JCarrier@everythingwine.ca
Bordeaux and the Value of Perspective
by Jordan Carrier
The past little while saw the release of 2012 Bordeaux in BC. For the first time that I can remember, private stores like Everything Wine were completely excluded from obtaining any of the wines, at least the ones that the BCLDB was carrying. To be honest, I’d be more upset if we were talking about 2009 or 2010 or even upcoming 2014, but I wasn’t planning on grabbing much 2012 anyway so I largely carried on eating my donut. Many of you had asked for my thoughts on the vintage, however, so I offer this analogy based on tasting the barrel samples a couple of years ago:
The 2012 vintage is a Steven Seagal movie. Your expectations going into the experience will be met but not exceeded. You will anticipate fist fights, one liners and bad guys shooting rounds of machine gun fire without hitting anything, and all of those boxes will be checked, but as soon as the movie is finished you will forget about it. There will be no profound silence on the drive home as you contemplate life from a new perspective. At least 2012 delivers, if the joyless 2013 vintage were a Seagal movie it would consist solely of Steven reading from a textbook on how to wipe counters.
Inexpensive to medium-priced 2012s deliver Bordeaux structure and higher than normal fruit, and they are very pleasing to drink. Medium-priced to high-end 2012s deliver Bordeaux structure and higher than normal fruit, and they are very pleasing to drink. My advice to collectors is to buy cheap and drink soon for 2012, by all means continue your verticals if you are building them, but don’t go nuts on the classified growths or high-end bottles. Favour Right Bank over Left. This is a fun, place-holder vintage.
Our Bordeaux strategy here in the Vintage Room is one of clearer, if forced, perspective: we populate our shelves with classic, proven vintages that you can drink sooner or cellar more confidently because there aren’t any surprises. If I could use another analogy: we are Elton John’s Greatest Hits, as opposed to whatever that new thing he just put out is. All of our “new” Bordeaux is already classic, its awesomeness having already been determined by consensus. Here are some wines (with somewhat briefer descriptions) that recently arrived into our Morgan Crossing location (my home base):
LEFT BANK
2003 Chateau Latour, Pauillac
What Cabernet Sauvignon would become if it were bit by a radioactive spider. Called “the sexiest Latour ever made”, ripe but not over-ripe, from a generally low-acid vintage. No, I haven’t tried it but if you buy one, I’m coming over. One of the 5 First Growths. 100 points Robert Parker, $2.024.99 +tax
What Cabernet Sauvignon would become if it were bit by a radioactive spider. Called “the sexiest Latour ever made”, ripe but not over-ripe, from a generally low-acid vintage. No, I haven’t tried it but if you buy one, I’m coming over. One of the 5 First Growths. 100 points Robert Parker, $2.024.99 +tax
2011 Pauillac de Latour, Pauillac
The 3rd wine of Chateau Latour, a tad less Cab and more Merlot, comprises about a quarter of the Chateau’s entire production. As though a young attractive blackberry met a nice pencil and went dancing in a field. Medium bodied, very well put together. $153.99 +tax
The 3rd wine of Chateau Latour, a tad less Cab and more Merlot, comprises about a quarter of the Chateau’s entire production. As though a young attractive blackberry met a nice pencil and went dancing in a field. Medium bodied, very well put together. $153.99 +tax
2009 Pauillac de Latour, Pauilla
Everything I just said about the 2011 except a bit riper and a little better because 2009. $162.99 +tax
Everything I just said about the 2011 except a bit riper and a little better because 2009. $162.99 +tax
2000 Chateau d’Armailhac, Pauillac
A 5th Growth owned by the Mouton Rothschild family. Pretty much smack dab in the middle of its window, showing currant and mocha and tasting like the best idea you’ve had in a long time. $209.99 +tax
2013 Y d’Yquem, Bordeaux SuperieurA dry white Bordeaux from the makers of Chateau d’Yquem, the most famous Sauternes in the world. Predominantly Semillon with Sauvignon Blanc in a supporting role. Rich and creamy with fun tropical fruits bursting out, all kept in place by the paternal impatience of acidity. 96 points Wine Spectator, $264.99 +tax
2005 Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estephe
Just starting to enter its window, this still probably needs to nap for a couple more years, but it is starting to make friends. A 4th Growth owned by the Pontet-Canet family, known for producing backwards steely time capsules that need at least a decade before they can even speak English. A big boy with currant and incense notes and lots of attitude. $143.99 +tax
Just starting to enter its window, this still probably needs to nap for a couple more years, but it is starting to make friends. A 4th Growth owned by the Pontet-Canet family, known for producing backwards steely time capsules that need at least a decade before they can even speak English. A big boy with currant and incense notes and lots of attitude. $143.99 +tax
2010 Chateau Beaumont Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc
Only available in Magnums. Stemmy blackberry, tobacco and chestnut towards a medium body and smooth tannins that won’t put up a fight. Interesting to see how this will cellar, because it’s ready to drink but the larger format would carry it forward a lot further. $85.99 +tax
Only available in Magnums. Stemmy blackberry, tobacco and chestnut towards a medium body and smooth tannins that won’t put up a fight. Interesting to see how this will cellar, because it’s ready to drink but the larger format would carry it forward a lot further. $85.99 +tax
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