If the wine in this week's Featured Wines column tickle your fancy, you can order them directly from Jordan by email (JCarrier@everythingwine.ca) or find him in the Vintage Room of Everything Wine's newest location River District in South Vancouver (8570 River District Crossing).
Cab!
(Sung to the tune of
the theme song of Shaft)
Who’s the
thick-skinned grape that’s a hit with all the folks who rate? (Cab!) You’re
darn right.
Who has the tannin
that could do a lesser man in? (Cab!) Cab you dig it?
Who’s got body so
mighty, it slays all other varieties? (Cab!) Right on.
It’s a complicated
grape, but no one understands it like…
Honestly I’m
surprised you let me get this far, my apologies to all those who are still
reading this email. Here are a few 2014 vintage Cabernet-based wines from the
U.S. and France:
Joseph Phelps 2014 Insignia, Napa Valley
One of Napa’s Crown Princes, from the middle of the
region’s golden streak of vintages, ironically elevated by the long drought. I
had the opportunity to taste this vintage alongside the previous 2013, and the
differences are slight but noticeable. The ’13 has a more friendly fruit weight
but the ’14 is structured, dense and timeless, perhaps due to the rare omission
of Merlot in that year’s blend. As close as Insignia has come to the “classic
Napa” style in some time, with chocolate and coffee notes bracing the “Night Of
A Thousand Berries” nose that is so characteristically Phelps. 2014 is
Motorhead compared with 2013’s Elton John, focused and hardcore, not really
caring what you think of it… yet. Another Insignia for the ages. 97 points
Vinous, 97 points James Suckling, 96 points Robert Parker, 4 6-packs available,
$354.99 +tax
Sheridan 2014 “L’Orage”
Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, Washington State
I’m now conditioned to
salivate every time I see a 2014 Washington wine, but L’Orage additionally
brings a kind of Rutherford-y thickness to the flinty structure usually
prominent in Washington Cabs. Blended with a nano-smidge of Cabernet Franc,
this beast is all sourced from owner/winemaker Scott Greer’s hilltop estate in
the Yakima Valley where, if the finish of this wine is any indication, he must
also produce rocket launchers. There is nothing restrained or conservative
about the nose and body - dark berry
preserves stirred with cinnamon sticks and pipe tobacco baked into a weird pie
- the “classic Washington” vibes only enter at the end, where the fine tannins
try to contain the glycerin, the same way a kiddie pool tries to contain a
bunch of otters. Wondrous stuff, this. 96 points Robert Parker, 3 6-packs
available, $73.99 +tax
Chateau Landiras
2014, Graves, Bordeaux
Ok, I’m cheating because this is a little over half
Merlot, but the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend punches well above its
percentage and commands the nose, bursting with cassis, licorice, kirsch and
fresh redcurrants. The lift and tannic structure on the finish reveal the youth
of the vintage (the French would call this finish “crunchy” because they are
French), but Landiras, a new-ish winery started by Bordeaux architect Michel
Pelisse, can drink well now with food, or cellar for another decade. Terrific
value on this, with a body to match. We’ll be pouring this on Saturday at 3pm
in the River District Vintage Room if you’d like to try it (we’ll also be
pouring a few other Bordeaux wines TBA). 95 points Decanter, Platinum Medal
Decanter World Wine Awards, 10 cases available, $42.99 +tax
