new idea from that old mountain. 95 points Vinous, 94 points Robert Parker, 12 bottles available, $122.98

Livio Sassetti Pertimali 2013 Brunello di Montalcino

The Sassetti family traces their Brunello roots back to the beginning of the 20^th century, but the jewel in their crown remains the Pertimali vineyard on the famed hill of Montosoli (Altesino has a vineyard there too), north of the town. Montosoli Brunellos are civilized affairs, often featuring as many savoury notes as fruit. This 2013 follows suit with leather, mushroom and truffle supporting the black cherry and plum. Quite full for a north-side Brunello, with a warming finish full of baking spice and licorice. I forgot about these guys for a bit, I’m very glad to meet them again. 98 points James Suckling, 3 6-packs available, $94.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!

Featured Wines: Smart Bordeaux

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).

Smart Bordeaux

By Jordan Carrier

It’s Bordeaux season, which means that soon collectors all across the province will spend a perfectly good Saturday morning (that they could have spent playing Mario Kart) lining up outside government stores to get their one-bottle rations of Classified Growth, Tickle-Me-Elmo style.

Pshaw. We at Everything Wine are celebrating the near-perfect 2016 vintage by releasing absolutely stellar Bordeaux wines from lesser-known houses that provide just as much awesome without requiring a credit check. We call it Smart Bordeaux 2016, because these are indisputably better value, and also drinking them will make you smarter.* Most of these – just like the more famous labels – need sleepytimes before their windows open (buying new Bordeaux is like buying half-baked loaves of garlic bread, you have to do the rest yourself), but nevertheless we will pour a few of ‘em this Saturday at 3pm in the River District Vintage Room, if stocks hold. To the juice:

LEFT BANK

Chateau Fonréaud Cru Bourgeois 2016 Listrac-Médoc

In the 12^th century, Eleanor of Aquitaine and her husband Henry Plantagenet II (showbiz names: King and Queen of England) drank from a natural spring on this property, which became known as the Royal Fountain, or “Font-Réal”. Over time, “Font-Réal” evolved into “Fonréaud”, and today the Chanfreau family farms this, the highest vineyard in Médoc, and crushes the grapes in the Chateau they built there in 1855. Although easily 5 years out from go-time, there is already an unsinkable core of intense fruit on the nose, with shades of mocha, cocoa powder and full body before a spicy finish with elegant, citrus rind astringency. 92 points Wine Enthusiast, 18 bottles available, $49.99 +tax

Chateau Cambon La Pelouse Cru Bourgeois 2016 Haut-Médoc

Every year 166 Cru Bourgeois submit to a jury of 35 experts to decide the vintage’s Best Cru Bourgeois. There are 12 finalists but only one winner, and this year that winner was Ch Cambon La Pelouse 2016, an Haut-Médoc estate on the border of Margaux, sandwiched between Ch Giscours and Ch Cantemerle and owned by Ch Angelus. Half/Half Cab/Merlot with 4% Petit Verdot smushed in there somewhere, there are notes of mint, ripe dark fruit and hay, but this baby doesn’t even know words yet. This is a Cellar Star, rather inscrutable now but singing in 10 years, it’s built like a Predator Drone. Future You says thanks. 93 points Wine Enthusiast (Editors Choice), WINNER – Cru Bourgeois Competition 2019, 22 bottles available, $54.99 +tax

Chateau Paloumey Cru Bourgeois 2016 Haut-Médoc

Paloumey, situated in the warmer southern end of Medoc, was a Hot Tamale in the early 1800s, close to Bordeaux city and so popular with the locals it was praised in the second edition of “Bordeaux and its Wines” published by Féret in 1868. Phylloxera and two world wars took their economic toll, however, and the estate’s owners abandoned it in 1950, leaving the vineyard to become a popular hot spot for rabbits and deer for 40 years (I expect the new patrons called it Chateau Munch Munch Munch). Martine Cazeneuve bought what was left of the estate in 1990, renovated, replanted, and brought it up to Cru Bourgeois status in under a decade. This 2016 is an elegant, medium-weighted affair, with savoury notes balancing the juicy fruit (blackberry and plum) on nose and palate, with vanilla and tobacco notes closing the lid. Needs about 3 years, but so lovely. We’re pouring Paloumey on Saturday at 3pm. 93 points Wine Enthusiast, 22 bottles available, $49.99 +tax

Chateau Larrivaux 2016 Haut-Medoc

Part of the Tesseron family (Lafon-Rochet), Larrivaux sits at the doorstep of Saint-Estephe in the commune of Cissac, and accordingly has a smidge more Merlot than Cab, given the clay-rich soils there. Rich and chewy with robust tannins and a spicy, hot finish, with more citrus rind and sour cherries on the nose. Hints of violets, licorice and blackberry. Closer to the promised land than many others on this offer, but we’re still about a year away. Very yum, see for yourself when we pour Larrivaux this Saturday at 3pm. 92 points Wine Spectator, 92 poinrs James Suckling, 22 bottles available, $46.99 +tax

RIGHT BANK

Chateaux Saintayme 2016 Saint-Émillon

Denis Durantou owns and runs a few estates on Bordeaux’s Right Bank – notably the insanely hard to get Pomerol Ch L’Eglise Clinet - but this tiny  estate on the eastern edge of Saint-Émillon is by far the best value. Although he plants a smidge of Cabernet Franc on the property, this 2016 Saintayme is 100% Merlot from 35-year-old vines, and it’s bursting with black cherries and mocha with kirsch notes and crushed rocks. Quite rich, although we’re about 3 years away from Act One. 93 points James Suckling, 20 bottles available, $59.99 +tax

ENTRE-DEUX-MERS

Chateau Le Doyenne 2016 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux

The sparse, largely forested Entre-Deux-Mers region is a kind of peninsula between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, thus between the Left and Right bank. Although one of the first areas in Bordeaux to plant vines – back in the times of Julius Caesar – the modern age hasn’t embraced the area, largely relegated to bulk wines and party hooch, except…. The Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux AOP has been wresting quality out of the ancient river deposits of sandstone and clay along its southern bank, producing rich, Merlot-based wines with medium structure and great approachability. Doyenne has farmed this shore since 1781, and this 2016 is teeming with blueberries in violet skirts, with soft tannins and immediate drinkability. Try this on Saturday as well! 92 points Robert Parker, 22 bottles available, $42.99 +tax