Thursday, December 19, 2019

Featured Wines: Season's Rieslings

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).




Season's Rieslings


Hi Everyone!

**A Quick Word From Your Holiday Turkey**

Gobble, everyone! Hope you’re having a gobbly-great holiday season! I’m not particularly, I’m sitting in your freezer waiting to be baked and eaten, but no hard feelings – Gobble knows if I were bigger than you and had thumbs and could recognize my own reflection, well, y’all would be on my plate too. Before all that happens, though, I’d like to ask a question that me and the other Turkeys in the yard have been wondering:

Why don’t you drink Riesling with me?

Whether it’s dry or sweet, Riesling pairs with me and my fixin’s, like gravy, stuffing and cranberry sauce, in fact it’s one of the only wines that can check all of those boxes. The fruit balances the saline notes and the tartaric acid cuts through the fat. It’s so perfect it’s almost like turkeys invented it (except we woulda called it Gobble), but every Christmas y’all show up with Apothic and J. Lohr and the like… I’d shake my head disapprovingly if my neck weren’t, you know, right over there.

Riesling, folks. It’s really quite gobble.

**A Quick Word From Your Christmas Ham**

Oink, folks. I don’t often agree with my fine feathered friend there, but everything the bird just said about Riesling also applies to me. Baked ham and Riesling, guys. It’s oinking delicious.

**I am so sorry, here are some yum Rieslings**

Pegasus Bay, Waipara, New Zealand

I’m very excited to offer these unique and ultra-rare Rieslings – in fact I’m the only retailer in BC to offer these, they were imported at my request. The Donaldson family farms the vineyards in Waipara, north of Christchurch on the South Island, and differ from their Marlborough counterparts by inviting Botrytis into the mix. Often employed in sweet late-harvest and Spätlese/Auslese Rieslings, the Noble Rot concentrates the sugars in the shriveling grapes and increases phenolics, and the Donaldsons render those grapes two ways:

Pegasus Bay “Bel Canto” 2017 Dry Riesling
An electric, statuesque, Botrytis-affected Riesling vinified dry, to an austere 5g/l residual sugar. Ginger, apricot and orange peel on the nose precede a stratified, richly structured body that calls to mind Smaragd Riesling from Wachau, Austria (but with way more fruit weight). The Botrytis adds waxy texture and depth, the acidity is considerable but completely in balance, bolstered by a very slight effervescence that adds the last few volts to the long finish. An altogether new Idea, I’ve never quite tasted anything like it. 95 points Cameron Douglas MS*, 94 points Bob Campbell MW*, 2 6-packs available, $59.98 +tax

Pegasus Bay “Aria” 2016 Late Picked Riesling
Pushes the Pleasure Buttons faster and more frequently than a caffeinated squirrel playing Call of Duty, like someone dunked a plugged-in toaster into a Gold Capsule Auslese. Key Lime pie, jasmine and melons swirl around a lemon-yellow body of sweetness and delight. 50% Botrytis, 83g/l residual, 11% Alcohol, this is powerful, heady stuff, but the shining streak of tartaric acid saves the day and brings a fresh zing to the finish – this pairs with Foie, Crème Brulée and Stilton, not pancakes. Simply gorgeous, drink this and try not to smile, it’s impossible. 95 points Bob Campbell MW, 93 points Robert Parker, 2 6-packs available, $59.98 +tax

August Kesseler “530,3” Riesling Spätlese 2006 Rheingau, Germany
Put simply, this wine is having more fun than you. This wine is eating nougat and you are not. This wine smells like honeyed grapefruit with slate and you don’t. This wine is 13 years old and I truly hope you are not. Exclusive to Everything Wine, this is a perfectly-aged Rheingau Riesling that’s just off-dry enough to be naughty but structured enough to go a further decade if you can wait (you can’t). August Kesseler took over his family’s winery in the ‘70s and has been at the forefront of the qualitative renaissance that the Rheingau region – previously known for jug-filling – has enjoyed over the last few decades. This 2006 is a staff favourite for very good reason. 3 6-packs available, $59.98 +tax

Jim Barry “The Florita” Riesling 2018 Clare Valley, Australia
Built like an arrow, The Florita (means “wee flower”) has always been one of Australia’s Tent Pole Rieslings, showing the bright, linear purity of the Clare Valley, and serving as an antidote to the Barry family’s spine-crushing reds. Brilliant citrus and stones on the nose, business-like and fresh on the palate with a miles-long finish. Decades of cellaring potential, here, it’s like Grand Cru Alsace with blinders on. 96 points James Halliday, 6 bottles available, $71.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!!

*Cameron Douglas MS is New Zealand’s only Master Sommelier, reviews NZ wines more than most, and should have picked a different domain name than camerondouglasms.com. Likewise, Bob Campbell is one of two NZ Masters of Wine, specializes in that country’s wines, and his domain name is fine.

Tuesday, December 17, 2019

2019 Icon Wine of the Year

For 2019 we anoint our first Merlot as the winner of the Icon Wine of the Year award. Honorable mentions go to Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2015 The Creek and to Achaval Ferrer Winery 2017 Malbec for placing in our top 3.







2019 Icon Wine of the Year


Little Engine Wines 2017 Gold Merlot
100% Merlot
$55 - 14.8%
93-94pts


The Little Engine 'Gold Merlot' is an uber-elegant, yet, concentrated and perfectly ripe expression of the Bordeaux variety reminiscent of blending the styles of high-end Sonoma and Napa Valley Merlot. Full bodied, yet, effortless on the palate and approachable in its youth, yet, possessing the structure and 'bones' to age beautifully. Layers of delicate, sweet red fruit and savoury, baking notes grace the feminine nose and super refined, approachable palate. Enjoy now or hold for further development. Drink 2020-2025.
Full Review



Previous Winners


  • 2018 - Black Hills 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2017 - Black Hills 2015 Syrah and Painted Rock 2015 Syrah
  • 2016 - Cassini Cellars 2013 The Aristocrat
  • 2015 - Le Vieux Pin 2012 Équinoxe Syrah
  • 2014 - Painted Rock 2012 Red Icon
  • 2013 Stag's Hollow Winery 2010 Cachet No. 03
  • 2012 - Painted Rock Estate Winery 2011 Chardonnay
  • 2011 - Fairview Cellars 2009 The Wrath
  • 2010 - Stratus Vineyards 2007 Red
  • 2009 - Blackwood Lane Winery 2006 Alliance

Top 10 Icon Wines of the Year

For our Top 10 list we are using a subjective approach taking into account availability, collectability and relevance in the world of wine. All Top 10 Icon Wines of the Year were released within the calendar year in the BC market. Reviews based on barrel samples were excluded.

#1 - Icon Wine of the Year

Little Engine Wines 2017 Gold Merlot - $55
Full bodied, yet, effortless on the palate and approachable in its youth, yet, possessing the structure and 'bones' to age beautifully. Layers of delicate, sweet red fruit and savoury, baking notes grace the feminine nose and super refined, approachable palate.
Full Review








#2

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2015 The Creek
Opening with a perfumed nose of sun-warmed cherries, potpourri, sweet and savoury spices, blueberry compote, hazelnuts and vanilla, this charming, age-worthy wine offers good continuity of flavours with fine, lightly-smoked tannins and tangy, blackberry acidity framing the full-bodied, long-lasting palate. Simply delicious. 
Full Review







#3

Achaval Ferrer Winery 2017 Malbec
This is an uber extracted, smokey, seductress of a Malbec with an intense, aromatic, black fruit'n'incense scented nose and an equally intense, chewy palate with rounded tannins, dense, dark fruit, smokey spices and bright, fresh blackberry acidity. A fantastic wine for BBQ meats or dark chocolate.
Full Review







#4


Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery 2017 Blaufrankisch
Blaufrankisch is a late-ripening, rarely seen grape of Central European origins which produces a spicy, medium-plus bodied wine and, commenting frankly, will never catch on in North America unless it is disguised as part of a proprietary blend thanks to its hard-to-say, unfamiliar name. A shame, really, since it can match the complexity of a G-S-M blend by itself and makes the most out of minimal oak contact.
Full Review






#5

Quails' Gate Estate Winery 2017 Old Vines Foch Reserve
Opens with a nose to dive deep into and stay awhile to explore around a little. You'll discover a seductive blend of Kirsch liqueur, cocoa nibs, sweet salami and the pleasing, familiar notes of Christmas cake with its dried, candied fruit. The dry palate is uber food-friendly with well-balanced acidity, mannered tobacco-leaf tannins and similar notes as the nose. Pair with braised venison or other gamey meats at your next special holiday dinner.
Full Review





#6

River Stone Estate Winery 2016 Corner Stone
A Right Bank inspired composition of 42% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot showcases Oliver-grown fruit in a beautiful way with a harmonious blend of ripe, dark fruit, minty-goodness, light oak, vanilla, savoury herbs and feminine notes of flowers and incense.
Full Review







#7

Painted Rock Estate Winery 2016 Red Icon
This year, a blend of 44% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Malbec combine to showcase the lively, fruitier elements of each varietal with fewer brooding characters than is previous years. Still refined and elegant, as always, with layers of savoury goodness (oak, spice, herbs and a touch of leather) but also cheerful and aromatic, very feminine.
Full Review






#8

Quails' Gate Estate Winery 2017 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay
Oh so elegant and smooth, this French oak kissed Chardonnay is both rich and focused with a full-ish body, juicy peach and nectarine aromas and flavours supported by concentrated minerality on the nose and palate which elevate the balance and structure. A long-lasting finish offers lingering citrus zest, signature macadamia nuts and a hint of exotic spices.
Full Review






#9

SpearHead Winery 2017 Pinot Noir Cuvée
This Cuvée bottling represents the winery's best barrels of its many Dijon clones blended with an eye on elegance and depth. Opening with a youthful, layered nose of creamy raspberry, forest floor, huckleberry and sweet, smoky, BBQ Salmon crackling aromas. A full, yet, lively, dry palate follows with a similar mix of sweet and savoury flavours; dark cherry, cocoa, light smoke, vanilla and a touch of spicy oak and amaretto liqueur on the long finish. 
Full Review





#10

Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery 2016 Summit
Bold, ripe and concentrated with both fine texture and weight to pair with lean, grilled meats, but not too much body, staying fairly fluid and graceful. 'Big', yes, but 'balanced', mostly. Look for classic New World Meritage flavours of dark fruits, pipe tobacco and spices supported by toasted oak, a touch of graphite and other mineraly notes.
Full Review


 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2019 IconWines.ca

Featured Wines: Christmas 2019

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).




Santa's Got A Brand New Bag





Hi Everyone!
We’re late enough into the season that I can spoil the ending of the Christmas movie: Santa’s spirit was inside of us the whole time. That means buying wine for yourself is totally cool. I have some ideas:

AUSTRALIA
John Duval Eligo Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley
A stellar Shiraz from the man who made 16 vintages of Grange. The semi-retired former Penfolds head winemaker (he won World Winemaker of the Year twice) returned to his family’s vineyards in 2003, producing small batches of gorgeous Shiraz like this 2013 Eligo, showing violets, licorice and dark chocolate over a molten core of blueberry and eucalyptus. Perfect purity of fruit and purpose. 98 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs available, $84.98 +tax

CHILE
De Martino Vigno 2016 Maule Valley
Now this is something new, why wasn’t it on my radar before? A Carignan-based field blend (Malbec fills the holes) from Aguada, a 60-year-old dry farmed vineyard in the Maule. A fascinating nose – if you could see aromas this would be Technicolor, with flowers, earth, game and red berries, a balance of sweet and savoury scents – but the big body and finish are classically elegant, not unlike a Hermitage. Wow. 97 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs available, $61.98

FRANCE
Louis Roederer Cristal 2008 Champagne
I’ve already seen a dozen cases of this instant classic bounce off this store, but I did manage to snag a tad more for the Holidays. Boasting some of the best scores in decades, the 2008 Cristal (held back and released after the yummy 2009) has been called a “perfect wine” by Jeb Dunnuck – the nose of apple, cream and toasted spices runs seamlessly into a honeyed body of ginger, orange peel and chalk. There’s so much going on, here. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 100% not gonna be here by 2020. 100 points James Suckling, 100 points Jeb Dunnuck, 98 points Decanter, 98 points Wine Enthusiast, 97 points Wine Spectator, 3 3-packs available, $295.99

Chateau Suduiraut 1982 Sauternes (375ml)
What does Forever taste like? Honey, walnuts and beeswax, evidently. This low-key estate (close to Yquem) dates back to the 1500s, and the only reason it’s not charging an arm and a leg is because of the meh quality of its mid-20th century output, a problem that was more than remedied by 1982, when new owners started to make classic Sauternes again. 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, browning a tad, with waxy, nutty notes sand a layered, medium-sweet deployment. Pairs with Netflix. 1 wooden 12 pack (and some wee loose bottles too), $65.98 /375ml

ITALY
Felsina Fontalloro 2016 Toscana I.G.T. 
The Tuscan 2016 vintage is like a baseball player who’s already scored a home run but keeps running around the bases over and over. We get it, dude, you’re awesome. Accordingly, this 100% Sangiovese from high-altitude vineyards in Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi is an instant legend, a cellar-ready beast that exudes cassis and licorice over earthy minerality – think Flaccianello crossed with a Barolo. Probably best past 2022, but I have noticed that many Tuscan 2016s stop biting after 5+ hours in a decanter, so… game on? 98+ points Robert Parker, 98 points James Suckling, 3 6-packs available, $109.98

Guidalberto 2017 Toscana I.G.T. 
The famous younger brother to Sassicaia has developed its own following independent of that house’s Grand Vin, the value is fantastic and the doors open for business far earlier. The 2017 is still pretty youthful but the dark red fruits are singing over a firm, Saint-Estephe-ish frame with blood orange and coffee sealing the finish. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. 94 points James Suckling, 4 6-packs available, $59.99 +tax

Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrogio 2015 Piedmont
A rather thick and robust offering (from the record-breaking hot 2015 July, no doubt) from a family winery who’ll be celebrating their centennial in a little over a year. The Ambrogio vineyard is found in the lesser-known Barolo commune of Roddi in the north, and its wines are a balance of masculine and feminine, it’s a beast on the palate, for sure, but it smells so pretty. Citrus, orange peel and mint infiltrate the bright red fruits on the nose, there are pronounced, fine tannins but 1) that’s kind of baked into the Nebbiolo cake and 2) there’s almost enough generous body to balance it. 97 points James Suckling, 2 wooden 6-packs available, $104.98 +tax

Elio Sandri Barolo Perno Riserva 2012 Piedmont
I know there’s a whole lot of folks waiting for this one. Curmudgeonly traditionalist extraordinaire, Mr. Sandri returns to us with elegant tobacco, mint and cedar notes, and a Bruce Banner-ish hidden power that is only brought to the fore with a good long decant. I missed this guy. 94 points Vinous, 3 6-packs available, $94.98 +tax

SPAIN
CVNE Monopole Bianco Clasico 2015, Rioja
This wine never gets the points it deserves (although it’s #17 on Vine-Pair’s top 50! Huzzah!) but that kind of only makes me love it more. You aren’t actually allowed to make white Rioja this way, but since CVNE has been doing it since before cars, it got grandfathered in. Monopole Classico is neutral-barrel-aged Viura (with Malvasia) with 5% dry Manzanilla Sherry added in. That little move completely upends the texture and feel of the wine, transforming the aromatics (yeast, nuts, spice on top of citrus cream) and the viscosity (creamy, dry and lingering). If you’re curious we’ll be pouring this in the River District Vintage Room tomorrow (Saturday) at 3pm. A steal at this price. 92 points Robert Parker, 2 cases available, $39.98 +tax

Until next time, Happy Drinking!!

Tuesday, November 5, 2019

Featured Wines: Titans Of Tuscany

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).




Titans of Tuscany

As we settle into another couple of days of beautiful BC autumn, allow me to tell you about a few crackerjack Tuscan wines that have made their way to me of late. We start with the newly in-room elephants:

Antinori Tignanello 2016, Toscana
This is the best-rated vintage of Tig ever, and that’s saying a lot. Like the music of Bob Marley, what started as a vehicle of protest now flows freely at parties; Marchesi Antinori’s revolt against the crippling, grower-biased Chianti Classico DOCG rules of the early ‘70s (he used Barriques and folded in a bit of Cabernet, which carried the same sentence as Armed Robbery back then) is now itself a revered institution, a Tuscan avatar if you will, representing the brilliance of the region at least as well as Chianti has ever done. The 2016 vintage finds Tig in Prince Charming mode, showing less ripeness than the 2015 but somehow more depth, with elegant tannins and notes of red fruits, pine, rosemary and vanilla. Will likely burn off its baby fat in about 3 years. There’s a bit of a mania surrounding this vintage (same with Guado, below), so I wouldn’t wait too long to grab some… 98 points Vinous, 97 points Wine Spectator, 97 points Robert Parker, 15 6-packs available, $125.99 +tax

Antinori Guado al Tasso 2016 Bolgheri
At the risk of repeating myself, this is also the best-ever-rated vintage of Guado al Tasso, so when your great-grandkids ask about the “good old days”, this is what they’ll mean. As bold, complex and huge as its famous next-door Bolgheri neighbours but not so much in price, this Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blend has long been my favourite Antinori wine. Coffee and chocolate surround currants and plums before a focused, refined palate and a hot ‘n’ spicy finish. It’s like if Pauillac learned dirty dancing. This 2016 has the structure to last until robots learn to drink it, but our drinking window opens in 2 years, I’ll wager. 98 points Robert Parker, 98 points James Suckling, 5 wooden 6-packs available, $150.98 +tax

Carpineto Gran Selezione 2015, Chianti Classico
Don’t take your eyes off this winery, they’ve been killing it and show no signs of stopping. Fresh off their #11 placement on last year’s Top 100 (for the 2013 Vino Nobile), don’t be surprised if this statuesque Chianti, grown on 2 hectares in Dudda (in Greve) gets more listy-love this year too, it’s such great value. Aged 18 months in new French Oak, this Sangiovese is built for a journey: the reviews say you can approach it in 2 years but I’d wait a bit longer. Iron-rich black cherry notes, supported by licorice and lavender, great persistence and structure, this is a bargain for such a Cellar Star. 95 points Wine Spectator, 3 wooden 6-packs available, $67.98 +tax

Gaja Ca’Marcanda Vistamare 2017 Bolgheri
A rare white wine from Angelo Gaja’s Bolgheri house, made from Vermentino (unoaked), Fiano (unoaked) and Viognier (hella-oaked and fatter than a wiener dog running a Shake Shack), grown in a vineyard overlooking Bibbona beach (hence the name Vistamare). Gosh, this is pretty, with bergamot, pear, and nectarines on the nose, it closes with piercing minerality and a touch of salinity, full but crisp. 12 bottles available, $85.98 +tax

Le Potazzine 2013 Brunello di Montalcino
Run by Gigliola Gorelli with her two daughters, Potazzine is rising like a rocket in Montalcino, far more manically famous in Europe than here, perhaps because of Gigliola’s focus on elegance as her North Star. She paints with brushes, not hammers, and this Burgundian Brunello is refined, divine and ready to dine (sorry, that just kind of happened). Soft licorice notes with herbs, rocks, flowers and a solid core of blueberries, great acidity, long finish. Drinking now but will age gracefully, not unlike a Gevrey-Chambertin. I concede that framing it as “Girl-Brunello” is weird and a bit reductive, but Potazzine really does offer a refreshing kind of feminine take on the category. A rare new idea from that old mountain. 95 points Vinous, 94 points Robert Parker, 12 bottles available, $122.98

Livio Sassetti Pertimali 2013 Brunello di Montalcino
The Sassetti family traces their Brunello roots back to the beginning of the 20th century, but the jewel in their crown remains the Pertimali vineyard on the famed hill of Montosoli (Altesino has a vineyard there too), north of the town. Montosoli Brunellos are civilized affairs, often featuring as many savoury notes as fruit. This 2013 follows suit with leather, mushroom and truffle supporting the black cherry and plum. Quite full for a north-side Brunello, with a warming finish full of baking spice and licorice. I forgot about these guys for a bit, I’m very glad to meet them again. 98 points James Suckling, 3 6-packs available, $94.98 +tax
Until next time, Happy Drinking!

Tuesday, October 8, 2019

Featured Wines: Smart Bordeaux

If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).




Smart Bordeaux

It’s Bordeaux season, which means that soon collectors all across the province will spend a perfectly good Saturday morning (that they could have spent playing Mario Kart) lining up outside government stores to get their one-bottle rations of Classified Growth, Tickle-Me-Elmo style.
Pshaw. We at Everything Wine are celebrating the near-perfect 2016 vintage by releasing absolutely stellar Bordeaux wines from lesser-known houses that provide just as much awesome without requiring a credit check. We call it Smart Bordeaux 2016, because these are indisputably better value, and also drinking them will make you smarter.* Most of these – just like the more famous labels – need sleepytimes before their windows open (buying new Bordeaux is like buying half-baked loaves of garlic bread, you have to do the rest yourself), but nevertheless we will pour a few of ‘em this Saturday at 3pm in the River District Vintage Room, if stocks hold. To the juice:

LEFT BANK
Chateau Fonréaud Cru Bourgeois 2016 Listrac-Médoc
In the 12th century, Eleanor of Aquitaine and her husband Henry Plantagenet II (showbiz names: King and Queen of England) drank from a natural spring on this property, which became known as the Royal Fountain, or “Font-Réal”. Over time, “Font-Réal” evolved into “Fonréaud”, and today the Chanfreau family farms this, the highest vineyard in Médoc, and crushes the grapes in the Chateau they built there in 1855. Although easily 5 years out from go-time, there is already an unsinkable core of intense fruit on the nose, with shades of mocha, cocoa powder and full body before a spicy finish with elegant, citrus rind astringency. 92 points Wine Enthusiast, 18 bottles available, $49.99 +tax
Chateau Cambon La Pelouse Cru Bourgeois 2016 Haut-Médoc
Every year 166 Cru Bourgeois submit to a jury of 35 experts to decide the vintage’s Best Cru Bourgeois. There are 12 finalists but only one winner, and this year that winner was Ch Cambon La Pelouse 2016, an Haut-Médoc estate on the border of Margaux, sandwiched between Ch Giscours and Ch Cantemerle and owned by Ch Angelus. Half/Half Cab/Merlot with 4% Petit Verdot smushed in there somewhere, there are notes of mint, ripe dark fruit and hay, but this baby doesn’t even know words yet. This is a Cellar Star, rather inscrutable now but singing in 10 years, it’s built like a Predator Drone. Future You says thanks. 93 points Wine Enthusiast (Editors Choice), WINNER – Cru Bourgeois Competition 2019, 22 bottles available, $54.99 +tax
Chateau Paloumey Cru Bourgeois 2016 Haut-Médoc
Paloumey, situated in the warmer southern end of Medoc, was a Hot Tamale in the early 1800s, close to Bordeaux city and so popular with the locals it was praised in the second edition of “Bordeaux and its Wines” published by Féret in 1868. Phylloxera and two world wars took their economic toll, however, and the estate’s owners abandoned it in 1950, leaving the vineyard to become a popular hot spot for rabbits and deer for 40 years (I expect the new patrons called it Chateau Munch Munch Munch). Martine Cazeneuve bought what was left of the estate in 1990, renovated, replanted, and brought it up to Cru Bourgeois status in under a decade. This 2016 is an elegant, medium-weighted affair, with savoury notes balancing the juicy fruit (blackberry and plum) on nose and palate, with vanilla and tobacco notes closing the lid. Needs about 3 years, but so lovely. We’re pouring Paloumey on Saturday at 3pm. 93 points Wine Enthusiast, 22 bottles available, $49.99 +tax
Chateau Larrivaux 2016 Haut-Medoc
Part of the Tesseron family (Lafon-Rochet), Larrivaux sits at the doorstep of Saint-Estephe in the commune of Cissac, and accordingly has a smidge more Merlot than Cab, given the clay-rich soils there. Rich and chewy with robust tannins and a spicy, hot finish, with more citrus rind and sour cherries on the nose. Hints of violets, licorice and blackberry. Closer to the promised land than many others on this offer, but we’re still about a year away. Very yum, see for yourself when we pour Larrivaux this Saturday at 3pm92 points Wine Spectator, 92 poinrs James Suckling, 22 bottles available, $46.99 +tax

RIGHT BANK
Chateaux Saintayme 2016 Saint-Émillon
Denis Durantou owns and runs a few estates on Bordeaux’s Right Bank – notably the insanely hard to get Pomerol Ch L’Eglise Clinet - but this tiny  estate on the eastern edge of Saint-Émillon is by far the best value. Although he plants a smidge of Cabernet Franc on the property, this 2016 Saintayme is 100% Merlot from 35-year-old vines, and it’s bursting with black cherries and mocha with kirsch notes and crushed rocks. Quite rich, although we’re about 3 years away from Act One. 93 points James Suckling, 20 bottles available, $59.99 +tax
ENTRE-DEUX-MERS
Chateau Le Doyenne 2016 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
The sparse, largely forested Entre-Deux-Mers region is a kind of peninsula between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, thus between the Left and Right bank. Although one of the first areas in Bordeaux to plant vines – back in the times of Julius Caesar – the modern age hasn’t embraced the area, largely relegated to bulk wines and party hooch, except…. The Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux AOP has been wresting quality out of the ancient river deposits of sandstone and clay along its southern bank, producing rich, Merlot-based wines with medium structure and great approachability. Doyenne has farmed this shore since 1781, and this 2016 is teeming with blueberries in violet skirts, with soft tannins and immediate drinkability. Try this on Saturday as well92 points Robert Parker, 22 bottles available, $42.99 +tax

Wednesday, July 24, 2019

Varietal Focus: BC Sauvignon Blanc

Not a lot of Sauvignon Blanc is grown in BC, it certainly isn't a signature grape of the Province's wine regions... any of them. That doesn't mean there aren't some absolutely fabulous versions of the ancient varietal on option.

There is no one definitive style of BC Sauvignon Blanc. Some showcase the pungent, or, pleasantly stinky characteristics of the varietal while others focus more on clean, crisp expressions of acidic and mouth-watering fruit. 

Here is a list of our favourite Sauvignon Blanc, year-in, year-out, grouped by style:

Pungent

Fairview Cellars 2018 Sauvignon Blanc - $22
A pleasantly pungent and boisterous vintage of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours of gooseberries, grapefruit, crab apple, stone fruit, and grass. This Sauvignon Blanc has body and a corpulent, complex texture with layers of fruit peaking through tart tinges of citrus acidity and crisp, mineral notes.
Icon Score

River Stone Estate Winery 2018 Sauvignon Blanc - $22
Subtler, on the pleasantly pungent nose than recent, more aromatic vintages, the 2018 edition of Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from a neighboring property in Oliver, keeps with the house style of a punchy mixture of herbs, citrus zest and tropical fruit.
Icon Score






Clean'n'Crisp

Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars 2018 Sauvignon Blanc - $25
Opens with a subtle, Loire-esque scented nose with a focus more on fresh, fleshy fruit and rounded savoury aromas than the more in-your-face, pungent, New Zealand style of Sauvignon Blanc. This subtlety is juxtaposed by a bracing wave of Champagne-worthy acidity on the otherwise, similarly flavoured palate where added notes of herbs, spice, minerals and lemon zest add complexity.
Icon Score

Bench 1775 Winery 2017 Estate Sauvignon Blanc - $26
This new release leans more towards the Loire Valley in profile when compared to the multi-site blends of previous vintages. Less pungency and more laser-focused fruit and minerality, though, a touch of exotic fruit shows on the otherwise, stonefruit and citrusy-peach flavoured finish.
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Somewhere In-between

La Frenz Winery 2018 Sauvignon Blanc - $22
A balanced, well-constructed Sauvignon Blanc with a touch of pungency on the nose but primarily a showcase for how nicely citrus and melon fruit can coexist. The palate is bright and lip-smacking with just a hint of residual sugar on the lightly savoury and effervescent finish. Ready to be enjoyed in its youth.
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Winemaker's Cut 2018 Sauvignon Blanc - $26
A single vineyard cuvée sourced from Oliver, explores textural layers on its crisp, mineraly and fruity palate and offers a subtle, delicate medley of citrus, tropical and orchard fruit aromas on the nose. Slightly dialed back from the extravagant 2017 edition, though, likely more accessible to the more casual fans of this pungent varietal.

- Liam Carrier ©copyright 2019 IconWines.ca

Sunday, July 7, 2019

Summer Sippers 2019


Summer is here! Celebrate the long days and short nights. Bask in the sun and in good conversation. Relax and enjoy a nice glass of wine. Winter was tough, Spring lingered... you deserve a sip of Summer. Here are our selections to make the most of your favourite Summer locals:

On the Patio
If you're in need of some patio time and want to spend it enjoying a nice glass of wine then this is the section for you. Chances are, even if your patio (or deck) isn't drenched in sunlight you may still want a wine that makes you feel as though it is. Here are some refreshing patio sippers for summer:


Stag's Hollow Winery 2017 Tragically Vidal - $17
An off-dry, delicate, delight of a Summer Sipper, Stag's Hollow's Tragically Vidal is as playful and joyous as its colourful label suggests. Look for subtle, aromatic notes of blossoms and pitted fruits; nectarines, peaches and apricots supported by a touch of herbs and some light citrus notes.

Quails' Gate Estate Winery 2018 Chasselas Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris - $18
Clean, crisp and so refreshing, this blend of 60% Chasselas, 20% Pinot Blanc, and 20% Pinot Gris makes an excellent pairing for your next sun-drenched patio visit thanks to its cheerful, citrus and Asian pear scented nose and its mouth-watering, textured and lightly-spiced, stone fruit flavoured palate.

Monte Creek Ranch 2018 Riesling - $19
A white gold coloured Riesling bursting with intense citrus and green apple flavours and acidity whilst off-dry levels of residual sugar (8.9 g/l) mount an counter offensive to bring balance to The Force, though, somewhat failing short... this is not a Riesling for the faint of heart. It's an adventure, one best attempted on a hot Summer's day.

Winemaker's Cut 2018 Rosé - $22
An elegant rosé, in every way; colour (pale watermelon), bouquet (subtle strawberry shortcake) and mouthfeel (layers of strawberry and fresh peach acidity). Finish is balanced, though, a tad short with just a flash of citrus peel and spice lingering. 




At the Cabin/Cottage
Enjoying a bottle of wine at your own cabin/cottage or as a guest may include the following: sharing with people you don't know, sipping in darkness, fighting-off mosquitoes or sitting close to the fire for warmth. For this sort of situation you may want a rustic wine or something that evolves in the glass - as you may not have easy access to a refill. We suggest the following:

Stag's Hollow Winery 2018 Albariño - $20
Opens with an exotic nose of papaya, candied peach, kiwi, melon andcitrus aromas followed by a textural palate with a juicy, melon fruit-driven entry and a mineral-kissed, mouth-watering, crisp finish. Coming into its own with maturing vines and a maturing fermentation/elevage program in the winery. Can stand alone, enhance your favourute salty snacks or pair harmoniously with any white fish recipe.

Mascota Vineyards 2015 Unanime - $28
A hedonistic blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec and 15% Cabernet Franc, the Unanime shows lively, dark and red fruit aromas on the fruit-forward, expressive nose with notes of vanilla, sweet incense smoke and herbs in the background. 

Quails' Gate Estate Winery 2017 Pinot Noir - $30
A well-balanced Pinot Noir with classic BC-Pinot characters of equal parts; brambly berries, savoury cedar and dried herbs. Smooth on the pretty nose and the fine-tannin, wild berry acid palate. 

SpearHead Winery 2017 Pinot Noir Cuvée - $38
This Cuvée bottling represents the winery's best barrels of its many Dijon clones blended with an eye on elegance and depth. Opening with a youthful, layered nose of creamy raspberry, forest floor, huckleberry and sweet, smoky, BBQ Salmon crackling aromas. A full, yet, lively, dry palate follows with a similar mix of sweet and savoury flavours; dark cherry, cocoa, light smoke, vanilla and a touch of spicy oak and amaretto liqueur on the long finish. 

At a BBQ
BBQ wines are a capricious bunch. They must be robust to pair with the burnt piece of chicken your uncle John cooks up and be flexible to match with the mystery sausage of unknown origin on the grill. Big, bold, yet, approachable reds are your best bet. Here are a few to choose from:

Doña Paula 2016 Estate Malbec - $18
A typical, fruity/juicy/fresh Malbec from the Valle De Uco in the Mendoza, but happily, with some smokey goodness on appealing, blackberry and violet infused nose and with beautifully integrated spice on the lively, black fruit dominant palate. A drink now Malbec, lacking the tannin structure for a long life, but a well balanced, food-friendly wine that would pair nicely with spicy, grilled meats.
Full Review


Rust Wine Co. 2018 Gamay - $23
A beautifully balanced Gamay with both playful andsubstantive characters; candied fruits, tangy citrus peel, smoky violets, velvety red fruit, caramelized onions, Christmas cake spices, mild licorice and plenty of body and texture. Should make an excellent companion to Summer social fare, especially sweet'n'smoky ribs or BBQ chicken.
Full Review


Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2016 Merlot - $24
A solid Merlot for all occasions with a pleasing, fruit-forward leaning balance of ripe, dark berry, dark cherry, tobacco, Nutella and sweet oak and spice characters. Dry, full bodied and lively with light, fine tannins and the perception of sweetness thanks to the prominent berry and cherry flavours. Ready to go now with your favourite BBQ dishes.
Full Review


Fairview Cellars 2016 Mad Cap Red - $28-30
Fairview's Madcap Red is a blend of (roughly) 50% Merlot and (mostly) equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from contracted vineyards in the Southern Okanagan Valley. Though an early drinking wine with approachable tannins, this blend will hold and evolve in your cellar, should you choose  to put one or two away.
Full Review


Kaiken 2015 Ultra Malbec - $30-32
A dense and dark Malbec, very 'broody' on both the licorice'n'cassis scented nose and the ultra-concentrated palate where flavours of black plums, blackberries, wild herbs and plenty of spice are supported nicely by dusty, fine tannins and wild-berry acidity.
Full Review